Soft Cotton Sunhat Pattern
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This Soft Cotton Sunhat Pattern is perfect for those dealing with hair loss, providing full coverage for the scalp and the base of the hairline. Using soft cotton yarn for this project makes the fabric more breathable and perfect for warmer weather. Get the free crochet pattern available in my post and make this beautiful sunhat for someone special today.
This post includes the written instructions for my Soft Cotton Sunhat Pattern. This simple summer sunhat is crocheted in soft cotton yarn.
Soft Cotton Sunhat Pattern
A Summer Chemo Cap
The Soft Cotton Sunhat Pattern has been designed as a summer chemo cap and is sized to reach the edge of the hairline. I have also tried to decrease the spaces between the stitches as much as possible to provide a hat that will give full coverage for the scalp. Making this design in cotton yarn makes the finished hat breathable and perfect for warmer weather.
The brim is soft enough that you can fold it up or even add a pin, or brooch (or button) to secure it on an angle at the front. I have included a pattern for a carnation flower embellishment for those of you who would like a flower to add to the sunhat. This extra bit is included at the end of the post.
If you would like to shorten the overall hat height, please skip Rounds 15 and Round 16 before finishing the hat pattern. This will decrease the sunhat to approximately 6.5 inches in height.
Sunhat Crochet Pattern
Supplies
- Yarn: Red Heart Scrubby Smoothie. 3.5 oz (100g) and 153 yd (140 m). Medium Weight Yarn [4]. 100% Cotton. Color: Loofah. I used 4.6 oz (130 g); 199 yards (182 m).
- Crochet Hook: 5 mm (H). I used my Furls Streamline Hook (Ebony).
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)
Recommended Yarn Substitutions for Red Heart Scrubby Smoothie:
- Wool and the Gang: Shiny Happy Cotton, (100g/142m)
- Yarn and Colors: Epic, 100% Cotton. 50 g, 75 m (85 yds)
Difficulty Level
- Easy
Finished Size
- Adult
Gauge
- approximately 7 sts in 2 inches
- approximately 2 rounds in pattern stitch per inch
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- DMR – double magic ring
- R – row
- rem – remaining
- rep – repeat
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- st/sts – stitch/stitches
- * ** Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
- () – Instructions being work into a single stitch or space
- [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Helpful Tutorials
EXTRA CROCHET GOODIES
Notes
- initial ch 3 counts as 1 dc (and you work into it as a dc)
- project is worked in rounds but after R7 you must remember to turn your work at the end of the round
- you can alternately begin the hat using a ch 4 and sl st to join into a ring (instead of using the DMR or magic ring)
This hat was designed to be longer to fit to the nape of the neck before the brim was added. This will cover a chemotherapy patient’s hairline completely and protect the head from the sun. The brim is soft and can be folded up.
TIP: If you want to make this into an adult sunhat that goes to the top of the ear and then has the brim, please skip round 15 and round 16. Then work R17 to the end of the hat.
Soft Cotton Sunhat Adult Size (Medium)
- Finished hat size: 22″ circumference, 7.5″ height without brim (2 inches).
- To fit 22-24″ head size.
R1: RS: DMR: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) , 11 dc in the DMR. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [12]
R2: (Ch 3 and 1 dc) in the top of the first dc. 2 dc in each rem dc around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [24]
R3: (Ch 3 and 1 dc) in the top of the first dc. 1 dc in the next dc. *2 dc in the next dc, 1 dc in the next dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [36]
R4: (Ch 3 and 1 dc) in the top of the first dc. 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc. *2 dc in the next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [48]
R5: (Ch 3 and 1 dc) in the top of the first dc. 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc. *2 dc in the next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [60]
R6: (Ch 3 and 1 dc) in the top of the first dc. 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc. *2 dc in the next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [72]
R7: (Ch 3 and 4 dc) in the first dc. Sk 5 dc. *5 dc in the next dc, sk 5 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. TURN. [60]
From this point forward we will be working into the round 2 rounds prior.
So, for Round 8, you are working into the stitches that were skipped in round 6.
For Round 9, you are working into the stitches that were skipped in round 7.
For Round 10, you are working into the stitches that were skipped in round 8…and so on.
R8: Working around the previous round, 5 dc in the center dc one round below the previous round. Sk the next 5 dc. *5 dc in the center dc one round below the previous round, sk the next 5 dc**. Rep from * to ** acround. Sl st to the top of first dc to join. TURN. [60]
Note: For Round 8 you are working around the previous round (which is round 7) into a dc from round 6 (the center dc – in the set of 5 dc you skipped in round 7).
The purple stitch in the image below is the center (3rd) dc in a set of 5 skipped dc from round 6.
R9: (Did you remember to turn your work?) Working around the previous round (ch 3 and 4 dc) in the center dc from one round below the previous round (see the purple stitch in the image above). Sk the next 5 dc and work *5 dc in the center dc one round below the previous round, sk 5 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the first dc to join. TURN. [60]
R10: Working around the previous round, 5 dc in the center dc one round below the previous round. Sk the next 5 dc. *5 dc in the center dc one round below the previous round, sk the next 5 dc**. Rep from * to ** acround. Sl st to the top of the first dc to join. TURN. [60]
R11-16: Rep R9 and R10 R17: Rep R9 Do Not Join. Do Not Turn.
R18: 1 sc in each of the next 5 dc. Working around the previous round, 1 sc in the center dc one round below. *1 sc in each of the next 5 dc, 1 sc in the center dc one round below**. Rep from * to ** around. [72]
R19: *1 sc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc**. Rep from * to ** around. [84]
R20-25: 1 sc in each sc around. [84]
R26: *1 sc in each of the next 6 sc, 2 sc in the next sc**. Rep from * to ** around. [96]
R27: 1 sl st in each st around. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [96]
Crochet Carnation Flower Pattern
The flower is worked in rounds and crocheted in 4 pieces. Once the pieces are complete, they are stacked and sewn together to form the finished layered flower.
Notes:
If you do not want to use a DMR or Magic Ring, substitute the following:
- Flower A: Ch 3, 1 sl st to the first ch to form a ring
- Flower B: Ch 5, 1 sl st to the first ch to form a ring
- Flower C: Ch 7, 1 sl st to the first ch to form a ring
- Flower D: Ch 8, 1 sl st to the first ch to form a ring
- If you chain tightly you may need to add a few extra chains to give you the room you need to work the petals into the ring.
- Be sure you slide the petals to create room in the ring but do not work any on top of the previously petals you have crocheted for the ring.
- If you find you are overlapping petals please add more chains to your initial ring.
- Only Flower A needs the center to be closed tightly.
- The rest may have a small hole left in the ring so long as you have woven the ends in to make that ring secure.
Flower A
R1: DMR: *1 sc, ch 3, 1 sl st to the first ch to form a picot**. Rep from * to ** 6 times. [6 petals]
Finish off and weave in ends.
Flower B
R1: DMR: 8 sc. [8]
R2: *1 sc in the next sc. Ch 4, 1 sl st to the 3rd ch, ch 1, 1 sl st to the 1st ch**. Rep from * to ** 8 times, finishing with 1 sl st to the first sc to join. [8 petals]
Finish off and weave in ends.
Flower C
R1: DMR: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 13 dc. [14]
R2: *1 sc in the next dc. Ch 4, 1 sl st to the 3rd ch, ch 1, 1 sl st to the 1st ch**. Rep from * to ** 14 times, finishing with 1 sl st to the first dc to join. [14 petals]
Finish off and weave in ends.
Flower D
R1: DMR: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 27 dc. [28]
R2: *1 sc in the next dc. Ch 4, 1 sl st to the 3rd ch, ch 1, 1 sl st to the 1st ch**. Rep from * to ** 28 times, finishing with 1 sl st to the first dc to join. [28 petals]
Finish off and leave a 8 to 10 inch tail of yarn for assembly.
Proceed to Finishing Instructions for the Flower.
Finishing Instructions for the Crocheted Carnation Flower
- Take the yarn end left from Flower D and weave it into the middle hole for the flower, going from bottom to top.
- Place Flower C on top and thread the needle through the center of Flower C.
- Thread the needle through the center of Flower B and then through the center of Flower A.
- They will now be stacked one on top of each other.
- Thread the needle through from top to bottom (from Flower A to Flower D) to secure the center of the flower together 4 times (changing the position of the needle slightly to work around the petal to hold it in position.).
- Pinch the back of the flower (and all 4 layers) to shape it slightly and then sew that shape into place like this:
- Attach the flower securely to the hat through the back 2 Flower layers (the double crochet rounds) without sewing the actual petals to the hat.
And you’re done!
Add your finished project photo to your Ravelry Project Page here.
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Hi Suezann, At the end of Round 7, you need to turn your work.
Then in Round 8 you will be working into the stitches you skipped from Round 6.
You can see an example photo for the first set of 5 dc.
Image: https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Simple-Cotton-Sunhat-Pattern.-Oombawka-Design-Crochet.jpg
The second image says ‘ch 3’ but if you look at the stitch it actually is a double crochet stitch. I made a mistake in the image calling it a ch 3.
In Round 9 you do not begin with a ch 3. After Round 7 you do not start a round with a ch 3.
I apologize for the confusion that the image has caused.
I hope I’ve explained everything you need for the pattern.
Best wishes,
Rhondda
Hi Suezann, You can try going up a hook size. The gauge is approximately 7 sts in 2 inches and 2 rounds in an inch. I hate frogging too! Rhondda
Next Question.
For Row 7 you chain 3 to start the shell. In Row 8 you do not. But in row 9 you do it again. Why the difference?
Looking at the 2nd picture after round 8, the print on the picture says to join with a slip stitch to the top of chain 3, but before that in the actual instructions for Round 8, it says to join to the top of the 1st double crochet
I am using an acrylic worsted weight yarn with an H hook, but after row 12 I tried it on and it is too small. I hated frogging rows 7 to 12, but I had to. Any suggestions to make it larger?
You are very welcome Julie!
Thank you Rhonnda
I thought for sure I was messing up 😀 thank you for such a beautiful hat! I am making it for a friend that has lost her hair due to chemo!
Yes! There is a Printer on the floating sidebar (icon second from the bottom), or at the end of my post the social share buttons there is a Print button – it opens up a new window using a pop-up though so if you have pop-ups disabled on your browser you have to go to the top of the screen in the little URL section where it has the website link and look for the icon there that is asking you if you want to allow the pop up window to open. If you hover over those it tells you what those icons mean. It opens in printfriendly and you can delete stuff you don’t want in your copy like photos or the chatty bits of the post – you can make the font size larger or smaller and it removes all the ads automatically. Hope this helps! This post might help:
https://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/how-to-make-a-pdf-from-any-post-online/ The image that shows you the top of a browser window – the little icon on the far right is a star (that let’s you bookmark the page) but if you see one beside it after you click ‘print’ that might be the pop-up ‘warning’ one that you can click to allow the pop-up once. Usually you have to try to click the printer button one more time afterwards to make it open 🙂 hope this clears things up! Best Wishes, Rhondda
Maybe I missed it but is there a way to print this pattern off?
Hi Julie,You will have 60 sts at the end of Round 7. So (5 dc in the first st, sk 5 dc) 12 times around. I apologize for not including that in the instructions! Best wishes, Rhondda
How many stitches should we have at the end of row 7! I had 72 at the end of row 6 but 60 at the end of row 7?
Just want to make sure I am doing this correctly 🤪
Hi Becky, What part of the pattern are you having trouble with. I don’t currently have a video filmed for this but I can try to add one in the future. Maybe I can assist you with the part you need help understanding. Let me know 🙂 Best wishes, Rhondda
Hi I am trying to follow your pattern . IF you had a video I would be able to follow the pattern so much easier. Will one be out for this hat anytime soon and where could I find it? Thank you
Hi Angela, You would need to work into the stitches that you didn’t work into in Round 7. So in Rnd 7 you skipped some of the Rnd 6 stitches. This left a big triangle space. For Rnd 8 you work into those skipped stitches from Rnd 6. There is a photo in my blog post that should help you. It is found after the instructions for Round 7. It shows you the stitches in Rnd 6 that we skipped in Round 7. Hope this helps, Rhondda
Hi Rhondda,
I’m not understanding that in Row 8, we are to work into the skipped stitches from Row 6. However, the instructions from Row 6 say, “R6: (Ch 3 and 1 dc) in the top of the first dc. 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc. *2 dc in the next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [72]” I do not see (nor did I make) any spaces in that row. What am I missing?
Hi Zoe, I’ve updated the pattern – it should say Repeat R9 but do not turn and do not join. Hope this helps! Thank you for letting me know there is a problem!! Rhondda
I am having difficulty sorting out how to do row 17:
R17: (Ch 3 and 4 dc) in the first dc. Sk 5 dc. *5 dc in the next dc, sk 5 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Do Not Join. Do Not Turn
Do you still work into the row below? This seems a bit uneven. Can someone please help?
Thank you, thank you for including a summer hat. I live in Florida and have no use for a winter hat. I can’t wait to begin.
Hi Kim,
I rewrote that bit in the pattern to try to help everyone understand what I was trying to say. I hope the rewrite makes more sense!
We will be working into the round 2 rounds prior once we reach Round 8 and going forward for the shell stitches. So, for Round 8, you are working into the stitches that were skipped in round 6. For Round 9, you are working into the stitches that were skipped in round 7. For Round 10, you are working into the stitches that were skipped in round 8…
I also rewrote Round 7 to make the repeat sections more clear as Round 9 so we are repeating R9 and R10 instead.
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Thanks! Rhondda
Hi Sherry, No video. I will add it to my list of videos to make though. For Round 8, you are working in between the sets of 5 dc (shells) from round 7 and making your stitches into the dc in round 6 (so 2 rounds previous). In round 7 you skipped 5 dc in between each set of 5 you crocheted. Those skipped 5 are the dc stitches I am referring to. You will crochet into the 3rd dc in those sets of 5 to make the shells (5 dc) for this round. You work around round 7 to do this so it is enclosed in the stitches. Hope this helps! Rhondda
I need help with Row 8 — I think. Is there a video somewhere to show how to begin that row? I am assuming it’s partof what the 2 pics in the middle of the pattern are about with the “purple” skipped stitch, etc? All greek to me.
When doing a repeat though of round 7, what DC am I working into? The center of the below row as in row 8?
Hi Becky, I’m happy that explanation helped 🙂 There are so many ways to write things out – it is hard to know which way to present the information sometimes 🙂 All the best, Rhondda
I had the same problem as Janice. It was in my interpretation of the instructions. I thought the center dc in round 8 meant the center dc of the shell–not in between the shells. Thank you for making that more clear. I was about to abandon my work.
Thank you so much for such a beautiful and well written pattern! I had a hat very much like this when I was a teen 40 yrs ago. I have been looking and looking for a pattern like it for a while now as this hat never goes out of style. The hat turned out better than I would have ever thought. You made it so easy! Thanks!!
Hi Jan 🙂 I’m so happy it worked out for you and that you like it as the beanie too 🙂 Thank you for letting me know – I always wonder how things go after I respond to people and most do not ‘respond’ to the response 🙂 so thank you! Have a lovely week, Rhondda
rhonda
i was turning, i just didnt gather the two rows together. it was in the translation…..and somewhere from the eyes to the brain to the hands where things got mixed up. i did figure it out eventually. for me, i always find pictures confusing……your directions are just fine. the pattern was really all in all pretty easy to follow. i eliminated the brim and it still looked great!
Hi Janice 🙂 At the end of R7 you TURN your work and you will be working into the middle dc beneath the space – this is how it makes it all come together. It sounds like maybe you didn’t turn and are instead working into the stitches of the previous round instead of the stitch beneath the space of the previous round? If you look at the images included after R7 and R8 it should hopefully give you a visual of what I mean 🙂 Hope this helps, Rhondda
h
in the instructions for the Soft Cotton Sunhat i am confused about row 7 and 8. i did about 10 rows and it sure didnt look like your hat. i cant see where, but does it say somewhere to do a shell in the space inbetween the previous row shells? that would make the pattern tighter and more closed in where as i did a shell in the middle of each previous shell…..except for the starting shell, i cant find anything to say that. hope i am making sense. thanks
jan