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Welcome to Part 2 of the

Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL!

This CAL began on January 7, 2016 and is scheduled to run, twice a month on Thursdays, until November 3, 2016. For specific details about the CAL, including links to each Part of the blanket please visit our Introductory Post which is available on Mistie’s blog: Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL – American Crochet. You can also create your own project page on Ravelry and join in on our group conversations about the blanket (for support and for sharing your progress). Links to the groups are available in the Introductory Post.

For Part 2 of the Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL I decided to use a stitch which has become extremely popular on my blog since I originally released it in a Let’s Learn a New Crochet Stitch Post Tutorial last year. For the full stitch tutorial please feel free to visit my original post – there are extra photographs to help you make the different stitches included for those of you who are newer to crochet. I’ve included the link in the Helpful Tutorials section below. I have also included some extra help at the very end of this post with some of the post stitches used.

Wonder Crochet Blanket CAL – Part 2

Supplies

• Yarn: Red Heart Soft (Color: Off White) – I used 74 g (2.62 ounces).  134.35 yards (122.81 m). I have estimated I will need approximately 10.5 balls of Red Heart Soft (1480 g or 2700 yards) plus extra for the edging. I purchased 12 balls of Red Heart Soft in my 4 colors (3 of each) just to be safe.
• Hook 5.5 mm (I)
• Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)

Difficulty Level

INTERMEDIATE

Finished Size

this section will add approximately 3 inches height

Gauge

approximately 3 sts per inch

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
dc5tog – double crochet five stitches together
FPdc3tog – Front Post double crochet three stitches together
FPdc5tog – Front Post double crochet five stitches together
R – row/round
RS – right side (aka as the ‘pretty side’ of your work)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Special Stitches

dc5tog – double crochet five stitches together – this stitch is worked over 5 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert your hook into the next st;  yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop; yarn over the hook and pull the hook through 2 of the loops on the hook* repeat from * to * 4 more times; yarn over the hook and draw through all 6 loops on the hook

FPdc3tog – front post double crochet 3 together – this stitch is worked over 3 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 2 more time; yarn over the hook and draw through all 4 remaining loops on the hook

FPdc5tog – front post double crochet 5 together – this stitch is worked over 5 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 4 more times; yarn over the hook and draw through all 6 remaining loops on the hook

Helpful Tutorials

Chinese Puzzle Stitch Tutorial

How to change yarn color on the last yarn over

Important Note:

If you are resizing this blanket based on a multiple of 6 sts + 3 please use this version of the stitch:

Part 2 Wonder CAL Alternate Size Version

The instructions below are specific to the Wonder Crochet Blanket with 165 stitches.

Pattern Instructions

I’ve received some questions about my phrasing about working into the ch 1 – so I thought I’d add this photo to help a bit with the stitch anatomy because it can become confusing 🙂  When I say to work into the ch stitch I actually mean the ch stitch not the ch1sp. If you work into the ch1sp your stitch pattern will be a bit more stretched out and have bigger gaps between the stitch sets. So be sure to work into the actual chain itself; not the space created beneath it to get the same stitches as in my 6 rows.

 

Note: Either continue using the same yarn color as Part 1; or change to your new yarn on the last yarn over of PART 1‘s final stitch.

R1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st; 3 dc in the next st, dc5tog, ch 1, * skip the next st, 5 dc in the next st, dc5tog, ch 1 *. Repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts; skip the next st, 3 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the last st (remember the turning ch from the previous row counts as a stitch)[166]

R2: ch 3 (Note: the ch 3 counts as 1 dc st), turn; 1 dc in the next st; FPdc3tog, work 5 dc in the next ch, * skip the next decrease, work FPdc5tog, ch 1, work 5 dc in the next ch *. Repeat from * to * across to the last 5 sts. Skip the next decrease, FPdc3tog then work 1 dc in each of the last 2 sts of the row [166]

R3: ch 3 (Note: the ch 3 counts as 1 dc st), turn, 1 dc in the next st; 3 dc in the next decrease, work FPdc5tog, ch 1, * work 5 dc in the next ch, skip the next decrease, work FPdc5tog, ch 1 *. Repeat from * to * across to the 3 sts. Work 3 dc in the next decrease and 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc. [166]

R4: Rep R2

R5: Rep R3

R6: ch 1, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next st, *1 hdc in next, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc of each of the next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st** Rep from * to ** across to the last 5 sts. 1 hdc in the next st. 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts. sc2tog over the last 2 sts. [165]

**Please note we need to get back to 165 stitches for this row. The small indent caused by the sc2tog over the last 2 stitches will be hidden by the border.**

Remember if you are going to be changing colors for the next section; you would do so on the last yarn over of the last stitch of R6.

Extra Help: Row 2

Extra Help: Row 3:

 

 

Extra Help:

Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together (FPdc2tog)

Please note this tutorial was prepared for the Chinese Puzzle Stitch which uses FPdc2tog – this is very similar to the FPdc3tog – varying only in the repeat of  process for one additional stitch. I have included this to assist you – just remember it is worked over 3 stitches; rather than over 2 stitches for the pattern instructions above for the Wonder Blanket.

FPdc2tog – front post double crochet 2 together – this stitch is worked over 2 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 1 more time; yarn over the hook and draw through all 3 remaining loops on the hook

Front Post Double Crochet 5 Together

FPdc5tog – front post double crochet 5 together – this stitch is worked over 5 sts – * yarn over the hook, insert the hook from front to back, to front, around the post of the next dc, yarn over the hook and pull up 1 loop, yarn over the hook and draw through 2 of the loops on the hook * repeat from * to * 4 more times; yarn over the hook and draw through all 6 remaining loops on the hook

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