Warm Winter Ski Masks Free Pattern
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Darla and Drew finally outgrew their Balaclava Hats! Which means I needed to make them new ski masks just in case our super cold and windy winter weather does decide to arrive this year!
I decided to make these a bit longer than what might be considered “normal” because I wanted extra ‘hat’ length to tuck into the neckline Darla’s and Drew’s coats…a bit like a combined hat and cowl. If you want them shorter just eliminate 2 rounds for every inch shorter you wish to make the ski mask.
If you want to make beanies instead work up until the round you would skip chain stitches to create the eye holes in the size of your choice.
These hats can be folded up into a beanie style for when you do not wish to wear them as a ski mask too!
The eye hole will stretch to allow the face to be uncovered if you want it to be!
This is a very easy pattern to crochet!
Supplies
- Yarn: Lion Brand Yarns Lion’s Pride Woolspun. 100 g (3.5 oz); 127 yds (116 m). Bulky [5] Weight Yarn. (Colorway: Orchid and Black) – 2 balls are required for Sizes 3 years and larger (I have also made 6 of these using Loops & Threads Charisma the stitches per inch remain the same but by the end you do have a little extra length so double check the height of the hat you are making and omit 1 or 2 rows as needed – unless you don’t mind it being a bit longer!)
- Hook 6.0 mm (J)
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)
Difficulty Level
EASY
Finished Size
Please see each of the sizes listed below in the Pattern Instructions for measurements.
Gauge
10 dc = approximately 4 inches
7 rows = approximately 4 inches
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
MR – Magic Ring
R – row/round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Helpful Tutorials
Invisible Join / Invisible Finish
Changing Colours on the Last Yarn Over
Notes:
- do not count the sl st as a stitch
- do not count the ch 2 at the beginning of a round as a stitch
- the first st of each round is worked in the same st as you sl st to join
Warm Winter Ski Masks
Pattern Instructions
Remember: The first st of each round is worked in the same st as you sl st to join
Size: 6-12 months
To Fit: 18 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 12.5 inches
R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 5 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]
R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]
R6-R8: rep R5 [41]
R9: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 13 sts. Ch 14. Skip 14 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 14 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [29]
R10: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 14 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]
Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.
R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]
R13-19: Rep R12; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [41]
Size: 12-24 months
To Fit: 19 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 13.5 inches
R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 8 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]
R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]
R6-R9: rep R5 [44]
R10: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 14 sts. Ch 15. Skip 15 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [29]
R11: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 15 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]
Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.
R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]
R13-21: Rep R12; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [44]
Size: 3-6 years
To Fit: 20 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 14 inches
R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 10 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
R6-R10: rep R5 [46]
R11: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Ch 15. Skip 15 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [31]
R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 15 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.
R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
R14-22: Rep R13; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [46]
Size: 7-10 years
To Fit: 20 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 15 inches
R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 10 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
R6-R10: rep R5 [46]
R11: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Ch 15. Skip 15 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [31]
R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 15 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.
R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]
R14-24: Rep R13; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [46]
Size: Adult Small
To Fit: 21 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 16 inches
R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]
R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. 1 dc in each rem st around. [49]
R6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [49]
R7-R12: rep R6 [49]
R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Ch 17. Skip 17 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [32]
R14: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 17 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [49]
Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.
R15: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [49]
R16-26: Rep R15; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [49]
Size: Adult Medium
To Fit: 22 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 16.5 inches
R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]
R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** 3 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [51]
R6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [51]
R7-R12: rep R6 [51]
R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 17 sts. Ch 17. Skip 17 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 17 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [34]
R14: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 17 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [51]
Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.
R15: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [51]
R16-27: Rep R15; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [51]
Size: Adult Large
To Fit: 23 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 17 inches
R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]
R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** 6 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [54]
R6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [54]
R7-R13: rep R6 [54]
R14: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 18 sts. Ch 18. Skip 18 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 18 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R15: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 18 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [54]
Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.
R16: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [54]
R17-28: Rep R16; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [54]
Happy crocheting!
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Hi Xavier, you only need to work that * to ** the one time. Then 1 stitch in each rem stitch around. We are only adding 1 extra stitch for the round for a total of 49 stitches. Sorry for the confusion!
Adult small round 5, it gives the *’s to repeat but it doesn’t say how many times to repeat it?
Hi Christian, depending on how snug you’d like this you can work dc2tog stitches to adjust the neck. Remember it must still be able to make it over the head (stretch over the head) so you wouldn’t be able to decrease too many times. Each time you stretch it over the head it will pull the stitches looser around the neck. Depending on what fiber you are crocheting with it may not bounce back to the smaller neck size. You could work the rounds unjoined and turn at the end of each row for the neck section and then use a closure to keep it together. This would allow you to make it as narrow as you’d like essentially because the closure would be able to open to allow the head to fit inside. Hope this makes sense, R