Penguin Family Crochet Pattern – Fun and Easy
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Here’s how it works.
Bring charm to your crochet projects with this adorable Penguin Family pattern! Inspired by a child’s playful drawing, these penguins are made from simple rectangles that are stitched together for an easy yet delightful result. The adult penguin measures 5 inches wide by 10 inches tall, while the baby measures 4 inches wide by 7.5 inches tall and is available here. Perfect for kids to play with or to use as decor, this pattern is sure to bring a smile to everyone’s face.
Fun Crochet Penguins – Free Pattern
A few months ago, Darla (my daughter) brought home an adorable penguin she made in school with construction paper.
I have been planning on making her a stuffed animal – based on her project – for the past few months. When Margaret asked me which project I would like to contribute to the Christmas in July Blog Hop – I asked if I could create Darla’s Penguin – all ready for Christmas…and was very happy when she said this would be ok 🙂
I requested the following yarn to make my penguins and their winter scarves, bow and hat:
- Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in Black, Red, White, Flame and Mistletoe
- Red Heart Boutique Fur in Polar
Darla was thrilled and has been watching me carefully as I made ‘her’ penguin to be sure it was ‘correct’. I did ask her for a bit of design freedom when it came to his feet and she agreed they could be a bit bigger but they still had to be exactly the way she wanted them 😉
Do you want an entire family of penguins? Use the adult penguin pattern to make your parents and the baby penguin pattern to make your babies. Add the accessories of your choice – Santa Hats, Baby Penguin Hat, Scarves, Hair-bands and Bows…or add a flower embellishment instead. Have fun!
Please see below for the full pattern instructions and Happy Christmas in July!
Supplies
- Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Yarn (7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m) 100% Acrylic; Worsted Weight [4]
- Colors: Cherry Red, White, Black, Flame and Mistletoe (5 oz/141 g; 236 yds/215 m) 100% Acrylic; Worsted Weight [4]; Red Heart Boutique Fur (3.5 oz/100 g; 11 yds/10 m) 100% Polyester; Jumbo [7]. Color: Polar
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G) Furls Odyssey (pictured)
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)
- Safety Eyes: Adult 12 mm Blue, Baby 9 mm Blue
- Poly-Fil, Poly Pellets
Difficulty Level
- EASY-INTERMEDIATE
Finished Size
- Adult: 5 inches wide by 10 inches tall
- Baby: 4 inches wide by 7.5 inches tall
Gauge
- Is not imperative for this project – but be sure you work tightly enough so you will not see the stuffing between the stitches. My gauge was approximately: 3 sc / inch, 4 rows / inch
Abbreviations
- beg – beginning
- bl – back loop
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- FPsc- Front Post Single Crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- R – row/round
- RS – right side
- rem – remaining
- rep – repeat
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- sl st – slip stitch
- st/sts – stitch/stitches
- * – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
- () – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
- [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Helpful Tutorials
Choose How You Want to Seam Your Penguin:
Notes
- PrintFriendly Button is the print button at the top of the post.
- This Adult Penguin is worked flat and then seamed
- A Note about the Hat and Headband Sizing – these patterns were designed based on the finished stuffed size of my adult and baby penguin. If you stuff your penguin more (or less) than I did the hat and headbands may not fit the same. I recommend taking the band of the hat and trying it for size on your penguin before seaming it and continuing to the main hat pattern. Be sure it fits and then if it is too loose, remove a couple rows and try again.
- Add the Crochet Penguin pattern to your Ravelry library here.
Adult Penguin Crochet Pattern
The adult penguin is created using rectangles in 3 different sizes. You will need 2 of each size – a total of 6 rectangles before you can assemble your penguin.
Large Rectangles: Make 2:
R1: Ch 16, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [15]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [15]
R3 – R34: Rep R2
(Note: remember to work the last ch 1 in the repeat).
Rotate your work to crochet along the side edge of the rectangle you just created.
- Work 1 sl st in each row-end (total of 34 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the bottom edge. Work 1 sl st in each st across (total of 15 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the side edge. Work 1 sl st in each row end (total of 34 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the top edge. Work 1 sl st in each row end (total of 15 sl st).
Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [98 sl st, 4 ch 1]
Medium Rectangles: Make 2:
R1: Ch 8, beg 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [7]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [7]
R3 – R34: Rep R2
(Note: remember to work the last ch 1 in the repeat).
Rotate your work to crochet along the side edge of the rectangle you just created.
- Work 1 sl st in each row-end (total of 34 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the bottom edge. Work 1 sl st in each st across (total of 7 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the side edge. Work 1 sl st in each row end (total of 34 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the top edge. Work 1 sl st in each row end (total of 7 sl st).
Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [82 sl st, 4 ch 1]
Small Rectangles: Make 2:
R1: Ch 8, beg 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [7]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [7]
R3 – R16: Rep R2
(Note: remember to work the last ch 1 in the repeat).
Rotate your work to crochet along the side edge of the rectangle you just created.
- Work 1 sl st in each row-end (total of 16 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the bottom edge. Work 1 sl st in each st across (total of 7 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the side edge. Work 1 sl st in each row end (total of 16 sl st).
- Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet along the top edge. Work 1 sl st in each row end (total of 7 sl st).
Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [46 sl st, 4 ch 1]
Now you will have 6 rectangles.
Next we move to the assembly part of the Penguin.
I chose to use a slip stitch join technique with my pieces.
When I seamed the penguin closed I placed the 2 edges side-by-side and worked through the bl of the sl st on the top piece of fabric and the fl of the sl st on the bottom piece of fabric. I worked 1 sl st in each of the lined-up stitches for the entire body of the penguin.
Alternately you can use a different seaming technique. This is totally up to you. You can see some options here:
Seaming Techniques
Now seam your penguin together like this (see below) if you are using the slip stitch seaming technique:
Start at A > B > C > D. Finish off and weave in ends.
You are going to join the last large rectangle on 2 more sides (W to X and X to Y). See below for a different view of the pieces. Rejoin your yarn with a sl st at W > X > Y > Z. Remember to look at the above view too! It shows where Z is.
Remember to leave the final seam open. This will allow you to stuff the penguin AND add the embellishments and eyes.
Embellishments
Beak
R1: Ch 2, beg in 2nd ch and work 1 sc. Ch 1, turn. [1]
R2: Work 2 sc in the next st. Ch 1, turn. [2]
R3: Work 1 sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st, ch 1, turn. [3]
R4: Work 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc. Work 2 sc in the next st. [4]
Ch 1 and rotate your work to crochet around the outside of the triangle you have just created.
- Work 1 sl st in each row end, ch 1, rotate to work up the other side of the triangle.
- Work 1 sl st in each row end, ch 1, rotate to work across the top of the triangle.
- Work 1 sl st in each st across. Finish off, leaving a long tail for assembly.
Wings
Make 2:
R1: Leave a tail of yarn to use to sew the wing to the penguin. Ch 8, beg in 2nd ch from hook. Work 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [7]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, turn. [7]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the front loop of each st across, ch 1, turn [7]
R4: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [7]
R5-R7: Rep R4
R8: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn [5]
R9: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [5]
R10: Rep R9
R11: Sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn [3]
R12: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [3]
R13: Rep R12 [3]
R14: Sk the first st, sc2tog, ch 1 [1]
NOTE: Make sure you do not turn before you begin to work around the edge of the wing – you need the leftover loops to be facing upwards so you can work into them on this edging round.
- 1 sc in each row end around the wing until you reach the end of R3 (where the back loops are on the wing).
- Work 1 sl st in each available loop across the wing [7 sl sts]. You will skip the initial 2 rows of the wing – you do not need to edge them.
- Work the remaining way around the outside of the wing with 1 sc in each row end.
Finish off with an invisible join and weave in the one end of yarn only. You will use the initial yarn end for assembly so do not weave that one in!
Tummy Patch
R1: Ch 11, beg in the 2nd st from hook and work 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn [10]
R2: 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn [10]
R3-R16: Rep 2
R17: 1 sl st in each across, ch 1, and rotate your work to crochet around the outside edge.
- Work 1 sl st in each row end, ch 1, rotate to continue up the bottom edge.
- Work 1 sl st in each st across, ch 1, rotate to continue up the side edge.
- Work 1 sl st in each row end. Sl st to the first st to join and finish off with an invisible join; leaving a long tail for assembly.
Feet
Make 2:
R1: Ch 6, beg 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch across, ch 1,turn [5]
R2: 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn [5]
R3: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, skip the last st, ch 1, turn [5]
R4: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [5]
R5: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sk the last st, ch 1, turn [5]
R6: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1 and continue below [5]
- Rotate your work to crochet along the edge. Work 1 sc in each row end; rotate to crochet along the next edge.
- Work 4 sc evenly across the bottom edge; rotate to crochet along the side edge.
- Work 5 sc evenly up the side edge toward the toes of the foot.
- Rotate to work along the toes, working 3 sc in the top of the first toe, sl st to the next row end.
- Work 3 sc in the top of the next toe, sl st to the next row end.
- Work 3 sc in the top of the last toe, sl st to the next row end. Finish off and weave in this yarn end. Leave the initial yarn end for sewing to the penguin.
White of the eye
Make 2.
R1: Work 8 sc in a MR. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in one yarn end. Leave one yarn end for sewing to the penguin.
Optional Poly Pellet Package (to add weight to the bottom of your Penguin).
Now make a small package to hold your Polyfil pellets secure. The package I created was slightly smaller than the bottom edge of the penguin so it could rest completely flat at the bottom of the penguin. I simply used a scrap piece of black fabric and folded it in half and stitched up two sides. Then I filled the package with Polyfil pellets and handstitched the final seam of the package. I placed this package at the very bottom of the penguin and then I stuffed regular polyfil stuffing on top to fill the penguin completely.
I probably could have just poured the pellets directly into the body of the penguin but I like to be ‘safe’ and thought they would stay put better in the package.
Assembly
For the assembly please position your pieces as you want them – or follow my example in the image below. I do recommend the last part you affix is the safety eyes…because I did those at the beginning and scratched my hands up while I was sewing the embellishments on!
Once the final embellishment is attached you will need to stuff the penguin. If you haven’t placed the weighted package of Poly Pellets inside, do this now. Then fill the penguin body firmly with polyfil or the stuffing of your choice. Finally using a sl st join, work the final seam closed:
One option you can use for your stuffing is a stuffing bomb. They work really well for containing the stuffing and because our penguins body is a darker yarn color and the polyfil is white – it will also contain any errant strands which might try to peak through the stitches. To learn how to make a stuffing bomb check out Dedri’s post here:
Santa Hat for Daddy or Mommy Penguin
Starting with the Brim
R1: Ch 6, beg in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [5]
R2: 1 sc in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [5]
R3 – R56 : Rep R2
Do not finish off. Rotate to work around the brim in the ends of each row.
Main Hat
R1: Work 1 sc in each row end around. Sl st to the first sc to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [56]
R2: Join new yarn (red) with a standing dc. Work 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the initial dc to join. [56]
R3: Ch 3, 1 dc in the next st. Dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [42]
R4: Ch 3, dc2tog. *1 dc in the next st, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [28]
R5: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [28]
R6: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 5 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [24]
R7: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [24]
R8: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [20]
R9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [20]
R10: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [16]
R11: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [16]
R12: Ch 3, 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog. *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [12]
R13: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [12]
R14: Ch 3, dc2tog. *1 dc in the next st, dc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [8]
R15: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. [8]
R16: Ch 3, dc2tog. Dc2tog around working 1 dc in the final st of the round. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join. Finish off, leaving a tail of yarn to weave through the top stitches of the hat to close. See this tutorial for help:
Simple Closing Method for Hats and Mittens – Tutorial
Weave in ends. [5]
Make your “Pom Pom” for your Santa Hat
Ch 5, sl st to form a ring. Finish off and weave in one end. Use the other end to attach to the end of the hat.
Add a Fluffy Edging to your Santa Hat
If you want the edging to be fluffy like the pom pom, cut a length of Red Heart Boutique Fur 30 inches long, thread one end of it on a yarn needle and weave it in and out between the rows of stitches in the brim of the hat closest to the red section of the hat.
Repeat this one more time but weave it in and out between the rows at the very edge of the brim. Finish off and weave in ends.
Headband and Bow for Adult Penguin
Adult Penguin Headband With (Or Without a Bow)
R1: Ch 6, beg in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in bl of each ch across, ch 1, turn [5]
R2: 1 sc in bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [5]
R3-R52: rep R2, finish off and using the yarn end seam up the band.
Use a small flower, or a simple bow to embellish the band.
Simple Bow:
Ch 5, work 3 tr in the 5th ch from the hook, ch 4 and sl st to the same ch (the 5th one you have been working in). Now you will be working on the other side of the ch 5 hole. Ch 4, work 3 tr in the same ch (the 5th one you have been working in). Ch 4 and sl st to the same ch. Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn which you will wrap around the center (ch 5 hole) to create the middle of the bow. Weave in any ends.
Do you want a larger bow? Simply change up the height of the stitches:
Double Treble Simple Bow:
Ch 6, work 3 dtr in the 6th ch from the hook, ch 5 and sl st to the same ch (the 6th one you have been working in). Now you will be working on the other side of the ch 6 hole. Ch 5, work 3 dtr in the same ch (the 6th one you have been working in). Ch 5 and sl st to the same ch.
Triple Treble Simple Bow:
Ch 7, work 3 trtr in the 7th ch from the hook, ch 6 and sl st to the same ch (the 7th one you have been working in). Now you will be working on the other side of the ch 7 hole. Ch 6, work 3 trtr in the same ch (the 7th one you have been working in). Ch 6 and sl st to the same ch.
Baby Penguin Pattern – Get it here!
The Baby Penguin Post also includes the following Accessories
#joycreators
11 Christmas-themed patterns will be shared during the Christmas in July Blog Hop!
- Wednesday, July 6: Joyful Star Teething Ring from Stitch11
- Friday, July 8: Jolly Elf Hat from Jessie at Home
- Monday, July 11: Victorian Pillow Cover from Beatrice Ryan Designs
- Wednesday, July 13: Icicle Ike from Snappy Tots
- Friday, July 15: Wild Orchid Cowl ELK Studio
- Monday, July 18: Glisten Holiday Throw from Marly Bird
- Wednesday, July 20: Sparkle Ruby Cowl from Myhobbyiscrochet
- Friday, July 22: Penguins in July from Oombawka Design
- Monday, July 25: Tiny Angel Wings from Simply Collectible
- Wednesday, July 27: The Trendy Elf from Cre8tion Crochet
- Friday, July 29: Peace, Joy and Love Throw from Pattern Paradise
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