Simple Crochet Purse
Simple Crochet Purse
Yarn: Loops & Threads Impeccable in 2 colours (shown in: Burgundy and Claret) (Medium | Worsted Weight Yarn)
Hook: 4.0 mm (G)
Other Supplies: Button or Bead, Stitch Marker, Yarn Needle and Scissors
Finished Dimensions: 10″ wide by 5.5″ tall
Strap Length: 33″
Flap Dimensions: 6.5″ wide by 9.25″ long
Notes: Parts of this purse (base, flap and straps) are worked flat (back and forth) and the main purse is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark your place for each round. Do not use a slip stitch to join unless specifically indicated. Gauge is not imperative.
Abbreviations: R – round, ch – chain, chs – chains, st – stitch, sts – stitches, beg – begin, sc – single crochet, bphdc – back post half double crochet, hdc – half double crochet, sl st – slip stitch, dc – double crochet, ch1sp – chain 1 space, ch2sp – chain 2 space, (#) – this is the total number of stitches for the row or round and will be indicated at the end of the Row or Round instructions
Standing Stitches: Single Crochet
Standing Stitches: Double Crochet
Basic Purse Pattern
Row 1: ch 31, beg in the 2nd ch and work 1 sc in each st across (30)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st across (30)
Row 3-Row 7: repeat Row 2
Note: You will now work around the outer edge of the rectangle. From this point on you will be working in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch to join unless specified.
R1: Work 78 sc around the outer edge of the rectangle.
This is how I worked my 78 stitches:
Side 1: work 8 sc
Side 2: (this is the starting chain side): work 31 sc
Side 3: work 8 sc
Side 4: work 31 sc
R2: Work 1 bphdc in each st around (78)
R3: Work 1 hdc in each st around (78)
R4-R19: repeat R3 (78)
R20: Work 1 sc in each of the next 15 sts, work 1 sl st in each remaining st around (78)
Note: R21 is a partial round
R21: Work 1 sl st in each of the next 15 sts, finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends (15)
Purse Flap Pattern
Note: What I LOVE about this purse is you can create any rectangle flap you want in place of this one – simply crochet a rectangle using hdc stitches if you wish! The rectangle I used is 6″ by 9″ before the outer edge is crocheted around it. So make a rectangle in your favourite stitch – in place of this pattern below if you wish and have fun playing with all the different options!
The Purse Flap is worked in 2 colours. I chose to use the same colour as my basic purse (burgundy) for the MC (main colour) and the brighter claret for my CC (contrast colour).
Note: You may wish to mark the Right Side of your purse with a piece of yarn or stitch marker.
Row 1: (Right Side): Using your MC chain 28. Beg in the 4th ch from the hook and work 2 dc. (Note: The 3 skipped chs count as 1 dc.) Skip the next 2 chs. Work 1 sc in the next ch. *Skip the next 2 chs, work 5 dc in the next ch, skip the next 2 chs, work 1 sc in the next ch*. Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Skip the next 2 chs and work 3 dc in the last ch. Finish off.
Row 2: Turn. Join CC with a sc in the first dc. *Ch 1, skip the next 2 dc and the next sc. Work 1 dc in the space before the next dc. Ch 2 and work 1 dc in the space before the skipped sc. Ch 1, skip the next 2 dc, work 1 sc in the next dc*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times.
Row 3: Turn. Join MC with a sc in the first sc. Skip the ch1sp. Work 5 dc in the next ch2sp. *Ch 1, skip the next 2 ch1sps and work 5 dc in the next ch2sp*. Repeat from * to * 3 times. Skip the last ch1sp and work 1 sc in the last sc. Finish off.
Row 4: Turn. Join CC with a dc in the first sc. Work 1 more dc in the same st. Ch 1, skip the next 2 dc, sc in the next dc, ch 1. (Note: you will now be working around the previous row to reach the spaces created 2 rows prior). *Work 1 dc in the ch1sp after the sc (2 rows prior). Ch 2. Work 1 dc in the ch1sp before the sc (2 rows prior). Ch 1. Skip the next 2 dc, sc in the next dc; ch 1. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Skip the next 2 dc and work 2 dc in the last sc. Finish off.
Row 5: Turn. Join MC with a dc in the first dc. Work 2 more dc in the same st, ch 1. *Skip the next 2 ch1sps, work 5 dc in the next ch2sp, ch 1*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Skip the last 2 ch1sps and the next dc. Work 3 dc in the last dc. Finish off.
Row 6: Turn. Join CC with a sc in the first dc. (Note: you will now be working around the previous row to reach the spaces created 2 rows prior). *Ch 1, work 1 dc in the ch1sp after the sc (2 rows prior). Ch 2. Work 1 dc in the ch1sp before the sc (2 rows prior). Ch 1. Skip the next 2 dc. Work 1 sc in the next dc.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Finish off.
Repeat Row 3-Row 6: 5 more times
You will now be working around the rectangle you created.
R1: sc evenly around (work an even number of stitches)
R2: (work 1 sc in the front loop of the first st, work 1 sc in the back loop of the next st) repeat around. Finish off and weave in ends.
Weave in all your loose ends.
Purse Strap Pattern:
The purse strap is 30″ long plus 1.5″ extra on each side; for a total of 33″. The extra 1.5″ is to attach to the sides of the purse.
Row 1: Ch 5, beg in the 2nd ch from the hook and work 1 sc in each st across (4)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn; work 1 sc in each st across (4)
Repeat Row 2 until your purse strap measures 33″ in length *unstretched*
Locate the mid-point on each side edge of the purse and attach the straps 1.5″ below the edge. Sew the straps securely.
When I attached the purse flap, I folded it in half and then lined the fold line up with the top of the purse. There were approximately 7 stitches on either side of the flap width-wise. I then slid the flap back slightly to have a little bit more of the flap on the back of the purse than on the front of the purse and I pinned it in place. I stitched the purse flap to the back of the purse along the bottom only.
This closure can be sewn in different positions to allow it to work with most buttons or clasps.
Row 1: ch 11, beg in the 2nd ch from the hook and work 1 hdc in each st across (10)
Row 2: ch 1 and turn; work 1 hdc in each st across (including the first one), ch 1 and turn (10)
Fold the two rows together lengthwise (the fold will be between Row 1 and Row 2) and sl st the 2 rows together into a tube shape. Leave a long tail for sewing.
This will form the loop which you will use to button your purse closed. You can shape it to fit any button you choose to use – although for this type of project I recommend the
button have a post (not a flat button unless you are adding a thread post yourself!).
Button or Bead Closure:
I planned to use a button for my purse but it has been misplaced (in truth, my imp of a child has wandered away with it and it cannot be found!). I have come up with a temporary fix until I can purchase a new button – here is how my purse is currently closed.
Thread a bead on your yarn and ch 4. Slide the bead down to the last ch st worked and ch 1 to secure the bead. Next work 1 sc in each ch back to the beginning. Leave a long tail to sew your bead closure to the purse.
Hi Amber, It will really depend on how heavy the purse is. THere will be some stretch – approximately 1-2 inches normally with crocheted fabric. If you want a shorter strap you can eliminate some of the strap rows to make it shorter, or you can purchase a purse strap and add it to the purse in place of the crocheted option. I’ve seen some pretty purses lately (and bags) where they combine the crochet and the leather straps in the same finished project. Hope this helps! Rhondda
I am struggling with my purse straps stretching. Is the 33″ accomodating for stretching? How much does the strap stretch once it is in use?
I have a bag addiction. So I think the hardest part for me will be deciding if I want to keep this for myself or sell it. Thank you so much for sharing the pattern!
This is wonderful! I haven’t found a bag/purse crochet pattern yet that looks like the “real deal” purse. This is perfect! Thank you for the free pattern!
I absolutely love crocheted purses! Thank you for all the awesome and hard work you do.
Love this. Very cute.