Whimsical Balaclava Ski Hat Crochet Pattern
Yarn: Red Heart Heads Up Yarn (2 balls makes 1 hat)
Hook: 6.00 mm
Gauge: 5 dc sts = 2 inch; 2 rows of dc = 1.25 inch
This hat is worked in rounds. The slip stitch to join and chain-2 are not counted as stitches unless
specified in the written instructions. When joining at the end of each round skip over the chain-2 to sl
st into the first st of the round.
You may wish to work over the tails of your yarn to make this project even easier (less ends to sew in
later!).
I swing the tail of the yarn behind the work and crochet over it as I go – so I don’t have any yarn ends
to sew in afterwards.
Option: To make the colour changes less visible I recommend finishing off each colour and using an
invisible join before beginning the next round with a standing double crochet (or standing single crochet)
stitch. This take a little more work to do but will leave you with a more professional looking finish.
Abbreviations Used:
sc : single crochet
dc : double crochet
sl st : slip stitch
st : stitch
fdc : chainless foundation double crochet stitch
ch : chain
R : round
x : times to repeat
MC : main colour yarn
CC : contrast colour yarn
Tutorial to Help: fdc – Chainless Foundation Double Crochet Stitch
Click here for the: Toddler Whimsical Balaclava: Finished Size: fits 19″ to 20″ head circumference; height at back of head is 23 cm; height at front is 27
cm; width at eye level is 21 cm. Click here for the: Super Quick and Easy Flower Embellishment
Child – to fit head circumference of 21″; 11.5″ long
R1: Using your MC yarn, crochet 10 dc into a magic loop, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [10]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc into each st around, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [20]
R3: ch 2, (1 dc in the first st, 2 dc in the next st) 10 x, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [30]
R4: ch 2, (1 dc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 10 x, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to
join, do not finish off the MC yarn [40]
R5: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, *work over the tail of the CC yarn to secure
it in place* (1 sc in each of the first 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 5 x ,sl st to the 1st sc of the round
to join, do not finish off the CC yarn [45]
R6: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the 1st dc
of the round to join [45]
R7: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc
of the round to join, do not finish off the CC yarn [45]
R8: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the 1st dc
of the round to join [45]
R9 – 13: Repeat R8; do not finish off MC yarn at the end of R13 [45]
R14: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on the hook to ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to the first dc
of the round to join [45]
R15: Continuing with CC yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts,
ch 2, 1 sl st into the same st you just crocheted the last dc in;
1 sl st in each of the next 15 sts,
*1 sl st in the next st, ch 2, 1 dc* (*all into the same st)
1 dc in each of the next 14 sts
sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [45 – including the 15 sl st for the eye opening]
R16: Continuing with CC yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts.
Next you will work 15 fdc stitches: For the first fdc, begin in the space created by the ch2 (just before the sl st bit of the eye opening) of the previous round, (do not let the fdc sts twist as you work across!). Work 13 more fdc. For the last fdc st begin the st the same by inserting the hook into the fdc st prior, then insert the hook through the 1st dc st from the round below (the first st after the sl sts on the eye opening) before pulling up the loop to complete the st. This anchors the fdc in place.
Next, crochet 1 dc into the same st you just anchored the fdc into. Crochet 1 dc into each remaining st across, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join and finish off the CC yarn [45]
R17: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, crochet 1 sc in each of the first 12 sts, 1
dc in each of the next 21 sts; 1 sc in each of the final 12 sts [45]
R18-22: Repeat R15, Finish off (feel free to use the CC for the last round). [45]
Please note the length of the balaclava can be adjusted easily by adding, or skipping rounds after round
17.
Teen/Woman – to fit head circumference of 22-23″ and 13.5″ long
R1: Using your MC yarn, crochet 10 dc into a magic loop, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [10]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc into each st around, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [20]
R3: ch 2, (1 dc in the first st, 2 dc in the next st) 10 x, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [30]
R4: ch 2, (1 dc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 10 x, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join, do not finish off the MC yarn [40]
R5: ch 2, (1 dc in each of the first 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 10 x, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join, do not finish off the MC yarn [50]
R6: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, *work over the tail of the CC yarn to secure it in place* 1 sc in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join, do not finish off the CC yarn [50]
R7: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [50]
R8: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join, do not finish off the CC yarn [50]
R9: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [50]
R10 – 14: Repeat R8; do not finish off MC yarn at the end of R14 [50]
R15: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on the hook to ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to the first dc of the round to join [50]
R16: Continuing with CC yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts,
ch 2, 1 sl st into the same st you just crocheted the last dc in;
1 sl st in each of the next 18 sts,
*1 sl st in the next st, ch 2, 1 dc* (*all into the same st)
1 dc in each of the next 15 sts
sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [50 – including the 18 sl st for the eye opening]
R17: Continuing with CC yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts.
Next you will work 17 fdc stitches: For the first fdc, begin in the space created by the ch2 (just before the sl st bit of the eye opening) of the previous round, (do not let the fdc sts twist as you work across!). Work 15 more fdc. For the last fdc st begin the st the same by inserting the hook into the fdc st prior, then insert the hook through the 1st dc st from the round below (the first st after the sl sts on the eye opening) before pulling up the loop to complete the st. This anchors the fdc in place.
Next, crochet 1 dc into the same st you just anchored the fdc into. Crochet 1 dc into each remaining st across, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join and finish off the CC yarn [50]
R18: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, crochet 1 sc in each of the first 12 sts, 1
dc in each of the next 26 sts; 1 sc in each of the final 12 sts [50]
R19-22: Repeat R18 MC [50]
R23-26: Repeat R18 CC. Finish off. [50]
Please note the length of the balaclava can be adjusted easily by adding, or skipping rounds after round
18.
Man – to fit head circumference of 23-24″ and 15″ long
R1: Using your MC yarn, crochet 10 dc into a magic loop, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [10]
R2: ch 2, 2 dc into each st around, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [20]
R3: ch 2, (1 dc in the first st, 2 dc in the next st) 10 x, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [30]
R4: ch 2, (1 dc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 10 x, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join, do not finish off the MC yarn [40]
R5: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, *work over the tail of the CC yarn to secure it in place* (1 sc in each of the first 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 10 x ,sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join, do not finish off the CC yarn [50]
R6: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 2, (1 dc in each of the first 16 sts, 2 dc in the next st) x 2; (1 dc in each of the first 15 sts, 2 dc in the next st), sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [53]
R7: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join, do not finish off the CC yarn [53]
R8: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [53]
R9 – 15: Repeat R8; do not finish off MC yarn at the end of R15 [53]
R16: Pull your CC yarn through the loop on the hook to ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to the first dc of the round to join [53]
R17: Continuing with CC yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts,
ch 2, 1 sl st into the same st you just crocheted the last dc in;
1 sl st in each of the next 21 sts,
*1 sl st in the next st, ch 2, 1 dc* (*all into the same st)
1 dc in each of the next 15 sts
sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join [53 – including the 21 sl st for the eye opening]
R18: Continuing with CC yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts.
Next you will work 21 fdc stitches: For the first fdc, begin in the space created by the ch2 (just before the sl st bit of the eye opening) of the previous round, (do not let the fdc sts twist as you work across!). Work 19 more fdc. For the last fdc st begin the st the same by inserting the hook into the fdc st prior, then insert the hook through the 1st dc st from the round below (the first st after the sl sts on the eye opening) before pulling up the loop to complete the st. This anchors the fdc in place.
Next, crochet 1 dc into the same st you just anchored the fdc into. Crochet 1 dc into each remaining st across, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join and finish off the CC yarn [53]
R19: Pull your MC yarn through the loop on your hook to ch 1, crochet 1 sc in each of the first 13 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 27 sts; 1 sc in each of the final 13 sts [53]
R20-23: using MC, Repeat R19 [53]
R24-28: using CC, Repeat R19, Finish off. [53]
Please note the length of the balaclava can be adjusted easily by adding, or skipping rounds after round
19.
Rhondda says
You are very welcome Daisy! Have a great weekend, Rhondda
Daisy says
Love the pattern – just finishing up my first one and plan on making more. Thank you for sharing !!!
Lauren says
Hi Rhondda, yes the video helped a lot. Thank you 😁
Rhondda says
Hi Lauren, When you are on R18 and you are making the FDC stitches they create a ‘chain’ effect because they are not attached to anything. They are chainless foundation double crochet stitches – so they aren’t actually worked into anything so the make the base of the eye opening. They are worked only into each other because they are like a starting chain but they are essentially a starting chain with a double crochet stitch worked into it already. If you would like to see a tutorial on how to make them this is a good one: https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/chainless-foundation-single-half-double/
I hope this helps 🙂 Rhondda
Lauren says
Hi, I’m on R18 where I have to do the FDC and I’m confused on where I should work the next 19 sts without covering the slit for the eyes. Do I suppose to turn the work?? PLEASE HELP!!
Sharon says
Thanks for the free pattern. I’m working on the Teen/Woman pattern and wanted to know if there is a mistake at R10-14 where it says to repeat R8…should it be repeat R9 instead, using the MC and dc instead of CC and sc?
LoriD says
Thanks Rhonda! I will try it using your adult pattern creating an opening for the mouth (and the extra to tuck in – thx for that reminder) and I will let you know how it turns out; once I get to that on my list! I have a number of WIPs in the queue! ;D
Rhondda says
Hi Lori,
You could try skipping some stitches a few rows beneath the eyes to create an opening for the mouth. I haven’t tried it but I think it would be a somewhat easy alternation 🙂 If he is looking for a ski mask with a bit more length I would also suggest adding a few additional rows at the bottom so he can tuck it securely in his jacket. All the best, Rhondda
LoriD says
Hi Rhonda! I love your balaclava pattern! I have a question. It looks like there is only one slot for the eyes; how difficult do you think it would be to add a slot for the mouth? I have a relative who likes to go hunting and had requested I make one that he can eat and drink without removing it. Thanks in advance for any advice and help! 🙂
Rhondda says
Hi Joanie! You are very welcome 🙂 We get a lot of snow here too in Southern Ontario – these hats are perfect for those cold, snowy and windy days! I am very happy you like the pattern and if you have any questions please feel free to send me a message. I finally figured out how to turn on comment notifications today so now I am ready to respond more quickly!! Thanks again, Rhondda
Joanie Lukasavich says
I was about to email you to let me know when you have the teen/adult version pattern ready to post and I happened to look closer and saw that you had already posted it!!!!! This is perfect for my family!!! My youngest grandchild is 5 (infact, we have 2 boys the same age) and the other 3 are older, but they ALL have big heads!!! This pattern is absolutely perfect for them. We live near the Buffalo, NY area and we are infamous for our snow/cold here. I’m going to get started NOW so we ALL have them. Thank you, thank you!!! Kudos on the “free”, too, I might add.
Cathie says
These would be perfect for the kids next winter. Particularly when they stand waiting for the school bus !
Julie Corbisiero says
Hi Rhondda, thanks so much for putting my blog on the directory for free crochet patterns! I really appreciate it. Have a nice day.
Julie at Julie’s Lifestyle