Santa Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
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Crochet this adorable Santa Amigurumi with my free pattern and Medium Weight Yarn [4]. This fun crochet doll was designed as part of the 12 Weeks of Christmas CAL a few years ago but he is as well loved this year as he has been any year! My children love digging him out of his place in our Christmas Decoration box every winter and he takes his annual place on the living room couch to watch all the Christmas movies and festivities with us every year.
For those of you who are new to making toys, dolls or amigurumi – the yarn you choose is as important as the pattern you choose to follow. You need a dependable yarn, a yarn which is strong (not super soft and fluffy!) and it needs to be able to stand-up to constant handling (little people are going to want to play with their toys!).
My yarn of choice for my Crochet Santa Doll is: Red Heart Super Saver Yarn
Red Heart Super Saver Yarn is available in more than 130 different colors, is machine washable and dryable and the solid colors are available in no-dye lots – which means if you run out – you can just buy more without worrying about matching up your dye lots!
Santa Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
Supplies
- Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Yarn (Colors: Cherry Red, White, Black and Gold) Medium Weight Yarn (364 yds/333 m; 7oz/198g), Red Heart Classic (Color: Sea Coral) Medium Weight Yarn (190 yds/174 m; 3.5oz/100 g), Red Heart Scrubby Sparkle Yarn (Color: Marshmallow) Medium Weight Yarn (174 yd/159 m; 3oz/85 g)
- Hook: 4 mm (G) Clover Soft Touch
- Fiber Fil (stuffing), two 12 mm black safety eyes
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)
Difficulty Level
EASY-INTERMEDIATE
Finished Size
Approximately 12.5 inches tall and 5 inches wide (arms spread is 10 inches)
Gauge
is not really imperative so long as the stitches are close together (no holes)
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
ch – chain
bobble – the bobble stitch is basically a dc5tog worked in a single stitch
dc – double crochet
R – row/round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Special Stitches
Bobble: *Yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the specified stitch, yarn over and pull up 1 loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.** (2 loops remain on the hook). Working into the SAME stitch, repeat from * to ** 3 more times (you now have 5 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on your hook.
Note: The bobble is basically a dc5tog all worked in a single stitch…
Helpful Tutorials
Single crochet joining technique
Notes
- do not slip stitch to join at the end of rounds unless the pattern indicates to do so
- Color A: Sea Coral, Color B: Cherry Red, Color C: Black, Color D: White, Color E: Gold, Color F: Marshmallow
Santa Amigurumi Crochet Pattern Instructions
Just in time for the Christmas! Crochet: Toy Santa with this Free Pattern! #12WeeksChristmasCAL
Santa is crocheted in continuous rounds from the top of his head down to his feet in one piece. You may wish to crochet his beard, mustache and eyebrows before you begin but I recommend sewing them to his head after you attached the eyes and stuffed the head completely.
SANTA’S HEAD
Beginning with Color A (Sea Coral)
R1: MR 6 sc [6]
R2: 2 sc in each st [12]
R3: (2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) rep 6 times around [18]
R4: (2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts) rep 6 times [24]
R5: (2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts) rep 6 times [30]
R6: (2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts) rep 6 times [36]
R7: 1 sc in each st around [36]
R8- R17: Rep R7
R18: (sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts) rep 6 times [30]
Position eyes between rows 9 and 10 between the 20th and 21st st and 23rd and 24th sts. Stuff head firmly to this point.
R19: (sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts) rep 6 times [24]
R20: (sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts) rep 6 times [18]
Stuff head firmly to this point.
R21: (sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) rep 6 times [12]
R22: 1 sc in each st around [12]
SANTA’S BODY
R23: (1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) rep 6 times [18]
R24: (2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st) rep 9 times [27]
R25: 1 sc in each st around. [27]
R26: (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) rep 9 times [36]
R27: (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) rep 9 times [45]
R28: (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) rep 9 times [54]
R29: 1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, ch 3, sk 10 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, ch 3, sk 10 sts. [40]
The skipped 10 sts represent the spots where you will add the arms to Santa.
Note: for R30 you will be working in 1 loop of each of the ch 3 sts (so 6 sc in total)
R30: 1 sc in each st and ch around [40]
R31: 1 sc in each st around [40]
R32: 1 sc in each st around [40]
R33-37 rep R32
R38: 1 sc in each of the next 20 sts. Sc2tog 10 times [30]
R39: 1 sc in each st around, changing to Color B (Cherry Red) on the last yarn over of the last sc [30]
SANTA’S LOWER BODY AND LEG #1
Continuing in Color B (Cherry Red):
R40: 1 sc in each st around [30]
R41-42: Rep R40
R43: 1 sc in each of next 11 sts, sk 14 sts, 1 sc in each of last 5 st [16]
Note: You will continue to ignore the 14 sts you skipped. They represent the spot where you will add the 2nd leg once you finish the first leg and boot.
R44: 1 sc in each st around [16]
R45-R51: rep R44
Note: When I stuffed the leg I did not stuff it too firmly because I wanted him to be able to bend to sit down. If you want him to stand you will need to stuff his leg very firmly or add a reinforced piece of plastic or a wood or plastic dowel up from his foot and through his body to his head (it will keep him ‘stiff’). You will want to stuff the leg now. Use the eraser end of a pencil or the handle of a wooden spoon to push the stuffing firmly up the leg.
R52: 1 sc in each of the next 14 sts. change to Color C (Black) on the last yarn over of the 14th st. Continue working in Color C: 1 sc in each of the last 2 sts. [16]
SANTA’S BOOT #1
Continue working in Color C (Black):
R53: Working in the back loop only of each stitch of this round: 1 sc in each st around. [16]
R54: Working in both loops again: 1 sc in each st around [16]
R55: Rep R54
R56: Working in the front loop only: 2 sc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts [21]
R57: 1 sc in each st around [21]
R58: 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 1sc in each of the next 14 sts [23]
R59: Working in the back loop only: 1 sc in the next 6 sts. sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts [19]
Now finish off with invisible join leaving a long tail for seaming and whipstitch the stitches, down the middle of the sole of the boot together.
Finish off and weave in ends. if you want a more solid base to your foot you can cut a piece of cardboard, or even plastic from a milk jug to the size of the foot and slip it in before you seam it closed.
SANTA’S LEG #2
R1: Join with 1 sc (SEE IMAGE above). Work 1 sc in the first st on the other side and in each of the next 14 sts. [16]
R2: 1 sc in each st around [16]
R3-R10: Rep R2
SANTA’S BOOT #2
R11: Working in the back loop only: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, changing to black on the last yarn over of the third st, Continuing in black: 1 sc in each rem st around. [16]
R12: 1 sc in each st around [16]
R13: rep R12
R14: Working in the front loop only: 2 sc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts [21]
R15: 1 sc in each st around [21]
R16: 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 1sc in each of next 14 sts [23]
R17: Working in the back loop only: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, [19]
Now finish off with invisible join leaving a long tail for seaming and whipstitch the stitches, down the middle of the sole of the boot together.
Finish off and weave in ends. if you want a more solid base to your foot you can cut a piece of cardboard, or even plastic from a milk jug to the size of the foot and slip it in before you seam it closed.
EDGING FOR BOOTS
Locate the unworked front loops of the boots (R53 and R14).
R1: With Color F (Marshmallow), join with 1 sc in the unworked front loop of any stitch in R53 (or R14). Work 1 sc in each unworked front loop around. [21].
R2: Work 1 sc in each st around. [21]
R3: Rep R2. Finish off and weave in ends.
Repeat the process for the second boot.
SANTA’S ARMS
You will be working into the spaces you created in R29 of Santa’s Body.
Starting with either arm and using Color A:
R1: Join with 1 sc in the first st, work an additional 15 sc evenly around [16]
R2: 1 sc in each around [16]
R3: 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, (sc2tog) 3 times, [13]
R4: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts [12]
R5: 1 sc in each st around [12]
R6-11: rep R5
R12: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts; sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts [10]
R13: 1 sc in each st around [10]
R14: 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts [9]
R15: (Sc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in the last st [5]
Finish off and leave a tail to weave through the remaining stitches to cinch close. (Need help? View this tutorial: Simple Closing Technique)
Repeat this process for the 2nd arm.
BEARD
With Color D (White):
Bobble: *Yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the specified stitch, yarn over and pull up 1 loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.** (2 loops remain on the hook). Working into the SAME stitch, repeat from * to ** 3 more times (you now have 5 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on your hook.
Note: The bobble is basically a dc5tog all worked in a single stitch…
R1: Ch 22, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each st across, turn (21)
R2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), *1 bobble in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** across, turn. (10 bobbles, 1 hdc)
R3: Ch 1, 1 sl st in each of the next 5 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 11 sts, 1 sl st in each of next 5 sts, turn (10 sl sts, 11 hdc)
R4: Ch 1, 1 sl st in each of the next 5 sts, 1 hdc in the next st, *1 bobble in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 5 times. 1 sl st in each of the last 5 sts. Turn. (10 sl st, 5 bobbles, 1 hdc)
R5: Ch 1, 1 sl st in each of the next 7 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts, 1 sl st in each of the next 7 sts, turn (14 sl st, 7 hdc)
R6: Ch 1, 1 sl st in each of the next 7 sts, 1 hdc in the next st, *1 bobble in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 3 times. 1 sl st in each of the last 7 sts. Finish off and weave in ends. (14 sl st, 3 bobbles, 1 hdc)
EYEBROWS
With Color D (White)
Make 2
R1: Ch 4, sk 1st, ch, 1 sl st in each of the next 3 chs. Finish off, leave a long tail for assembly.
MUSTACHE
With Color D (White).
The Mustache is worked in 2 pieces.
Make 2:
Working in back bump
R1: Ch 6, sk 1ch, 1 sc in the next ch, 1 sl st in each of the next 4 chs, Ch 3, sk 1 ch, and work 1 sl st in each of the 2 rem chs. Rotate your work to crochet along the base of the initial ch 6. You will be working in the front loop (this is the loop closest to you of the remaining loops of the initial ch 6). 1 sl st in the base of 5 chs, 1 sl st in the initial sc. Finish off weave in ends.
NOSE
With Color A (Sea Coral):
R1: MR: 5 sc, [5]
R2: 1 sc in each st around [5]
R3: 1 sl st in each st around, finish off leaving a long tail for attaching to the face [5]
Assemble facial features using this image as a guide:
HAT
With Color B (Cherry Red).
The hat is worked from the forehead to the crown of the hat and the white edging is added on after the main hat is complete.
R1: Ch 42, sk 3 (counts as 1 dc but you will not be working into the ch 3). 1 dc in the next ch, 1 dc in each rem ch across. Bring the two ends together and sl st into the first dc of the row. [40]
R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around and 1 dc in the sl st. Sl st to the 1st dc to join. [40]
R3 & R4: Rep R2
R5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around, finish with a sl st in the first dc to join. [30]
R6: Rep R2
R7: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc2tog. * 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around, finish with a sl st in the first dc to join. [20]
R8: Rep R2
R9: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around, finish with a sl st in the first dc to join. [15]
R10- R11: Rep R2
R12: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around, finish with a sl st in the first dc to join [12]
R13: Rep R2
R14: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc2tog. *1 dc in the next st, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around, finish with a sl st in the first dc to join. Finish off leaving a long tail for closing the hat. [8]
POM POM for Hat
Make a small pom pom for the top of Santa’s hat.
This is how I made mine:
Wrap the yarn around the tines of a fork 40 times. Tie securely down the middle and the two outer edges. Trim neatly and attach to hat.
Never worked around a fork? Check out Maria’s Tutorial here:
How to Make a Mini Pom Pom (she has a video tutorial link available too)
HAT EDGING
With Color F (Marshmallow):
R1: Join with 1 sc in the base of any stitch in R1 of the Hat. Work 1 sc in each rem st around. [40]
R2: 1 sc in each st around, finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [40]
Santa’s Coat
Santa’s Coat is designed to be removable because my children want to take Santa’s coat off and put it back on, when they are playing. If you would like to keep Santa in his coat forever, feel free to whip stitch up the center seam to make it stay on like a pullover instead of a coat.
SLEEVES FOR COAT
Make 2
Working with Color B (Cherry Red):
R1: Ch 15, sl st to 1st ch to join. [15]
Continue working in rounds
R2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), 1 hdc in each rem st around, sl st to the top of ch 2 to join [15]
R3-6: Rep R2. Finish off and weave in ends.
SLEEVE EDGING
Work in Red Heart Scrubby Sparkle Yarn. This edging is worked in R1 of the sleeve (not R6).
R1: Join with 1 sc in the base of any stitch in R1. 1 sc in each st around. [15]
R2: 1 sc in each st around [15]
R3: Rep R2. Finish off and weave in ends.
COAT
Part A
R1: RS: Ch 45, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (the sk 3 ch count as 1 dc), 1 dc in each rem st across, turn [43]
R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st across, turn [43]
R3-5: rep R2
R6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc2tog, 1 dc in each of the next 5 sts, sk all rem sts, turn. [7]
R7: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 7 sts, turn [7]
R8-R9: Rep R7 [7] finish off leaving a long tail for seaming
Part B
With WS facing (if you turn after R9 you will have the WS facing)
R1: Sk 4 sts and join with 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 sts, dc2tog work 1 dc in each of the next 5 sts, dc2tog, 1 dc in the next st, turn [16]
R2: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st across, turn [16]
R3-4: Rep R2 [16], finish off leaving a tail for seaming.
With WS facing (if you turn after R4 you will have the WS facing again).
Part C
R1: Sk 4 sts and join with 1 dc in the next st. Work 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of the next 5 sts, turn. [7]
R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st across, turn [7]
R3-R4: Rep R2 finish off leaving a long tail for seaming [7]
ASSEMBLE COAT AND SLEEVES
Step 1: Place your sweater body on a flat surface with the right side (RS) facing up. Now put the 2 sleeves you made in the holes we left for the arms. The wrist (R1 of the sleeve – or if you have already added your edging it is the round with the edging on it) is furthest from the actual sweater – so closest to you if you are looking down at the sweater.
Step 2: Fold the front of the sweater ‘closed’ and keep the sleeves in the armholes.
Step 3: Whipstitch the sleeves to the coat as shown in the image above. I worked through 1 loop of the sweater and 1 loop of the coat only, for each stitch around.
Step 4: Shows sleeve sewn to coat.
Step 5: Shows both sleeves sewn on.
EDGING FOR COAT
With Color F (Marshmallow):
R1: Join with 1 sc in any outer edge stitch of the coat. Work 1 sc in each st, 2 sc in each row end and 3 sc in each corner around.
R2: Work 1 sc in every st around, 3 sc in each corner, around.
R3 & R4: Rep R2. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends.
BELT
(approximately 11 inches long)
With Color C (Black):
R1: Ch 4, sk 1 ch, 1 sc in each of rem ch across, ch 1, turn [3]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [3]
R3-41: Rep R2; finish off leaving a tail for seaming the two ends (R1 and R41) together with a whipstitch seam.
BUCKLE
With Color C (Black):
R1: Ch 3, sk 1 ch, 1 sc in each rem ch across, ch 1, turn [3]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 2, rotate to work along the outside of the square.
Buckle Edging Black: 1 sc in each row end, ch 2 at the corner and 1 sc in each st around back to the first sc of the edging round. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends.
With Color E (Gold):
Join with 1 sc in any corner ch2sp and work 2 more sc in the same ch2sp. Work 1 sc in each st and 3 sc in each ch2sp around back to the first sc of the edging 2 round. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends.
Finishing
Weave in any remaining ends. Dress Santa in his snazzy coat and slide the belt over his little belly. Place his dapper little hat on his head and give him a hug!
I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern! Please take the time to favorite and queue this design on Ravelry. Thank you 🙂
#yarnspirations #redheartyarn #cloveramour #amigurumi #crochetsanta #santadoll #amigurumidoll #Christmas #ChristmasCrochet #crochetpattern #crochet
Happy crocheting!
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Let me know if you run into any questions 🙂
Ahhh…yes, that makes sense. Will attack it again this morning! Thank you Rhondda.
Hi Margie, The extra ch 3 is what is causing the confusion I think 🙂 Ok so we have our initial ch 6, sk 1, 1 sl st in each of the next 4. You have now exhausted all the chs in the initial ch 6 and are at the end of the ‘row’. Now ch 3. This is giving you the little curl on the end of his moustache. You sk 1 of those new chs (from the ch 3) and work 1 sl st in the rem 2 chs (from the ch 3). Now you rotate to work along the bottom of the initial ch 6 on your way back to the beginning of the row. This help? I hope 🙂 All the best, Rhondda
Hi Rhondda, i’m working on the Santa now. But I’m having a problem on the moustache.
R1: Ch 6, sk 1ch, 1 sc in the next ch, 1 sl st in each of the next 4 chs, Ch 3, sk 1 ch, and work 1 sl st in each of the 2 rem chs. Rotate your work to crochet along the base of the initial ch 6. You will be working in the front loop (this is the loop closest to you of the remaining loops of the initial ch 6). 1 sl st in the base of 5 chs, 1 sl st in the initial sc. Finish off weave in ends.
The first row uses 1 (skipped sititch) + 1 (sc) + 4 (Slip stitches) then chain 3 then 1 (skipped stitch) then 2 (slip stiches in remaining 2 chains) which all equels 9 stitches worked but you only have 6 original chains. I’m confused. 🙂 Thanks for your help.