Tranquil Washcloth Crochet Pattern
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Here’s how it works.
My Tranquil Washcloth Crochet Pattern can be crocheted in a single color, or in multiple colors. The post stitches create a fun finished texture on one side of your work. This leaves a smooth and soft back to the washcloth.
I have included the stitch multiple in the post so you can resize this to any size you want, easily. That means if you love this easy textured crochet stitch pattern, you can create a larger project like a blanket.
The final two rounds of the project are worked in the waistcoat stitch. This creates a sturdy outer edge for your cloth.
I have demonstrated the beautiful stitch pattern in my photo tutorial at the end of the post.
[disclaimer]I received the Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK yarn I used to create this design from LoveCrafts. This post includes affiliate links. If you make a purchase after you click on one of my affiliate links in the post, I will receive a small commission for referring you, at no additional cost to you. [/disclaimer]
Tranquil Washcloth Crochet Pattern
The Yarn
The Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK yarn is a beautiful lightweight cotton yarn that comes in a variety of pretty colors. I selected 4 colors for my washcloth pattern but you can easily crochet yours with as many, or as few, as you like. There are 50 different shades currently available and at the time of this post the yarn was on sale.
The colors I chose to use were:
See all the available colors >HERE<
Yarn Information
Yarn Weight: DK Weight Yarn [3]
Ball Weight: 1.7 oz (50 g)
Yarn Length: 137 yds (125 m)
Recommended Hook: 4 mm (G)
Fiber: 100% Cotton
Care: Machine Wash, Warm; Do Not Bleach; Iron, Medium; Do Not Tumble Dry
I enjoyed crocheting with the Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK yarn and I love the wide-range of shades available in this line of yarn. I enjoy working with cotton yarns and I find this yarn provided great stitch definition for my washcloth. It is also very soft to the touch. I’m thinking of using the leftover yarn to make a lightweight scarf because it is soft against the skin! I will share a photo if I do 🙂
Tranquil Washcloth Crochet Pattern
Add your project to Ravelry >HERE<
Supplies
- Yarn: Paintbox Yarns. Cotton DK. 1.7 oz (50 g) and 137 yds (125 m). 100% Cotton. Light Weight Yarn [3]. Machine washable on gentle cycle. Do not tumble dry.
- Colors: 1 skein each in Granite Grey (407), Slate Grey (406), Misty Grey (404) and Duck Egg Blue (436)
- Hook: 4 mm (G)
- Finished Project Yardage: Washcloth: 0.95 oz (28 g) and 77 yds (70 m)
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker
Difficulty Level
- Easy
Finished Size
- Washcloth width approximately 7.75 inches X 7.75 inches length
Gauge
- Approximately 3 rows per inch and 4 dc per inch (after blocking)
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
- beg – beginning
- ch – chain
- ch1sp – chain 1 space
- dc – double crochet
- FPtr – front post treble stitch
- R – row or round
- rem – remaining
- rep – repeat
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- sl st – slip stitch
- st/sts – stitch/stitches
- Tr – treble crochet stitch
- WS – wrong side (back of project)
- WST – waistcoat stitch
- * to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
- [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
- () – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space
Special Stitches
Waistcoat stitch (WST):
aka New Chain Stitch (circa 1915, Sunlight Yarns)
Insert your hook from front to back, below the top chain, having one thread on either side of the hook , (*between the 2-threads that make up the “V”*) on both sides of the work; pull up one loop. Yarn over hook and pull through both loops on the hook. Repeat.
Helpful Tutorials
Helpful Video Tutorials
Notes:
- Color A: Granite Grey (407), Color B: Slate Grey (406), Color C: Misty Grey (404) and Color D: Duck Egg Blue (436)
- I work into the back bar of the foundation chain because I believe it gives the first row more elasticity. You can work into the back loop of the chain if you prefer.
- Color changes are made on the last yarn over of the last stitch of the row.
- Stitch multiple is an odd number of stitches, plus 2 for the foundation chain.
- The photo tutorial is at the end of the post.
Tranquil Washcloth Pattern
Purchase an ad-free PDF (which also includes the photo tutorial) here.
The pattern is also free in my blog post below (so scroll down!)
This washcloth is worked back and forth in rows.
Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge) and leaving a 4 inch yarn tail:
R1: With Color A: ch 25, sk the first 3 chs (the 3 sk chs count as 1 dc), 1 dc in the 4th ch and in each rem ch across, turn. [23 dc]
R2: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R4: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
If you are changing colors, remember to change colors on the last yarn over of the last stitch of R5.
R6: With Color B: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R7: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R8: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R9: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R10: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
If you are changing colors, remember to change colors on the last yarn over of the last stitch of R11.
R12: With Color C: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R13: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R14: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R15: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
If you are changing colors, remember to change colors on the last yarn over of the last stitch of R15.
R16: With Color D: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R17: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R18: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R19: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R20: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R21: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
Do not finish off.
Weave in any rem ends you have from the first part of the washcloth.
Washcloth Edging
TIP: When I worked my first round of edging, I changed yarn colors for every colored section. You do not need to do this but I think it gives it a more finished look. If you do wish to change colors for each section, change on the last yarn over of the last stitch in the previous color.
This section is written as though you are working the first round of edging in one solid color.
Round 1:
- Remember to turn after R21. Ch 1, work 1 sc in each st across and work 3 sc in the corner.
- Rotate your work to continue crocheting down the side edge.
- Work 29 sc evenly along the side edge and work 3 sc in the corner.
- Rotate to continue crocheting across the bottom edge of R1.
- Work 1 sc in each st across and work 3 sc in the corner.
- Rotate your work to continue crocheting along the other side edge.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Round 2:
- With RS (right side) facing, join Color A in the corner sc in any corner.
- *Work 3 sc in the corner, 1 sc in each st across to the next corner sc**. Rep from * to ** 4 times.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Round 3:
- With RS facing, join Color C in the corner sc in any corner.
- *Work 3 sc in the corner, 1 WST in each st across to the next corner sc**. Rep from * to ** 4 times.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Round 4:
- With RS facing, join Color A in the corner sc in any corner.
- *Work 3 sc in the corner, 1 WST in each st across to the next corner sc**. Rep from * to ** 4 times.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Finishing
- Weave in any remaining ends.
- Wet block to shape.
Tranquil Washcloth Photo Tutorial
Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge) and leaving a 4 inch yarn tail:
R1: With Color A: ch 25, sk the first 3 chs (the 3 sk chs count as 1 dc), 1 dc in the 4th ch and in each rem ch across, turn. [23 dc]
R2: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R4: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
If you are changing colors you would change on the last yarn over of the last FPtr from Row 5.
R6: With Color B: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R7: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R8: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R9: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R10: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
If you are changing colors, remember to change colors on the last yarn over of the last stitch of R11.
R12: With Color C: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R13: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R14: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R15: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
If you are changing colors, remember to change colors on the last yarn over of the last stitch of R15.
R16: With Color D: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R17: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc**. Rep from * to ** across to the last sc. 1 dc in the sc, 1 FPtr in the dc beneath the ch1sp, sk the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R18: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R19: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
R20: Ch 1, sk the first st, 1 sc in each dc across, turn. [22 sc, 1 ch1sp]
R21: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc, sk the sc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPtr around the dc beneath the next sc (the dc from R1), sk the sc (from R2)**. Rep from * to ** across to the ch1sp. 1 dc in the ch1sp, turn. [11 FPtr, 12 dc]
Do not finish off.
Weave in any rem ends you have from the first part of the washcloth.
Edging
TIP: I changed color for each section to create the edging in the same color as the row I was working into. The first round of the edging is worked with the wrong side of the project facing you (the back of the project). When I worked my first round of edging, I changed yarn colors for every colored section. You do not need to do this but I think it gives it a more finished look. If you do wish to change colors for each section, change on the last yarn over of the last stitch in the previous color.
This section is written as though you are working the first round of edging in one solid color.
Round 1:
- Remember to turn after R21. Ch 1, work 1 sc in each st across and work 3 sc in the corner.
- Rotate your work to continue crocheting down the side edge.
- Work 29 sc evenly along the side edge and work 3 sc in the corner.
- Rotate to continue crocheting across the bottom edge of R1.
- Work 1 sc in each st across and work 3 sc in the corner.
- Rotate your work to continue crocheting along the other side edge.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Round 2
- You may wish to stop after Round 2 of the edging and that is totally ok!
- With RS (right side) facing, join Color A in the corner sc in any corner.
- *Work 3 sc in the corner, 1 sc in each st across to the next corner sc**. Rep from * to ** 4 times.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Round 3
- This round we work the Waistcoat Stitch – which is basically a single crochet stitch worked into the center of the stitch, instead of under the front and back loops of the stitch. You can view a full tutorial including a video tutorial >HERE<, or see the images below for a quick visual of how to proceed.
- With RS facing, join Color C in the corner sc in any corner.
- *Work 3 sc in the corner, 1 WST in each st across to the next corner sc**. Rep from * to ** 4 times.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Round 4
- With RS facing, join Color A in the corner sc in any corner.
- *Work 3 sc in the corner, 1 WST in each st across to the next corner sc**. Rep from * to ** 4 times.
- Finish off and weave in ends.
Finishing
- Weave in any remaining ends.
- Wet block to shape.
I would like to thank LoveCrafts for sending me the beautiful yarn I used for this project.
For more information about LoveCrafts and Paintbox Yarns, please visit @lovecraftscom on their Website, Facebook, or Instagram.
#paintboxyarns #CALCentral @paintboxyarns #crochet #crochetpattern #washcloth #crochetwashcloth
Nothing makes a crochet project more calming and relaxing than creating something you can use every day. This tranquil washcloth crochet pattern is a breeze to make and features a beautiful textured pattern. Plus, with a step-by-step photo tutorial to follow, you’ll have no trouble elevating your crochet skills. Visit the link to access the free pattern, and let’s get started!
I just love the texture of this stitch. It makes a beautiful washcloth and I’m sure in other projects as well! So Simple too, bonus!!
Hi Nancy, Sorry for the confusion! You need less than 1 single ball of that yarn to make the washcloth in a solid color. It should have said for colors 1 Skein each in then the 4 colors. If you go down to the Total Yardage used it will give you the exact weight of the washcloth and the yardage I used in total for the washcloth. Hope this helps! Rhondda
Just re-read the pattern and realized from Finished Project Yardage that it must be 1 skein of each coour or 4 skeins if doing in single colour.
Supplies says 4 skeins each in…. Does it mean a total of 4 skeins (1 of each colour) or do you really mean 4 skeins of each colour