I love bags…crochet bags, thirty-one bags, reusable grocery bags – can anyone really have TOO many bags? Not I! Here is my most recent bag…this one I have plans for but I suspect like many of the others it will become my next crochet project bag 😉 I have included an inner pocket to put my keys or cell phone inside – it also has a pretty little flowery ‘insert’ stitch pattern at the midpoint. I didn’t want it to be too low though – I wanted to be sure small things would NOT fall out of my bag. If you don’t like the flowery bit it is easy to skip – you can simply replace it with a few (three) rounds of half double crochet.
This bag is crocheted with 1 single ball of Caron Cakes Yarn.
The edging around on the bag is made using a crab stitch (reverse single crochet) which is a stitch that did take me a little bit of time to master. If you have not yet mastered this technique I have linked to a tutorial my friend Kinga did for her version which is much easier 🙂
Tropical Paradise Crossbody Bag
- Yarn: Caron Cakes; 80% Acrylic/20% Wool; (7.1 oz / 200 g; 383 yds / 350 m); Medium Weight . Color: Funfetti
- Hook: 5 mm (H) Clover Amour
- Closure: Milward Buttons 0548 D (1.75 inches long)
13 inches wide
9 inches tall at center not counting straps
11 hdc in 3 inches
6 rounds hdc in 2 inches
US Terminology used
2-dc cluster – is the same as dc2tog but all worked in one stitch or chain space
3-dc cluster – is the same as dc3tog but all worked in one stitch or chain space
ch – chain
ch1sp – chain 1 space
ch2sp – chain 2 space
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
R – row/round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
 – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
The ch 2 is listed at the beg of each row or round because it counts as a stitch for the round it is written in.
Tropical Paradise Crossbody Bag Pattern Instructions
Making the Inside Pocket (optional)
R1: Ch 20, 1 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each rem ch across. Ch 1, rotate your work to add 1 hdc in the edge of the row, rotate your work and crochet 1 hdc in the rem loop of each ch across, ch 1, rotate your work to add 1 hdc in the edge of the row. 
We will now be working around this section in continuous rounds. From this point on you may want to use a stitch marker to mark your position.
R2: 1 hdc in each st around. 
R3-R10: Rep R2
R11: 1 hdc in each of the next 5, sk all rem sts, turn. 
R12: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), 1 hdc in each of the next 19 hdc. Finish off and weave in ends. 
Making the bag
Starting at the bottom of the bag and working in rows:
R1: Ch 30. Beg in the 3rd ch from the hook (the sk 2 chs count as 1 hdc) and work 1 hdc in each st across. Turn. 
R2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), 1 hdc in each st across. Turn. 
R3 – R12: Rep R2
We will now continue by working around the rectangle you created in rounds. From this point on you may want to use a stitch marker to mark your position.
R1: Start here: 1 hdc in the corner; 13 hdc evenly across the side edge (row ends); 1 hdc in the corner, 29 hdc evenly across the bottom edge; 1 hdc in the corner, 13 hdc evenly along the side edge (row ends); 1 hdc in the corner and 29 hdc across R12. 
We are working in continuous rounds which means there is no slip stitch to join and no ch 2 at the beg of every round.
Note: If you would prefer to have the seam created by the sl st to join and ch 2 please feel free to use it but remember the ch 2 will count as your first st; so do not work a 2nd hdc in the base of it or else you will increase the number of stitches on every round.
R2: 1 hdc in each st around. 
R3-R10: Rep R2
For R11-R13 we are working in rows. You will be told when to turn. See the stitch pattern video tutorial.
R11: 1 sc in the next st, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc plus ch 3). Work a 2-dc cluster in the third ch from the hook; sk the first 3 hdc and work 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, sk the next hdc, work a 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, ch 3, work 2-dc cluster in the third ch from hook, sk next 2 hdc; 1 dc in the next hdc. *Ch 3, work 2-dc cluster in the third ch from the hook, sk the next 2 hdc, work a 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, sk the next hdc, work a 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, ch 3, work 2-dc cluster in the third ch from the hook, sk the next 2 hdc, 1 dc in the next hdc**. Rep from * to **, sk the final hdc and end by working a sl st in the initial ch3sp. Turn.
R12: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc plus ch 2). You beg this row by working in the 3-dc cluster. Work (3-dc cluster, ch 1, 3-dc cluster) in the 3-dc cluster, ch 2, sk the next chsp; 1 dc in the next dc. *Ch 2, sk the next chsp, work (3-dc cluster, ch 1, 3-dc cluster) in the next 3-dc cluster; ch 2, sk the next chsp, 1 dc in the next dc**. Rep from * to ** across, ending with a sl st in the initial ch5sp. Turn.
R13: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). *2 hdc in ch2sp, 1 hdc in the next 3-dc cluster, 1 hdc in the next ch1sp, 1 hdc in next 3-dc cluster, 2 hdc in next ch2sp, 1 hdc in next dc**. Rep from * to ** across, ending with a sl st to the top of the initial ch2 to join. 
We are working in continuous rounds starting in R14.
R14: 1 hdc in each st around. 
R15-R19: Rep R14; finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends.
Place your bag on a flat surface and find the ‘approximate’ middle stitch on the front and back of your bag. Place a stitch marker in these two spots (or tie a piece of yarn in a different color).
You will have 44 stitches on each side (from point A to B); 22 on the front of the bag and 22 on the back of the bag.
Next we will begin working one side (left) in rows, back and forth to create half the strap.
R1: Rejoin your yarn in the middle stitch with 1 hdc. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 43 sts. Ch 1, turn. 
R2: Sk 1 hdc; 1 hdc in each of the next 42 hdc, sk 1 hdc, ch 1, turn. 
R3 – R22: Rep R2 (you will have 4 hdc remaining)
R23: 1 sc in each hdc across, ch 1, turn. 
R24-76: Rep R23. Finish off leaving a 8-10 inch yarn end for assembly.
Rep instructions for Strap 1.
R1: Ch 6, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. 
R2: 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn. 
R3: 1 sc in the first sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, 1 sc in the last sc. Ch 1, turn. 
R4: 1 sc in the first sc, 3 sc in the ch3sp, 1 sc in the last sc; ch 1, turn. 
R5: 1 sc in each sc across; ch 1, turn. 
R6-17: Rep R5
Now edge the closure by working 1 sc in each row end, each corner and each sc around the entire closure; finish off leaving a tail for assembly (whipstitching to bag).
Whipstitch the two ends of your strap together securely. Finish off and weave in ends.
Edging Side 1
R1: Join your yarn with a sc in the first hdc from R1 of Strap 1. Work 1 sc in each row end and each sk hdc around the entire strap on one side of the bag.
Edging Side 2
R1: Join your yarn with a sc in the first hdc from R1 of Strap 2. Work 1 sc in each row end and each sk hdc around the entire strap on one side of the bag.
Whipstitch the inner pocket into the inside back of the bag at the very top.
Whipstitch the closure to the outside back of the bag approximately 1 inch down from center back at the mid point.
Attach the button securely approximately 1 inch down from the center front at the midpoint.