Vintage Modern Crochet by Robyn Chachula – Book Review

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Vintage Modern Crochet by Robyn Chachula Book Review oombawkadesigncrochet.com

Vintage Modern Crochet by Robyn Chachula
Interweave/F+W; $24.99

Vintage Modern Crochet by Robyn Chachula

Book Review

Classic Crochet Lace and Contemporary Style have been combined to create the extremely feminine designs in Vintage Modern Crochet.  Within the pages you will find Pineapple Lace, Bruges Lace, Filet Lace, Irish Lace and Tunisian Crochet Techniques.

Each design is provided in written U.S. Crochet Terms (American Terms). Schematics and visual crochet diagrams for the stitch patterns have also been provided. Technique Tidbits are highlighted in the designs too – providing us with a greater depth of knowledge of the technique(s) and how they can be used in your designs and crochet work.

Vintage Modern Crochet is prettily published, with vibrant and colorful images and clear fonts and feminine script headings. Colors have also been used in the stitch diagrams to make them easier to follow.

I love the collage style pages within – showcasing the images in each section and the pretty colors used throughout to border the pages and text. Overall Vintage Modern Crochet is a visually pleasing book to hold and to browse through.

The Designs included are:

Pineapple Lace

  • O’Hara Hat (Size: Woman 19″ hat band)
  • Kidwell Garden Wrap (Size: 12.5″ wide by 71″ long)
  • Bromelia Infinity Scarf (Size: 9.5″ wide by 62″ long)
  • Zoe Cardigan (Size: S, M, L, XL)

Bruges Lace

  • Ter Berge Lace Shawl (Size: 25″ wide by 62″ long)
  • Zandstraat Jewelry (Size: 3″ wide by 4″ tall [pendant], 2″ wide by 7″ long [cuff])
  • Leopold Pullover (Size: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X)

Filet Lace

  • Bow Tie Necklace (Size: 4 3/8″ by 1 5/8″ and 15.5″ around the neck)
  • Carefree Pullover (Size: S/M, L/XL)
  • Celtic Cross Wrap (Size: 70″ wide by 24″ long)
  • Field Cardigan (Size: S, M, L, XL)

Irish Lace

  • Temperance Jewelry (Size: 18″ circumference [necklace], 3″ length [earrings])
  • Fidelma Motif Shawl (Size: 24″ wide, 70″ long)
  • Aine Fascinator and Headband (Size: 5″ diameter [flower on fascinator], 3.5″ [flower on headband])
  • Guipure Top (Size: S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

Tunisian Crochet

  • Syrah Cuffs (Size: 2″ wide by 7.5″ long)
  • Yasmine Shawl (Size: 66″ wide and 28″ long)
  • Cyrine Striped Dress (Size: XS, S, M, L, XL)
  • Fleur Swing Top (Size: XS, S M, L, XL)
  • Priya Cowl (Size: 17″ wide by 35″ long)

 Here’s A Great Peek Inside:

Some of my favorite designs are:

  • Fleur Swing Top ( the gathered neckline)
  • Leopold Pullover
  • Ter Berge Lace Shawl
  • Bromelia Infinity Scarf
  • and I ♥ the Kidwell Garden Wrap!!

If you are searching for an exquisite shawl for warmer weather check out the Fidelma Motif Shawl – it is stunning!

The Publisher has generously gifted us a Bonus Excerpt Pattern – for the very pretty O’Hara Hat. You can save yourself a copy below – remember my Printfriendly Button is located at the end of the post! The diagram is in PDF format so if you want a copy of that you can also download it directly from the link in the pattern below.


Bonus Excerpt Pattern

Excerpted from Vintage Modern Crochet Copyright © 2016 by Robyn Chachula and published by F+W Media, Inc. Used by permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Photography by Donald Scott.

♥ Get the Bonus Excerpt Pattern: O'Hara Hat ♥ Vintage Modern Crochet Book Review. Click to Tweet

 

Ohara Hat - Bonus Excerpt Pattern - oombawkadesigncrochet.com

O’Hara Hat

REBECCA VELASQUEZ

 

Typically, when you think of the pineapple motif, a doily or perhaps even a shawl comes to mind. I knew I wanted to try something a bit different; something fun and modern; something wearable by many women with many different styles. A hat!

Ohara Hat Diagram Excerpt

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Fits average woman’s head. Hat band circumference = 19″ (48.5 cm).

 

YARN

DK Weight (#4 Medium).

Shown here: Berroco Vintage DK (50% acrylic 40% wool, 10% nylon; 288 yd [263 m]/3.5 oz [100 g]): #2192 Chana Dal, 1 hank.

 

HOOK

Sizes G-6 (4.25 mm) and H-8 (5.00 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

 

NOTIONS

Locking stitch markers; tapestry needle for assembly and weaving in ends; one 1″ (2.5 cm) button.

 

GAUGE

16 sc by 20 rows= 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm) with size G-6/4.25mm hook.

 

NOTE

The hat is worked from the bottom of the crown portion to the top, then the hat is turned and the band is added by stitching into the bottom loops of the foundation chain.

 

STITCH GUIDE

Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated st or sp. When a shell is worked into the next shell, all sts are worked into the ch-1 sp of the indicated shell.

 

HAT

Row 1: (RS) For button on RIGHT side of hat, ch 28, pm in ch just created, ch 60, sc in 2nd ch from hook, pm in sc just made, sc in next ch and in ea across, do not turn—87 sc.

 

For button on LEF T side of hat, ch 60, pm in ch just created, ch 28, sc in 2nd ch from hook, pm in sc just made, sc in next ch and in ea across, do not turn—87 sc.

 

Rnd 2: Being careful not to twist your work, bring the ends together, with RS facing you, sc in the marked sc, remove marker, pm in sc just made, [ch 3, sk 4 sts, sh in next st, sk 4 sts, (ch 3, sc in next st, sk 2 sts) 3 times, sk 2 more sts, sh in next st,

ch 3, sk 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 2 sts**, sc in next st] around ending final rep at **, sl st into marked st, remove marker, do not turn.

 

Now working in rounds.

 

Rnd 3: Sl st in blp of next 2 chs, sc around next ch, pm in sc just made, [ch 3, sh in next shell, sk next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) twice, ch 3, sh in next shell, ch 3, sk in next ch-3 sp, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp**, sc in next ch-3 sp] around, ending final rep at **, sl st into marked st, remove marker, do not turn.

 

Rnd 4: Sl st in blp of next 2 chs, sc around next ch, pm in sc just made, [ch 3, sh in next shell, sk ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sh in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc (ch 1, dc in next dc) 5 times**, sc in next ch-3 sp] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in marked st, remove marker, do not turn.

 

Rnd 5: Ch 4, pm in first ch just created, [(sh in next shell) twice, sk next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times**, ch 3] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in marked ch, remove marker, do not turn.

 

Rnd 6: Ch 4, pm in first ch just created, [sh in next shell, ch 1, sh in next shell, sk next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 4 times**, ch 3] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in marked ch, remove marker, do not turn.

 

Rnd 7: Ch 4, pm in first ch just created, [sh in next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sh in next shell, sk next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times**, ch 3] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in marked ch, remove marker, do not turn.

 

Rnd 8: Ch 4, pm in first ch just created, [sh in next shell, ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) twice, sh in next shell, sk next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) twice**, ch 3] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in marked ch, remove marker, do not turn.

 

Rnd 9: Sl st in each of next 3 chs, sl st in blo of next 2 dc, sl st in ch-1 sp of shell, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same shell, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sh in next shell, sk next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3**, sh in next shell] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in top of beg ch-3, do not turn.

 

Rnd 10: Sl st in blp of next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, pm in 3rd ch just created, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same shell, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 5 times, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, shell in next shell**, shell in next shell] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in marked ch, remove m, do not turn.

 

Rnd 11: Sl st in blp of next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, pm in 3rd ch just created, 3 dc in same shell, sk ch-3 sp, [(ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 3, 4 dc in next shell**, 4 dc in next shell] around, ending final rep at **, sl sl in marked ch, remove m, do not turn.

 

Rnd 12: Ch 2, pm in 2nd ch just created, dc in next dc, [sk (2 dc, ch 3), (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 4 times, ch 3, sk (ch 3, 2 dc), dc in next dc**, dc2tog in next 2 sts, dc in next dc] around, ending final rep at **, dc in next dc, sl st to marked ch, remove m, do not turn.

 

Rnd 13: Ch 2, pm in 2nd ch just created, dc in next dc, [sk ch-3, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp,(ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 2 times, ch 2, sk ch-3 sp**, dc3tog in next 3 sts] around, ending final rep at **, dc in next dc, sl st to marked ch, remove m, do not turn.

 

Rnd 14: Ch 5, pm in 3rd ch just created, [sk ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp**, dc in next st, ch 2] around, ending final rep at **, sl st in marked ch, remove m, do not turn.

 

Rnd 15: Ch 4, pm in first ch just created, [sk ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk (ch-2 sp, dc)] around, sl st in marked ch, remove m. Fasten off.

 

HAT BAND

With RS facing you, turn hat so that you will now be working into the unworked loops of the foundation chain.

 

Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated st or sp. When a shell is worked into the next shell, all sts are worked into the ch-1 sp of the indicated shell. Work the following rows with a G/4.25mm hook.

 

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same ch as sl st just made, remove m, sc in each ch around, ch 10, turn—87 sc, 10 ch.

 

Row 2: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 8 ch, sc in each sc across, turn—96 sc.

 

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc and in each of next 91 sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn.

 

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 3 ch, sc in each sc across, turn—97 sc.

 

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, shift piece so that you are now working along the side of the buttonband, sc into the tch of row below, sc into side of next sc, sc into the tch of row below, shift piece so that you will now be working into the bottom loops of the button extension, 2 sc in first loop, sc into ea of next 8 loops, finish off. Weave in all the ends.

 

TECHNIQUE TIDBIT

For the most part, the basic pineapple lace is started with a half circle of a taller stitch, such as a double or treble crochet. On the next row, each tall stitch gets a single crochet and chain space. Then each row after has one less chain space than the previous one, which in the end makes up the pinecone shape of the pineapple motif. The fill around the motif is usually another chain space with either shells or V-sts that draw the eye to the pineapple. Once you can see the pattern, crocheting and finding mistakes become a tad easier to see.

 

BLOCKING AND SEWING

Liberally spray crown portion of the hat with water. Partially blow up a balloon. Without stretching the hat band, insert the balloon into the hat. Continue to blow up the balloon until it lightly stretches the lace/crown of the hat. Tie the balloon closed and allow the hat to air dry. When dry, pop and remove the balloon. Using project yarn and a yarn needle, with the RS facing you, sew the button to the hat band opposite the buttonhole, weave in the ends.

 

Excerpted from Vintage Modern Crochet Copyright © 2016 by Robyn Chachula and published by F+W Media, Inc. Used by permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Photography by Donald Scott. 


If you would like to purchase your own copy of Vintage Modern Crochet – Classic Crochet Lace Techniques For Contemporary Style, it is available from Interweave:

Vintage Modern Crochet by Robyn Chachula Book Review oombawkadesigncrochet.com

At the time this review was written (May 9, 2016) it was on SALE – so pop by and take advantage of the sale price before it ends!

For more information about Interweave, visit their website, Facebook or Twitter!

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24 Comments

  1. Another great review Rhondda. I’ve always been attracted to the pineapples but never seen in a hat as you mention as well. What a clever way to block a hat. I’ve never heard of using a balloon but makes perfect sense.

  2. I love these Book Reviews, Rhonnda! It helps when i am considering the purchase of a book to have someone talk a bit about what’s in the book – and whether or not it will suit my purposes.
    Thank you so much for taking the time to review so many books…
    This particular book is on my Amazon Wish List (hint… to family!) so now I have an even better idea that this book will, in fact, suit me.

  3. Some of the vintage moder crochet patterns look cool but some still just look old it depends on the yarn you use.

    Looks like some really good patterns!!

  4. I see several things in the pictures that make me want to get my hands on this book now!

  5. The vintage patterns are very interesting. I may have to try out the hat pattern.

  6. Lovely patterns and lots of new techniques for me to learn. I also like that some of the patterns are available in larger sizes, x

  7. I love these patterns. Via ntage patterns are a bit difficult to follow. Stitch diagrams using color is a great way to take all of the wording right out of the problem. I also love the pictures. They show a great deal of texture and detail. I can’t stand it when there is a vague picture. I want detailed pictures, and this book has them!

  8. I love vintage patterns! But they’re not always the easiest to follow, so it’s nie to see the classic stitches updated. Thanks!

  9. I have been looking at this book. Thanks for the review, it will be helpful in making my decision.

  10. Your review has made me want to purchase this book. The designs are awesome and I can’t decide what to try first. You gave a terrific review.

  11. I’m drooling just looking at the pics. I love them all. Robyn Chachula never disappoints with her designs! I love how she used vintage stitches in a new way. A little old and a little new equals somethings great.

  12. Thanks for the review. I have never been disapointed in something that Robyn has put together. Will have to check this one out!!!

  13. Thank you for reviewing this book. And thank you Robin for the pattern and the suggestion on how to block hats. I love how the vintage patterns are coming back and thank you for the information on the illustrations in the book.

  14. I saw this book on your reviews list and got all excited, then looked at the bulk of the patterns and was oh their lace *sigh

    I have the skill but not the patience – bleh!

  15. Beautiful patterns. Thanks for including so much info about each pattern – sizes, dimensions, etc. Now I can’t wait to get this book and try my hand at some lace!