Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL 2016

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Welcome to Part 2 of the

Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL!

Wonder Blanket CAL 2016

This CAL began on January 7, 2016 and is scheduled to run, twice a month on Thursdays, until November 3, 2016. For specific details about the CAL, including links to each Part of the blanket please visit our Introductory Post which is available on Mistie’s blog: Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL – American Crochet. You can also create your own project page on Ravelry and join in on our group conversations about the blanket (for support and for sharing your progress). Links to the groups are available in the Introductory Post.

For Part 2 of the Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL I decided to use a stitch which has become extremely popular on my blog since I originally released it in a Let’s Learn a New Crochet Stitch Post Tutorial last year. For the full stitch tutorial please feel free to visit my original post – there are extra photographs to help you make the different stitches included for those of you who are newer to crochet. I’ve included the link in the Helpful Tutorials section below. I have also included some extra help at the very end of this post with some of the post stitches used.

Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL – Part 2

Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL Part 2

Supplies

  • Yarn: Red Heart Soft (Color: Off White) – I used 74 g (2.62 ounces).  134.35 yards (122.81 m). I have estimated I will need approximately 10.5 balls of Red Heart Soft (1480 g or 2700 yards) plus extra for the edging. I purchased 12 balls of Red Heart Soft in my 4 colors (3 of each) just to be safe.
  • Hook 5.5 mm (I)
  • Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)

Difficulty Level

INTERMEDIATE

Finished Size

this section will add approximately 3 inches height

Gauge

approximately 3 sts per inch

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
dc5tog – double crochet five stitches together
FPdc3tog – Front Post double crochet three stitches together
FPdc5tog – Front Post double crochet five stitches together
R – row/round
RS – right side (aka as the ‘pretty side’ of your work)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Special Stitches

dc5tog – double crochet five stitches together – this stitch is worked over 5 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert your hook into the next st;  yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop; yarn over the hook and pull the hook through 2 of the loops on the hook* repeat from * to * 4 more times; yarn over the hook and draw through all 6 loops on the hook

FPdc3tog – front post double crochet 3 together – this stitch is worked over 3 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 2 more time; yarn over the hook and draw through all 4 remaining loops on the hook

FPdc5tog – front post double crochet 5 together – this stitch is worked over 5 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 4 more times; yarn over the hook and draw through all 6 remaining loops on the hook

Helpful Tutorials

Chinese Puzzle Stitch Tutorial

How to change yarn color on the last yarn over

Important Note:

If you are resizing this blanket based on a multiple of 6 sts + 3 please use this version of the stitch:

Part 2 Wonder CAL Alternate Size Version

The instructions below are specific to the Wonder Crochet Blanket with 165 stitches.

Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL Part 2

Pattern Instructions

I’ve received some questions about my phrasing about working into the ch 1 – so I thought I’d add this photo to help a bit with the stitch anatomy because it can become confusing 🙂  When I say to work into the ch stitch I actually mean the ch stitch not the ch1sp. If you work into the ch1sp your stitch pattern will be a bit more stretched out and have bigger gaps between the stitch sets. So be sure to work into the actual chain itself; not the space created beneath it to get the same stitches as in my 6 rows.

Work into the ch stitch

 

Note: Either continue using the same yarn color as Part 1; or change to your new yarn on the last yarn over of PART 1‘s final stitch.

R1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st; 3 dc in the next st, dc5tog, ch 1, * skip the next st, 5 dc in the next st, dc5tog, ch 1 *. Repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts; skip the next st, 3 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the last st (remember the turning ch from the previous row counts as a stitch)[166]

R2: ch 3 (Note: the ch 3 counts as 1 dc st), turn; 1 dc in the next st; FPdc3tog, work 5 dc in the next ch, * skip the next decrease, work FPdc5tog, ch 1, work 5 dc in the next ch *. Repeat from * to * across to the last 5 sts. Skip the next decrease, FPdc3tog then work 1 dc in each of the last 2 sts of the row [166]

R3: ch 3 (Note: the ch 3 counts as 1 dc st), turn, 1 dc in the next st; 3 dc in the next decrease, work FPdc5tog, ch 1, * work 5 dc in the next ch, skip the next decrease, work FPdc5tog, ch 1 *. Repeat from * to * across to the 3 sts. Work 3 dc in the next decrease and 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc. [166]

R4: Rep R2

R5: Rep R3

R6: ch 1, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next st, *1 hdc in next, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc of each of the next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st** Rep from * to ** across to the last 5 sts. 1 hdc in the next st. 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts. sc2tog over the last 2 sts. [165]

**Please note we need to get back to 165 stitches for this row. The small indent caused by the sc2tog over the last 2 stitches will be hidden by the border.**

Remember if you are going to be changing colors for the next section; you would do so on the last yarn over of the last stitch of R6.

Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Extra Help: Row 2

Step 1 Row 2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 2 of R2 Part 2 of the Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 3 Row 2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 4 Row 2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 6 R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 7 R2 Part 2 of Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 8 R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 9 R 2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 10 R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Step 11 R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

5 dc in the next ch R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet blanket Cal

FPdc5tog R2 Part 2 Wonder Blanket CAL

continue across to last 5 sts R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Work FPdc3tog over the next 3 sts R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

1 dc each last 2 sts R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

Extra Help: Row 3:

Ch 3 1 dc in next R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

3dc in next dec R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

work across to the last 3 sts R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

3 dc in last decrease R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

1 dc in each of last 2 sts R2 Part 2 Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL

 

 

Extra Help:

Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together (FPdc2tog)

Please note this tutorial was prepared for the Chinese Puzzle Stitch which uses FPdc2tog – this is very similar to the FPdc3tog – varying only in the repeat of  process for one additional stitch. I have included this to assist you – just remember it is worked over 3 stitches; rather than over 2 stitches for the pattern instructions above for the Wonder Blanket.

FPdc2tog – front post double crochet 2 together – this stitch is worked over 2 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 1 more time; yarn over the hook and draw through all 3 remaining loops on the hook

FPDC2TOG 1FPDC2TOG IMAGE 2

FPDC2TOG IMAGE 3

FPDC2TOG IMAGE 4FPDC2TOG image 5

Front Post Double Crochet 5 Together

FPdc5tog – front post double crochet 5 together – this stitch is worked over 5 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 4 more times; yarn over the hook and draw through all 6 remaining loops on the hook

fpdc5tog

FPDC5TOG TUT 2

FPDC5TOG 3

FPDC5TOG 7

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27 Comments

  1. Hello! Do you an ‘Extra Help’ photos for row 6?? I’m having troubles with it.

    Aloha,
    Isela

  2. I just want to say “Thank You!” for taking the time to post the photos, directions, and coloring the yarn step-by-step as this is very helpful for us new crocheters. I appreciate you very much! These photo tutorials are super helpful.

  3. Thank you so very much … thanks to some ladies, we discovered that I was not reading properly the pattern … I did the 5DCtog in one stitch! All is good … even perfect now! Thank you!

  4. Hi Patricia, It shouldn’t be wavy – it should remain a consistent width and it is thicker but not ruffled when it is finished. If it is becoming ruffled you may need to move down a hook size to tighten up your gauge / tension. I hope this helps! Rhondda

  5. Hi, on this first round, is this normal that the work becomes very wavy? Looks like a ‘ruche’ … so I am a bit concerned but I guess it’s normal since we crochet 5 times in each stitch …. I am using the pattern for a bigger blanket. Thank you!

  6. Hi Diana! You can participate in this CAL at any time 🙂 Here’s the link to the Initial Post which includes links for every part of the blanket (and it is updated to include the new links as they become available). https://web.archive.org/web/20170806085448/http://americancrochet.com:80/wonder-crochet-blanket-2016-cal-american-crochet-2/ The first post was written by Mistie of American Crochet and can be found: https://www.americancrochet.com/wonder-crochet-blanket-2016-cal-american-crochet/ Have fun! Rhondda

  7. Hi June 🙂 Yes – each of my posts has a Print Friendly button located at the very end. It is right under my closing signature and before the social media sharing buttons. If you are having trouble finding it an alternate solution is to copy the link for this post (the one you are on right now is: https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/wonder-crochet-blanket-cal-2016/ ) and paste that link into the “enter a url” field in printfriendly’s site. Here’s the link to printfriendly: https://www.printfriendly.com/ It will also give you the option to print or save a pdf copy. You can actually use this free service from Print Friendly for any website online which does not give you the Print Friendly button in the post. Hope this helps!! Rhondda

  8. Is there a “print friendly” button? I need to print this out, to be able to follow it.

  9. Hi Karin, I’m sharing a photo in the FB group (if it will let me – it is the full size photo of my top row) – only thing is I never took a photo from the wrong side of the work so the stitches will be showing you their ‘backs’ so to speak. Was there a specific bit that was causing you some trouble? I will try to tag you in the group with the image. Talk soon, Rhondda

  10. I am having trouble working row 6 of part 2 into the pattern of row 5. Can you show some close up pictures of that please?

  11. Hi Sylvia, You can use either section to make the 165 stitch blanket. Both work equally well 🙂 The pattern has been fully tested (both versions). I’m happy you found one which worked perfectly! All the best, Rhondda

  12. Totally up to you 🙂 I am using 4 colors for my blanket. Some people are making their blankets in a solid color from start to finish 🙂 You get to make your blanket in the colors you wish 🙂 All the best, Rhondda

  13. Hi Judy, Color is totally up to you – I am personally changing colors for every section of the tutorial. I did Mistie’s section (Part 1) in Red. My section in Cream and the next section in Green. Some people have done color changes every row – and other’s have done every 2 rows. They all look lovely. Have fun picking the colors to use in your blanket! Rhondda

  14. I can only say on my behalf since nothing about changing colours has been stated it is purely our decision, I personally am changing every row & working 6 colours repeatedly.

    Feel free to delete this if not correct.

  15. Hi Rhondda,
    I am doing the original pattern (165 stitches), but could not get this version of your Row 1 to work (* skip the next st, 5 dc in the next st, dc5tog, ch 1 *). After the final repeat of this set, I did not have 4 stitches left.
    I am using the alternate version, which worked out perfectly (the one with no skipped stitches).
    Thanks for contributing to this afghan 🙂

  16. SENSE WE DON’T KNOW HOW THIS IS TO LOOK COULD YOU PLEASE LET US KNOW WHEN TO CHANGE COLORS?

  17. Is there an actual visual tutorial on this or is it just written instructions, complete amateur here.

  18. Next rows 4th Feb.. one part every 2 weeks.. time will be so long till then..
    Many thanks for the patterns, it looks promising.. :)xx

  19. Love the pattern so far. Your tutorial is so helpful. When is the next 6 rows coming out?

  20. Hi Volesta 🙂 We expect approximately 240 rows in total plus the outer edging for the blanket. I’m happy to hear the tutorial was helpful! Thank you for trying my portion of the blanket. I know it looked a bit challenging but I hoped it would be received well. All the best, Rhondda

  21. This tutorial is great!
    How many rows besides the first six will we be doing?
    Thank you