Yarn Stash Basket - Free Stash Buster Pattern for Medium Weight Yarn

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If you are looking for a great stash buster project for medium weight yarn then this post is for you! This super easy and beautifully textured Yarn Stash Basket is crocheted with 3-strands of medium weight yarn held together. You can pick and choose specific colors or grab your yarn ends and go wild with colors!

When I changed colors I totally cheated and broke all the ‘unwritten’ crochet laws by tying those yarn ends together in a lovely and strong DOUBLE knot and then I crocheted away until I needed to grab another color. Afterwards I wove those ends inside the basket in multiple directions. Feel free to take your time and change colors properly and weave then in to secure your ends in the proper manner – I always do for blankets and clothing items that will be laundered or worn but for a basket that I am stuffing yarn inside – I truly found it unnecessary. Which made this a delight to crochet. I used up a lot of my stashed medium weight yarn in one basket and it worked up really quick. This was definitely a weekend project for me, as the yarn was a bit heavy on my wrists – so I took a few breaks – but if you do not have wrist or arm pain I am pretty sure you can make this in a single evening.

Make this easy-to-crochet yarn stash basket for larger items like balls of yarn, towels or for stashing hats and mitts by the front door. This is a fantastic project to use up your extra yarn as you use 3-strands of medium weight held together.

Supplies

Yarn: 3 strands of Medium Weight Yarn [4] held together. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn; [5 oz (141g) / Approx. 236 yds (215m)]. Colors: Peridot, Topaz and Lapis
Hook: 8.0 mm (M) Furls Pineapple Candy Shop Hook
Finished Project Yardage: 15.39 oz (434 g) ; 726.4 yds (661.7 m) (just over 3 balls of this yarn)
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)

Difficulty Level

Easy

Finished Size

11 inches tall (when sitting on a flat surface)
10 inches diameter (when measuring the initial base circle)

Gauge

5 sets of (ch 1, baby bean) in 4 inches
8 rows in 4 inches

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.

If you would like to make the matching Stash Baskets for your hooks (or pens and pencils) please see this post:

Easy Free Crochet Stash Buster Basket Pattern

Stitch Diagram

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

baby bean st – baby bean stitch
BL – back loop
ch – chain
ch1sp – chain 1 space
dc – double crochet
DMR – double magic ring
R – row
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Special Stitches

Baby Bean Stitch

Insert your hook into the specified stitch (or stitch space) yarn over and pull up one loop (2 loops on the hook), yarn over the hook and insert your hook into the same specified stitch (or stitch space), yarn over and pull up one loop (4 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook to complete the baby bean stitch.

Helpful Tutorials

Stitch Anatomy

Magic Ring

Helpful Video Tutorials

Double Magic Ring

Quick Stitch Guide

Notes

This project is worked with 3-strands of yarn held together. You may also choose to substitute a super bulky weight yarn instead of the 3-strands of medium weight yarn.
This project is worked in continuous rounds until Row and then it is worked in joined rows. I recommend you use a stitch marker to mark your place. We do not chain additional stitches or slip stitch to join at the end of the round unless it is specifically written.
A photo tutorial is included at the end of the post. Please note the photo tutorial is showing 2 strands of yarn being worked (not 3) but the process is exactly the same.

Yarn Stash Basket Pattern Instructions

R1: In a DMR: work 6 sc [6]

R2: 2 sc in each st around [12]

R3: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next st. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18]

R4: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [24]

R5: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [30]

R6: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [36]

R7: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [42]

R8: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [48]

R9: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [54]

R10: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [60]

R11: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts. *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [66]

R12: This round is worked in the back loop of each st around. *1 baby bean st in the first st, ch 1, sk 1 st**. Rep from * to ** 19 times. 1 baby bean st in the next st, do not ch 1, sk the last st, sl st to the very first baby bean st of this round to join. [33 baby bean sts, 32 ch1sp, 1 sl st]

Note: Place a stitch marker in the baby bean stitch you worked the sl st into. Move this stitch marker on each row to help you mark your place.

Row 13: TURN your work. Sk the sl st, ch 1, work 1 baby bean st in the first baby bean st. *Ch 1, sk the ch1sp, 1 baby bean st in the baby bean st**. Rep from * to ** 19 times working the last baby bean st in the same st you slip stitched to join in the previous round. Sl st to the very first baby bean st of this round to join. [33 baby bean sts, 32 ch1sp, 1 sl st]

Row 14: TURN your work. Sk the sl st, ch 1, work 1 baby bean st in the first baby bean st. *Ch 1, sk the ch1sp, 1 baby bean st in the baby bean st**. Rep from * to ** 19 times working the last baby bean st in the same st you slip stitched to join in the previous row. Sl st to the very first baby bean st of this round to join. [33 baby bean sts, 32 ch1sp, 1 sl st]

Row 15 – Row 32: Rep Row 14

Round 33: Work 1 sl st in each baby bean st and in each ch 1 (the chain not the space) around the outside edge of the basket. Do not finish off if you would like to add the optional handles or carrying the basket. Proceed to Optional Handles below. [66] If you do not want to add the optional handles, finish off with an invisible join and weave in your ends.

Optional Handles

Handle 1: Ch 15. Sk 9 sts, join with 1 sl st in the 10th st. You are now going to work back along the chain 15 you just crocheted. I worked under both the back loop (ie top loop of the chain) and the back bump (back bar) of the chain st. You may choose to work through a single loop if you prefer – this is a personal preference. Work 1 sl st in each of the 15 chs and then sl st back into the basket before finishing off and weaving in your ends securely.

Handle 2: Count over 23 stitches from the left side of the handle (with the outside of the basket facing you). Leave a 3 inch tail of yarn (at least) and join your three strands of yarn with a sl st to the next st. Ch 15. Sk 9 sts, join with 1 sl st in the 10th st. You are now going to work back along the chain 15 you just crocheted. I worked under both the back loop (ie top loop of the chain) and the back bump (back bar) of the chain st. You may choose to work through a single loop if you prefer – this is a personal preference. Work 1 sl st in each of the 15 chs and then sl st back into the basket before finishing off and weaving in your ends securely.

Photo Tutorial for the Stash Basket