Warm Winter Ski Masks Free Pattern

When you purchase through links on my site, I may earn an affiliate commission.
Here’s how it works.

Darla and Drew finally outgrew their Balaclava Hats!  Which means I needed to make them new ski masks just in case our super cold and windy winter weather does decide to arrive this year!

I decided to make these a bit longer than what might be considered “normal” because I wanted extra ‘hat’ length to tuck into the neckline Darla’s and Drew’s coats…a bit like a combined hat and cowl. If you want them shorter just eliminate 2 rounds for every inch shorter you wish to make the ski mask.

If you want to make beanies instead work up until the round you would skip chain stitches to create the eye holes in the size of your choice.

These hats can be folded up into a beanie style for when you do not wish to wear them as a ski mask too!

The eye hole will stretch to allow the face to be uncovered if you want it to be!

This is a very easy pattern to crochet!

Warm Winter Ski Masks Free Pattern Multiple Sizes Bulky Weight Yarn Oombawka Design Crochet

Supplies

  • Yarn: Lion Brand Yarns Lion’s Pride Woolspun.  100 g (3.5 oz); 127 yds (116 m).  Bulky [5] Weight Yarn. (Colorway: Orchid and Black) – 2 balls are required for Sizes 3 years and larger (I have also made 6 of these using Loops & Threads Charisma the stitches per inch remain the same but by the end you do have a little extra length so double check the height of the hat you are making and omit 1 or 2 rows as needed – unless you don’t mind it being a bit longer!)
  • Hook 6.0 mm (J)
  • Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)

Difficulty Level

EASY

Finished Size

Please see each of the sizes listed below in the Pattern Instructions for measurements.

Gauge

10 dc = approximately 4 inches
7 rows = approximately 4 inches

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

beg – beginning
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
MR – Magic Ring
R – row/round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Warm Winter Ski Masks Free Pattern Multiple Sizes Bulky Weight Yarn Oombawka Design Crochet Insta #freepattern #freecrochetpattern

Helpful Tutorials

Invisible Join / Invisible Finish

Changing Colours on the Last Yarn Over

Magic Ring

Notes:

  • do not count the sl st as a stitch
  • do not count the ch 2 at the beginning of a round as a stitch
  • the first st of each round is worked in the same st as you sl st to join
Add this to Queue and Favorites

Warm Winter Ski Masks

Ski-Mask-Face-free crochet pattern Oombawka Design

Pattern Instructions

Remember: The first st of each round is worked in the same st as you sl st to join

Size: 6-12 months

To Fit: 18 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 12.5 inches

R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 5 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]

R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]

R6-R8: rep R5 [41]

R9: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 13 sts. Ch 14. Skip 14 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 14 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [29]

R10: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 14 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]

Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [41]

R13-19: Rep R12; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [41]

Size: 12-24 months

To Fit: 19 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 13.5 inches

R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 8 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]

R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]

R6-R9: rep R5 [44]

R10: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 14 sts. Ch 15. Skip 15 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [29]

R11: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 15 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]

Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]

R13-21: Rep R12; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [44]

Size: 3-6 years

To Fit: 20 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 14 inches

R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 10 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

R6-R10: rep R5 [46]

R11: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Ch 15. Skip 15 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [31]

R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 15 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

R14-22: Rep R13; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [46]

Size: 7-10 years

To Fit: 20 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 15 inches

R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 10 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

R5: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

R6-R10: rep R5 [46]

R11: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Ch 15. Skip 15 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [31]

R12: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 15 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

R14-24: Rep R13; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [46]

Size: Adult Small

To Fit: 21 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 16 inches

R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]

R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. 1 dc in each rem st around. [49]

R6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [49]

R7-R12: rep R6 [49]

R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Ch 17. Skip 17 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 16 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [32]

R14: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 17 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [49]

Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

R15: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [49]

R16-26: Rep R15; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [49]

Size: Adult Medium

To Fit: 22 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 16.5 inches

R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]

R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** 3 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [51]

R6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [51]

R7-R12: rep R6 [51]

R13: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 17 sts. Ch 17. Skip 17 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 17 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [34]

R14: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 17 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [51]

Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

R15: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [51]

R16-27: Rep R15; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [51]

Size: Adult Large

To Fit: 23 inches Head Circumference
Finished Length: 17 inches

R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]

R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** 6 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [54]

R6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [54]

R7-R13: rep R6 [54]

R14: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 18 sts. Ch 18. Skip 18 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 18 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

R15: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 18 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [54]

Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

R16: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [54]

R17-28: Rep R16; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [54]

Warm Winter Ski Masks Free Pattern Multiple Sizes Bulky Weight Yarn Oombawka Design Crochet PIN #freepattern #freecrochetpattern #crochet
Signature

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

33 Comments

  1. Hi Xavier, you only need to work that * to ** the one time. Then 1 stitch in each rem stitch around. We are only adding 1 extra stitch for the round for a total of 49 stitches. Sorry for the confusion!

  2. Adult small round 5, it gives the *’s to repeat but it doesn’t say how many times to repeat it?

  3. Hi Christian, depending on how snug you’d like this you can work dc2tog stitches to adjust the neck. Remember it must still be able to make it over the head (stretch over the head) so you wouldn’t be able to decrease too many times. Each time you stretch it over the head it will pull the stitches looser around the neck. Depending on what fiber you are crocheting with it may not bounce back to the smaller neck size. You could work the rounds unjoined and turn at the end of each row for the neck section and then use a closure to keep it together. This would allow you to make it as narrow as you’d like essentially because the closure would be able to open to allow the head to fit inside. Hope this makes sense, R

  4. Hi! I’m working on the adult large. How would I make the neck piece tighter than the head section? I want it to fit tighter around the neck and not be 54 stitches around.

  5. I deleted it Cathyjo. I hope the hat turned out for your son the way you wanted it too – it can be very difficult swapping different yarn weights for patterns – especially because the band on the yarn can say Medium Weight and then such a huge range of yarns are included in that single section. It can be difficult too depending on what the yarn is made up of. Some yarns stretch a lot (like bamboo), some stretch very little (like cotton and linen) and some are in the middle (like acrylic and wools). Wishing you the best, Rhondda

  6. Hello
    Please delete my post. I couldn’t review I’m Ready edit. I certainly did not want it so long. Many apologies.

  7. Hi Janaysha, You would need to work the hat to have 65 stitches to have a finished hat circumference of 26 inches. You may want that a bit smaller so it doesn’t stretch to be larger than 26 inches after being worn a few times though. If you meet the same gauge as I have in the pattern 10 dc = approximately 4 inches and 7 rows = approximately 4 inches; then you would need to work to 65 stitches. If you want a 25 inch circumference 62 sts is your goal. If you want 24 inches then 60 sts.

    I’ve written out for the 26 inches you asked for below but if you want the 60 sts instead then skip R6 and change the section for the eye hole area to be work 20 dc, skip 20 and ch 20, work 20 dc.

    R1: MR: ch 2, 12 dc, sl st to the top of first dc to join. [12]

    R2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [24]

    R3: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

    R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]

    R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [60]

    R6: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 11 sts**. Rep from * to ** 5 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [65]

    R7: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [65]

    R8-R14: rep R6 [65]

    R16: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 22 sts. Ch 21. Skip 21 sts. 1 dc in each of the next 22 sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [44]

    R17: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around and in the back bump of each of the 21 ch sts. Sl st to the first dc to join. [65]

    Why the back bump? it gives the chain stitches more stretch and also mimics the appearance of the other crochet stitches directly above it.

    R18: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [65]

    R19-30: Rep R18; do not sl st on the final round to join. Instead, use the invisible join to finish off and then weave any loose ends. [65]

    You may need to work a few less repeat rounds – I’m not certain if you will need this much hat height/length. I’d also try to see if it fits for the eye hole section before continuing too far because you may need to add or remove one repeat round before we skip the 21 sts.

    I hope this helps you get started 🙂

    All the best, Rhondda

  8. Hi Rhondda, I want to make this hat with a circumference of 26 inches for someone with very thick hair. How many more stitches will I need to add to the beginning?

  9. Hi Penny, Here are the instructions so it makes it easier for me to explain:
    R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 12 times. [48]

    R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** 6 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [54]

    At the end of R4 we have 48 stitches. In R5 you repeat the instructions between the * and ** 6 times. This means we work them 6 times in total. Then we work one dc in each remaining st around. We are only adding 6 stitches in R5. R4 is 48 stitches, plus 6 stitches is 54 stitches.

    Hope this helps, R

  10. The large on round 5 it comes out to 58 no matter how I do it. Can you help please.

  11. Hi Denise, You could try that 🙂 These will fit beneath the chin instead if you want the full face to be out (my one child hated having their mouth covered). I haven’t added an opening for a mouth to a ski mask before so I am not certain how large it would need to be for each size of mask. If 18 seems to big maybe try for a 10 sts? I think that would give you 4 full inches of space across – you may want to even make it 8 sts and see if that is large enough? I hope this helps a bit! Rhondda

  12. If I want to have an opening for the mouth, can I follow the 18 dcs, chain 18 and 18 dcs further down the piece?
    Thank you.
    Denise
    A

  13. Hi Angela, I would need to rewrite the pattern completely in order to tell you how to adjust it for medium weight yarn [4]. Going up hook sizes for you to reach the gauge in the pattern would make the spaces between the stitches quite big and I don’t think that would look very good or be very effective for blocking out the cooler temperatures. I will add this to my list of things to do after the holidays – to make a ski hat for medium weight yarn. I’m sorry I can’t do it right away – just very busy with my children and with the Christmas Holidays approaching. All the best, Rhondda

  14. Hi. I really want to make this for an aunt that is use to warmer weather. I really would like to make it with the heat wave yarn which is only a 4 and planning on probably an adult medium. What adjustments would I need to make?

  15. Hi Keshia, Your repeat R6 6 times.
    Size: Adult Small
    R6: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [49]
    Hope this helps, Rhondda

  16. Hi Ana, Yes bulky should substitute just fine 🙂 The yarn I used has this information on the label: 100 g (3.5 oz); 127 yds (116 m). It is a bulky [5] weight yarn. I’m going to add this extra information to the post 🙂 All the best, Rhondda

  17. Hi Rhonda, can I use any bulky weigh yarn to make this? I have plenty of that but not the brand you recommend.

  18. Hi Yvonne, I use the same size for each pattern – I rewrite the patterns to use the same size hook 🙂 Hope this helps, Rhondda

  19. Hi Rhondda!!!! How are you doing? In your pattern I only see J Hook. S,M,L what hook do you use for each size.

  20. Hi Kelly, I hope it keeps you nice and warm! Let me know if you have any questions with the pattern 🙂 All the best, Rhondda

  21. Thank you, Rhondda for this pattern. I have a nearly mile walk to work and back every day. Wind-chill was -22 last night, and the wind was brutal. Can’t wait to make this, my next project this week-end. Plus I love how it can be folded up as a beanie, too. Luv your work

  22. Hi Jenna, Depending on how big you may simply be able to change the following:
    R5: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** 6 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. [54]

    If for R5 you work the repeat 9 times (57 stitches) you will add just over 1 inch in circumference. If you work the repeat 12 times (60 stitches) this will give you about 2.5 inches extra in the circumference of the hat. You will also likely need more length in the hat so you can simply increase repeats for length (depending on how much longer he will want it).

    Hope this helps!
    Rhondda

  23. Just wondering how we can make them even larger? My hubby has a big head 😂

  24. Hi Nikkole,

    For R4: ch 2, *2 dc in the first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** 10 times. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. [46]

    You repeat the section in * ** 10 times and then work 1 dc in each remaining stitch around. This increases 10 more stitches from R3 to give you 46. I hope this helps 🙂 All the best, Rhondda

  25. I actually think we are supposed to repeat the 2 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc 9 times instead of 10. The stitch count works out if we only do the repeat 9 times. 😀

  26. Hi Rhondda,

    I was wondering something. For the Size 7-10, R4 stitch count states 46. I am counting 47 stitches instead. I know the beginning is the same as if you were going for 48 stitches for the other larger sizes but the 46 leaves one stitch from R3 unused. Am I correct or no?

  27. Hi Asia, Thank you! I didn’t realize my typo had been copied and pasted through the whole pattern!! I’ve fixed it 🙂 Thank you for letting me know. All the best, Rhondda

  28. Hi Kylee! I apologize!! typo – it should say rep R6 not R5. I’m fixing it right now! Thank you for letting me know 🙂 I really appreciate it!! Rhondda

  29. I was a little confused on R7-13 instructions. For this do we need to follow every step in R5 or just the last section, 1 dc in each st around to keep 54 st around?