The Oceania Hat Pattern is available in one-size only and I made this hat specifically for me. I had some yarn leftover from making this month’s Scarf of the Month, the Oceania Cowl and I whipped up this hat for me. I will not be making this available in other sizes at this time. I did however write down the instructions in case someone else would like a matching hat to go with their cowl.
This hat is sized to fit most adults.
You will need the yarn leftover from the one ball you used to make the Oceania Cowl and a 4 mm (G) crochet hook for the ribbed band and a 5 mm (H) crochet hook for the remainder of the hat pattern. This pattern will work up in a couple of hours. Have fun 🙂
- Yarn: Lion Brand Yarns Mandala Yarn; Color: Spirit; 5.3 oz / 150 g; 590 yd / 540 m. 100% Acrylic Yarn. Machine Washable and dryable. Light  Yarn.
- Hook: 5 mm Clover Amour
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)
EASY – simple stitches are used – you will need to keep the space between the sc and the next dc consistent throughout the entire project to maintain your gauge
Please take the time to read the notes – this hat is worked back and forth in JOINED rows.
Band: 18 inches long without being stretched
Circumference of hat: 22 inches without being stretched
Hat Height: 9.5 inches
To fit Adult (medium/large)
2 rows per inch and 0.8 stitch sets per inch (approximately 3 sets in 2.5 inches)
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.
US Terminology used
bl – back loop
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
R – row/round
RS – right side (you may wish to mark this side to remember which side faces out!)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Denotes stitches worked in one stitch or chain space (or special notes I have added to help you understand something)
 – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Helpful Video Tutorials
- This project is worked flat to create the band and the first 2 rows of the hat pattern; then it is worked joined rows. This means I will ask you to slip stitch to join the hat sides together but then turn and proceed to work the next ROW back along the stitches you just crocheted.
- The initial ch 3 counts as 1 dc.
- Do not count the slip stitches as stitches.
- The edges of the ribbed band will be seamed together to form the hat band so leave a yarn tail when you begin to allow you to do this easily.
- Stitch Pattern is worked as a multiple of 4
Oceania Hat Pattern Instructions
Worked flat. Using the 4 mm (G).
R1: Ch 11, beg in 2nd ch from the hook and work 1 sc in the bl of each ch across, ch 1, turn. 
R2: 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 9 sts, 1 sc in both loops of the last st, ch 1, turn. 
R3-R93: Rep R2
Do not finish off; rotate your work to beg working along the row edges of the band.
Worked flat. Using the 5 mm (H).
R1: RS: Work 93 sc evenly across the top edge of the band. 
R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) in the first st (the st at the base of the ch 3). *Sk 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) in the next st**. Rep from * to ** across. Turn. [24 sets of (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc)]
From this point forward you will only work into the ch2sp. Sk all other stitches unless specified. At the end of R3 you are asked to slip stitch to the other end of the row to join the sides together – sort of a ‘seam as you go’ method for the hat. You are still working the hat back and forth in rows, even though they are now joined. Do not begin working in rounds after the join, remember to TURN and work back along the same stitches you just completed.
R3: Sl st into the ch2sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) all in the same ch2sp. *(2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) in the next ch2sp**. Rep from * to ** across. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. TURN. [24 sets of (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc)]
R4: Sl st into the first ch2sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) all in the same ch2sp. *(2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc) in the next ch2sp**. Rep from * to ** across. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. TURN. [24 sets of (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc)]
R5-R12: Rep R4
For the next decrease row try to maintain your gauge as best you can. Also note, it is a ch 1 this row not a ch 2.
R13: Sl st into the first ch2sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, ch 1) in the same ch2sp. 1 sc in the next ch2sp. *(2 dc, ch 1) in the next ch2sp; 1 sc in the next ch2sp**. Rep from * to ** across. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. TURN. [12 sets of (2 dc, ch 1, 1 sc)]
R14 – R15: Rep R4. [12 sets of (2 dc, ch 2, 1 sc)]
R16: Rep R13. [6 sets of (2 dc, ch 1, 1 sc)]
R17: Work 1 sc into the first ch2sp, ch 1. *Work 1 sc into the next ch1sp, ch 1**. Rep from * to ** around. [6 sc, 6 ch1sp].
Finish off leaving a long tail to allow you to weave your yarn end through the remaining sts and cinch closed. For help closing your hat please view this tutorial I created to show you how to simply close hats and mittens.
Simple Closing Method for Hats and Mittens A Tutorial
Once you have closed the top of the hat, weave in any remaining ends before proceeding to the Finishing section below.
I seamed my hat band and the first two rows of the main hat together using a whip stitch seam. If you are unfamiliar with this technique, please see this tutorial: WhipStitch Seam
If you would like to explore other joining options please see this post:
Oombawka Design’s Scarf of the Month Club Patterns from 2016 are now available in a single downloadable PDF document!
You can purchase the full Pattern Pack including all 12 Scarf of the Month Club Patterns designed by Oombawka Design, right here: