The Tulip Stitch is a lovely crochet stitch pattern. You can use it to create a pretty accent in a design, like I did with this Tulip Stitch Hat Pattern, or you can use it to crochet an entire afghan. If you are working on an afghan made with squares you can also use it to crochet afghan squares. I have included written instructions for a few common sizes of afghan squares in my post below.
If you’d like to make a square in a different size or even a full size blanket, it is pretty easy to calculate. Just message me with your stitches per inch, using the yarn and hook you are using for your project and double crochet stitches and I will let you know how many stitches you need for your starting chain.
Crochet Tulip Stitch Afghan Square Instructions
Supplies
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- Yarn: Chic Sheep by Marly Bird. Medium Weight Yarn [4]. 3.5 oz / 100 g. 186 yd / 170 m. 100% Mercerized Merino Wool. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, lay flat to dry.
- Colors: Color A: Linen, Color B: Polo and Color C: Mai Tai. The yellow used in the stitch tutorial is Mimosa.
- Hook: 5 mm (H) Crochet Hook (I used Furls Streamline in Ebony)
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker
Difficulty Level
Easy-Intermediate
Finished Size
For a 4 inch square: Chain 17.
For a 6 inch square: Chain 26.
For a 7 inch square: Chain 29.
For an 8 inch square: Chain 32.
For a 12 inch square: Chain 50.
Gauge
approximately 16 dc per 4 inches (4 dc per inch)
approximately 1.5 inches for each repeat section of R5-7
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
beg – beginning
ch – chain
ch1sp – chain 1 space
ch2sp – chain 2 space
dc – double crochet
pc – popcorn stitch
R – row
RS – Right Side (“good or pretty side you want to show”)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
WS – wrong side (back of project)
* to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
() – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space
Special Stitches
Popcorn (pc)
The popcorn stitch we use in this pattern is made up of 5 dc. Crochet 5 dc stitches into the specified stitch. Remove your hook from the loop left on it from the last dc you made and insert your hook under the top of the first dc stitch you made (under both the front and back loops). Now insert the hook back through the loop from the last dc (the loop you took off your hook). Pull that loop through the first dc to complete the popcorn stitch.
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- 1
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- 2
Standing Double Crochet (standing dc)
- Starting with your slip knot on your hook, yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch. Yarn over the hook.
- Pull up one loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 of the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.
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Starting with your slip knot on your hook, yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch. Yarn over the hook.
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Pull up one loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 of the loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on your hook.
Helpful Tutorials
Helpful Video Tutorials
You can watch the Invisible Join technique demonstrated in this video at this specific video frame: Invisible Join Video
Notes
- Ch 3 counts as 1 dc when worked at the beg of the row. This means you do not work into the st that falls beneath it.
- *If you do not wish to use a standing dc, please work a sl st join and ch 3 instead. This will count as 1 dc.*
- Finish off: ch 1, cut yarn and pull the yarn end through the loop
- Sl st does not count as a stitch.
- Stitch Multiple: 3+2
- Color A: Linen, Color B: Polo and Color C: Mai Tai.
Stitch Counts for Rows (so you can check your stitches!)
For a 4 inch square: R1: 17 dc. R2: 5 sets of (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) and 2 dc. R3: 5 tulips (pc), 2 dc, 2 ch1sp and 5 ch2sp
For a 6 inch square: R1: 26 dc. R2: 8 sets of (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) and 2 dc. R3: 8 tulips (pc), 2 dc, 2 ch1sp and 8 ch2sp
For a 7 inch square: R1: 29 dc. R2: 9 sets of (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) and 2 dc. R3: 9 tulips (pc), 2 dc, 2 ch1sp and 9 ch2sp
For an 8 inch square: R1: 32 dc. R2: 10 sets of (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) and 2 dc. R3: 10 tulips (pc), 2 dc, 2 ch1sp and 10 ch2sp
For a 12 inch square: R1: 50 dc. R2: 16 sets of (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) and 2 dc. R3: 16 tulips (pc), 2 dc, 2 ch1sp and 16 ch2sp
Crochet Tulip Stitch Afghan Square Pattern
With Color A
For a 4 inch square: Chain 17.
For a 6 inch square: Chain 26.
For a 7 inch square: Chain 29.
For an 8 inch square: Chain 32.
For a 12 inch square: Chain 50.
R1: RS: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the fifth chain from the hook. 1 dc in each rem ch across. Finish off Color A. Turn.
With Color B
R2: WS: Join yarn with 1 standing dc stitch in the first dc (*see notes*). Sk 1 dc, work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next dc. *Sk 2 dc, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next dc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last 2 dc. Sk 1 dc and work 1 dc in the last dc. Finish off Color B. Turn.
With Color C
R3: RS: Join yarn with 1 standing dc in the first dc. Sk the next dc. *1 pc in ch1sp, sk 1 dc, ch 2, sk 1 dc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last ch1sp. Work 1 pc in ch1sp, sk 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the last dc. Finish off Color C.
Do not turn.
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- Step 1: Join new yarn with a standing dc (or sl st join and ch 3). Ch 1.
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- Step 2: Make 5 dc in the ch1sp.
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- Step 3: Remove hook from the loop and insert it through the top of the first dc you made in the ch1sp.
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- Step 4: Insert the hook back through the loop.
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- Step 5: Pull the loop through the stitch on your hook and ch 2.
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- Repeat across to the last ch1sp. 1 pc in the last ch1sp, chain 1, 1 dc in the last dc.
With Color A
R4: RS: Join yarn with 1 standing dc in the first dc. Work 1 dc in the ch1sp. 1 dc in pc. *2 dc in the next ch2sp, 1 dc in pc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last ch1sp. 1 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in the last dc. Finish off Color A. Turn.
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- Top view of the dc being worked into the pc stitch.
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- Front view of the pc being worked into the dc.
With Color B
R5: WS: Join yarn with 1 standing dc stitch in the first dc (*see notes*). Sk 1 dc, work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next dc. *Sk 2 dc, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the next dc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last 2 dc. Sk 1 dc and work 1 dc in the last dc. Finish off Color B. Turn.
With Color C
R6: RS: Join yarn with 1 standing dc in the first dc. Sk the next dc. *1 pc in ch1sp, sk 1 dc, ch 2, sk 1 dc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last ch1sp. Work 1 pc in ch1sp, sk 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the last dc. Finish off Color C. Do not turn.
With Color A
R7: RS: Join yarn with 1 standing dc in the first dc. Work 1 dc in the ch1sp. 1 dc in pc. *2 dc in the next ch2sp, 1 dc in pc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last ch1sp. 1 dc in ch1sp, 1 dc in the last dc. Finish off Color A. Turn.
Rep R5-R7
For a 4 inch square: 0 times
For a 6 inch square: 1 time
For a 7 inch square: 2 times
For an 8 inch square: 3 times
For a 12 inch square: 5 times
Edging
Work sc stitches evenly around the outside of the square. Work 3 sc in each corner.
This video demonstrates how to make the stitch when it is being worked in rounds. You can see how to make the popcorn stitch though if you’d like to take a look:
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𝗡𝗲𝘄! 2021 Ready or Not Scarf - Lacy Crochet Scarf Pattern
If you can chain, single crochet and double crochet, you can make my scarf featured in this month’s crochet along!
The 2021 Ready or Not Scarf is my June Scarf of the Month Crochet Along (CAL) pattern. This is an easy crochet pattern that can be crocheted with Light Weight Yarn [3] and a 5 mm (H) hook.
𝗬𝗮𝗿𝗻 = Caron Cotton Ripple Cakes [3]
𝗛𝗼𝗼𝗸 = 5 mm (H) Furls Streamline Swirl Cookies N’ Cream
𝘚𝘦𝘦𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘵𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘱𝘰𝘴𝘵 𝘰𝘯 𝘍𝘢𝘤𝘦𝘣𝘰𝘰𝘬? 𝗛𝗲𝗿𝗲'𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗱𝗶𝗿𝗲𝗰𝘁 𝗹𝗶𝗻𝗸 𝘁𝗼 𝗺𝘆 𝗽𝗼𝘀𝘁: https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2021/06/2021-lacy-crochet-scarf-pattern.html
If you share your finished project on Instagram, share it with #ODCMakers so I can see it too!](https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/wp-content/plugins/instagram-feed/img/placeholder.png)
Hi Brenda, Yes this is correct.
I’d like to make a blanket, but would like more space between flower rows. I’m thinking I should have an odd number of rows between the flower rows so that the “right side” of the blanket is always the flower side. (For the same look). Is this correct?
Hi Nikki, I don’t think the mini skeins are going to always be enough for all of the rows – the rows with the actual tulips will take much more than the dc rows and set-up rows for the tulips. The first row (starting chain with the return) will take more than the other similar rows too. I may be wrong though. I have to admit I am terrible at determining how much yardage per stitch worked without working it myself. What I would suggest trying is if you have the big pack with all the mini skeins in it choose some that you won’t be using (that the colors aren’t your favorites) and then weigh them before you do the row and just work a small sample – like a 4 inch or 6 inch square size.
So do Row 1 (weigh ball 1 before and after) in color A, then Row 2 in color B (weigh the ball before and after you work the row), etc.
Then you will know exactly how much yarn you are using for each sample row size. This makes it easier to decide how much yarn you are using for each ‘stitch’ and then you can say I want a 60 inch width on this blanket and multiple what you used for 4 inches (so 4 x 15 = 60) for each row to see if you will have enough yarn for each of the rows in the 50 g skeins. It will also help you decide how many stitches you need for a 60 inch width blanket using the yarn and hook you choose.
Quick tip for starting chain lengths – crochet a chain to the width you want plus about 2 inches then work back across that chain following the pattern until you reach the width you want the blanket to be (less whatever you are adding to border your project) – so say 58 inches if you want a 1 inch edging on each side. Then when you reach 58 inches finish the repeat you are working on just before 58 inches and begin Row 2. You can snip and unravel that starting chain you didn’t use and weave in that end (just be sure to snip it about 2 inches away from the blanket edge so you have enough left over to weave in). Then you don’t need to count your chain stitches. I find it a very easy way to start my blanket projects now –
I hope this helps a bit.
All the best, Rhondda
Hello! I’m making a blanket with your pattern and would love some assistance in figuring out my starting chain. I’m using Scheepjes Softfun yarn; I have Lace and Pine in 50 gram skeins for the first two colors, and a 12 pack of pastel minis, which are 20 g each, for the tulip bulbs. I don’t know how far the mini skeins go, so that’s part of my consideration.
I’m currently using a US G6/4.00mm hook (as mentioned on the yarn) though I could probably switch to 5mm. I tried to do a mock up of the first few rows with 4mm, so if I understand how to measure this, I’m getting 4-5 stitches per inch.
Ideally the blanket will be between 45 – 60 inches across and one mini skein will be enough for a row (or 2?). Let me know if you think this is unrealistic!
I also am planning on adding more “white space” between the rows of tulips, so either two rows of dc or two rows of hdc (I saw the two rows of hdc on another person’s project and I liked the additional space between flower rows).
Thank you for your help and for this pattern!
Hi Lorraine, If you use the Print button at the top of my post it opens a new window and Printfriendly provides you with the option to click on anything you don’t want to include in your copy to delete it – it also allows you to remove or resize images and text. It will email you a copy, create a PDF for you to save or Print a file for you based on your choices. It is free too. Hope this helps! Rhondda
I would love to make this but i can’t print all the color sections in between the written pattern. While i do appreciate all your work it would likely cost me a fortune to include all those colored parts. Is there a way to avoid printing all that and just get the pattern instructions like row 1, row 2, row 3 etc. Do i have to hand copy them?
Hi Joan, The pattern is crocheted with the following stitch multiple: Stitch Multiple: 3+2
I used Medium Weight Yarn [4] and a 5 mm (H) hook. My gauge was 4 stitches per inch.
If you want to make a Queen Size Afghan measuring 66 inches by 84 inches (so it hangs over the edge a bit) (bed measures 60 inches by 80 inches), so if you are working width-wise, you want to make a starting chain of 266. This is if your gauge gives you 4 stitches in each inch, with the yarn and hook you are using.
Hope this helps!
Rhondda
I would like to make this for my daughter’s queen bed as one blanket, not squares. Which size hook would you recommend and # of starting stitches? I always have problems joining squares so I prefer one large project.
Hi Ashlie, The 12 inch squares will require less assembly so will make for a quicker project. It will also leave you withe less ends to sew in. I think I would work with the 12 inch squares personally. Here are some other options in case you would prefer smaller squares:
For a 4 inch square: Chain 17.
For a 6 inch square: Chain 26.
For a 7 inch square: Chain 29.
For an 8 inch square: Chain 32.
For a 12 inch square: Chain 50.
All the best, Rhondda
I am thinking of making this for my mom for mother’s day. I am thinking of making multiple squares with each square having different color flowers. What size should I make the squares? I would like to make a throw size blanket.
This is just so beautiful! Your instructions are awesome!
Hi Debbie, For a 36 inch square you would need to chain 144 stitches plus 2 for the starting chain (so total of 146 chs). For a 40 inch square you would need to chain 159 sts, plus 2 for the starting chain (total of 161 chains to start). Hope this helps! Rhondda
Using an H hook how many stitches would you need to make a baby afghan 36 – 40 inches square?