Tiger Lily Amigurumi – Pocket Yarnlings
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Huipei from Pocket Yarnlings is joining us today! Huipei is sharing her Tiger Lily Amigurumi Pattern with us today, for free in the post below.
Meet Huipei from Pocket Yarlings
Hi, I’m Huipei from Pocket Yarnlings! I’m a practicing family physician hailing from sunny Singapore, mother to a 3-year-old daughter, and an avid self-taught crocheter for the past 6 years.
I enjoy working with miniature amigurumis and am a huge geek, often drawing inspiration from various geeky characters. Of late, most of my inspiration mostly comes from my daughter and her toy preferences!
When I’m not playing with my daughter or seeing patients, I sometimes indulge in crocheting little yarnlings and making stop motion animations of them.
Website: https://www.pocketyarnlings.com/
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The Pattern
This pattern is named Tiger Lily and it is my very first self-concocted design. I previously used to crochet a lot of various geeky characters that I love and of late, I have decided to try and come up with more of my own designs. Tiger Lily was inspired by my daughter in her tiger suit pajamas which she loves a lot!
She is made up of a basic amigurumi body, which is one of the 9 body designs in my ‘Making Basic Amigurumi Bodies’ ebook and a tiger suit which is then layered on top of it. She is able to stand on her own because of her 2 feet as well as the tiger tail at the back which acts as a posterior support.
She works up really fast in 3 parts – the body is in one continuous stitch with no sewing, the hair wig cap is sewed on separately and the tiger suit is then crocheted around the main body!
Tiger Lily Pattern
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Supplies
- Yarn: Orion Top Deluxe Yarn. Sport Weight Yarn [2]. 150 g (5.29 oz) and 570 m (623 yds). 100% Acrylic. Machine wash, lay flat to dry.
- Colors: 1 skein each in black, beige, orange and white
- Hook: 2 mm
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Markers, Polyester Fiberfill, Glass Eyes or Safety Eyes X 4, Measuring Tape
Find my favorite crochet and craft supplies here!
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Finished Size
Approximately 8 cm height X 4 cm width
Gauge
30st and 40 rows = 10cm measured over sc
Note: Generally for my ami projects, I don’t specify a gauge because it is not critical but I do crochet quite tightly.
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
Our Crochet Translation Project offers translations in many languages.
Check out the Basic Crochet Terms in 10 languages here.
U.S. Terminology used
2sc – single crochet increase (make 2 sc in one st)
Bob – 3dc bobble stitch (*see special stitches)
ch(s) – chain(s)
dc – double crochet
dc2tog1 – double crochet decrease
dc3tog1 – double crochet 3 together (*see special stitches)
dc6tog1 – double crochet 6 together (*see special stitches)
g – grams
hdc – half double crochet
m – meters
oz – ounces
Picot – picot stitch (*see special stitches)
Pop – popcorn stitch (*see special stitches)
sc – single crochet
Sc2tog1 – single crochet decrease
sk – skip
sl st– slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
surface sc – surface single crochet (*see special stitches)
tr – treble crochet
tr5tog1 – treble cluster stitch (*see special stitches)
yds – yards
yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog1)
yo, insert hook in indicated, yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2, [yo, insert hook in next, yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2] 2 times, (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops on hook
Double Crochet 6 Together (dc6tog1)
yo, insert hook in indicated, yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2, [yo, insert hook in next, yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2] 5 times, (7 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops on hook
3dc Bobble Stitch (Bob)
yo, insert hook in indicated, yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, [yo, insert hook in same, yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times, yo, pull through 4 loops on hook
Treble Cluster Stitch (tr5tog1)
yo twice, insert hook in indicated, yo, pull up loop, [(yo, draw through 2 loops) twice] 5 times all in same st, pull through all 6 loops on hook
Popcorn Stitch (Pop)
3hdc in indicated, remove hook from loop, insert hook through 1st hdc of 3-hdc group, replace loop on hook, yo, draw tightly through loop and st on hook
Surface Single Crochet (surface sc)
holding working yarn behind piece, hook in front of piece, insert hook through piece, yo, pull yarn through piece, proceed to sc
Picot Stitch (picot)
Ch3, sl st into first ch made
Helpful Tutorials
Bobble Stitch for arms:
https://www.pocketyarnlings.com/blog/making-bobble-stitches-as-amigurumi-limbs
Making Popcorn Stitch for feet:
https://www.pocketyarnlings.com/blog/making-popcorn-stitches-as-amigurumi-feet
Surface Crochet for sleeves:
https://www.pocketyarnlings.com/blog/surface-crochet-for-limb-attachment
Crochet Cheat Sheet | Magic Ring Tutorial | Invisible Join Tutorial | Double Magic Ring Tutorial
Notes
- The number following the stitch “sc” is the number of times you will crochet that stitch. For example: sc10 means crochet 10 sc, or crochet 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts; sc8 means crochet 8 sc, or crochet 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts; sc4 means crochet 4 sc, or crochet 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts.
- The same is true for increase stitches, decrease stitches and special stitches. For example: 2sc10 means work 2 sc in the same stitch, 10 times; or crochet 2 sc in each of the next 10 sts. Sc2tog4 means decrease 4 times, or sc2tog 4 times.
- Get the ad-free PDF of this pattern here
Tiger Lilly Pattern
Using your 2 mm hook (or size required for gauge):
Head
Round 1: Magic ring 10 (black) – 10st
Round 2: 2sc10 (black) – 20st
Round 3: Sc20 (black) – 20st
Round 4: (Sc1, 2sc1) x 4 (black), (sc1, 2sc1) x 4 (beige), (sc1, 2sc1) x 2 (black) – 30st
Round 5: Sc12 (black), sc12 (beige), sc6 (black) – 30st
Round 6: (Sc1, sc2tog1) x 4 (black), (sc1, sc2tog1) x 4 (beige), (sc1, sc2tog1) x 2 (black) – 20st
Insert safety eyes centered in beige portion 3 st apart.
Round 7: Sc8 (black), sc8 (beige), sc4 (black) – 20st
Round 8: Sc2tog4 (black), sc2tog4 (beige), sc2tog2 (black) – 10st
Lightly stuff.
Round 9: Sc2tog5 (beige) – 5st
Body (continue from head) – all beige
Continue from head using beige yarn.
Round 10: 2sc5 – 10st
Round 11: 2sc10 – 20st
Round 12: Sc9, (sc1, ch6, 3dc bob in 3rd ch from hook, sl st 3, sc1) 1st arm made, sc8, (sc1, ch6, 3dc bob in 3rd ch from hook, sl st 3, sc1) 2nd arm made, sc1 – 22st, 2 arms
Round 13: Sc9, skip 1 st, sc10, skip 1 st, sc1 – 20st
Round 14: Sc2tog10 – 10st
Round 15: Sc10 – 10st
Round 16: Repeat round 15 – 10st
Lightly stuff.
Round 17 left leg (all beige): Sc2, (working in 3rd and 8th st, sl st together, skipping all others, 2sc1), sc1 – 5st
Round 18: Sc5 – 5st
Round 19-21: Repeat round 17 – 5st
Placement of popcorn may need to be adjusted so foot is facing forward.
Round 22: 3hdc pop, sl st 1and end off – 2st
Fasten off, weave in ends. This forms the left leg.
With left foot facing downward, join up in Round 16 of body.
Round 17 right leg (all beige): (Insert hook in 4th and 7th sts of Round 16, sl st together, 2sc1), sc3 – 5st
The hook should be inserted into 2 opposite loops closest to the left leg.
Round 18: Sc5 – 5st
Round 19-21: Repeat round 18 – 5st
Placement of popcorn may need to be adjusted so foot is facing forward.
Round 22: Sc1, 3hdc pop, sl st 1 and end off – 3st
Fasten off, weave in ends. This forms the right leg.
Wig cap – black
Row 1: Ch8
Row 2: [(Sc1, ch20), sl st 1 into sc just made], repeat 7 times, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain – 14st
Row 3: [(Sc1, ch20), sl st 1 into sc just made], repeat 7 times – 14st
Attach wig cap onto head by aligning the main chain (above) onto the head midline or the centre hair parting. Sew down all the individual chain loops down at the bottom to form a bob-like hairstyle. Add on bangs over fringe-area of face by sewing down yarn individually over forehead.
Hood
Row 1: Ch11 (orange)
Row 2: Sc9 (orange), 3sc1 (orange), rotating as you go, work into the other side of chain, sc9 (orange), ch1 and turn – 21st
Row 3: Sc21 (orange), ch1 and turn – 21st
Row 4-5: Repeat row 3 – 21st
Row 6: Sc8 (orange), (3dc1, picot, 3dc1) (orange), sc3 (orange), (3dc1, picot, 3dc1) (orange), sc8 (orange), ch1 and turn (orange) – 31st
Row 7: Sc8 (orange), dc6tog1 and miss picot (white), sc3 (orange), dc6tog1 and miss picot (white), sc8 (orange), ch1 and turn (orange) – 21st
Row 8: Sc21 (orange), ch1 and turn – 21st
Row 9-12: Repeat row 8 – 21st
Row 13: Sc20 (orange), 3sc1 in last st (orange), rotate and continue next row along row edges directly perpendicular to Row 13 – 21st (excluding last 2st, to be counted in next row)
Row 14: Sc23 (orange), ch2 and turn – 25st (including last 2st from Row 13)
Row 15: Dc2 (orange), dc3tog7 (orange), dc2 (orange) – 11st
Place the hood over the head with the hair already attached.
Join last st made to first st of Row 15 and place stitch marker here to mark beginning of rounds.
Bodysuit (continue from hood) – all orange
Continue with bodysuit with head and body placed within the hood and bodysuit respectively.
Round 16: Sc2, 2sc7, sc2 – 18st (count in rounds now, not rows)
Round 17: Sc18 – 18st
Round 18: Sc3, ch3, skip 3st and wrap around arm, sc6, ch3, skip 3st and wrap around arm, sc3 – 12st
Round 19: Sc3, sc3 across ch, sc6, sc3 across chain, sc3 – 18st
Round 20: Sc18 – 18st
Round 21: Repeat round 20 – 18st
Round 22 left trouser leg (all orange): Sc8, [insert hook through 9th st and directly opposite in 1st st in the round (where stitch marker currently placed), sl st together], sc1 – 9st
Re-position stitch marker here as start of round.
Round 23: 2sc1, sc7 – 9st
Round 24: Sc9 – 9st
Round 25: Sc2tog4, sc1 and end off – 5st
Fasten off. This forms the left pants, on top of left leg.
Continue from Round 21 of bodysuit. Rotate body so both feet are facing downwards.
Round 22 right trouser leg (all orange): (Insert hook into 2 opposite loops closest to the left trouser leg, sl st together), 2sc1, sc7 in the round – 9st
Re-position stitch marker here as start of round.
Round 23: Sc9 – 9st
Round 24: Repeat round 23 – 9st
Round 25: Sc1, sc2tog4 and end off – 5st
Fasten off. This forms the right pants, on top of right leg.
Sleeves for bodysuit x 2 – orange
Round 1: Surface sc6 starting from back of arm, in clockwise direction when body is in upright position – 6st
Round 2: Sc6 – 6st
Repeat for both the left and right arms to form the sleeves for the bodysuit.
Finishing Instructions
Tiger parts
1) Snout
Round 1: With white yarn and working into magic ring [sc5 (white), sc3 (orange)] – 8st
Round 2: Sc1 (white), tr5tog1 (white), sl st 1 (white), tr5tog1 (white), sc1 (white), sc3 (orange) – 8st
Round 3: Sl st 1 (white) and end off – 1st
Fasten off.
The tiger snout is to be attached to the bottom-most edge of anterior hood lining.
Use black yarn to embroider 2 whiskers over either side of white snout.
2) Nose – black
Row 1: Ch3
Row 2: Sl st 1, dc1 – 2st
Make into an inverted triangle, use tail to create a black line vertically down the snout from nose in midline, extending downwards and sew in place.
3) Eyes x 2 – white
Row 1: Ch2
Row 2: (Hdc1, sl st 1) in 2nd ch from hook – 2st
Place glass or safety eyes in middle of tiger eyes. Sew right above tiger nose and snout.
4) Tiger suit belly – white
Round 1: Ch4
Round 2: Sc2, 3sc1, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, sc1, 2sc1 – 8st
Round 3: Sc3, 2sc1, sc3, 2sc1 – 10st
Round 4: Sl st 1 and end off – 1st
Fasten off. Sew belly in the middle of the bodysuit, just above legs.
5) Tail – orange
Round 1: With orange yarn, work into magic ring [sc3 (orange)] – 3st
Round 2: Sc3 – 3st
Round 3-10: Repeat round 2 – 3st
Sew tail at the back of the bodysuit, centred and just above legs. Use black yarn to embroider short stripes over tail, spanning 1-3st at random intervals.
6) Tiger stripes – black
Use black yarn to embroider on black stripes (use photograph as a guide):
Hood
2 whiskers over either side of white snout
3 whiskers over each side of hood, away from the snout
Bodysuit
1 stripe over each shoulder
3 stripes over each side of body, front overlapping with the belly and extending to the sides just below both armpits
4 stripes over back at random lengths spanning 2-4st
6 stripes over each leg, 3 at the front and 3 at the back
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