Patience. A Crochet Angel Pattern.

Patience. A New Crochet Angel Pattern from Oombawka Design. Get this free pattern and watch the step-by-step video tutorial to make your own crocheted Christmas Angel.

Patience. A Crochet Angel Pattern.

Supplies

• Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver – (7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m), 100% acrylic. Medium [4] Weight.
• Color: White. My finished angels use between 70 and 80 yards.
• Hook: 4.0 mm (G) Furls Odyssey (pictured below) for the Angel project EXCEPT the halo
• Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (is recommended – safety pins work/paper clips too/hoop earrings)
• Poly-Fil
• HALO: Get the Bowdabra Wire from Michael’s Here.  Bowdabra Bow Wire – Color Gold and 2.25 mm (B) crochet hook, Dollar store Holly Sprigs – cut a small piece for her to hold – you can also check out miniature ornaments to find other fun things for the Angels to hold, like poinsettias, bells, candles, etc.

Gauge

Not imperative but if your stitches have big spaces between them that you can see through you need to go down a hook size (or two) until you are crocheting a more solid fabric. Only a few rounds of the skirt are meant to have a more open appearance. All the top rounds are meant to be solid.

Finished Size

Approximately 7 inches tall and 5 inches wide (skirt diameter).

Abbreviations

beg – beginning

bl – back loop

ch – chain
ch1sp – chain 1 space

ch2sp – chain 2 space

dc – double crochet

DMR – double magic ring

FPdc – Front Post double crochet

FPhdc – Front Post half double crochet

FPsc – Front Post single crochet

R – row/round

rem – remaining

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 together

sc7tog – single crochet 7 together

sk – skip

sl st – slip stitch

st/sts – stitch/stitches

* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.

() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.

[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Helpful Tutorials

Skip to these Spots in the Video:

Round 7: https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=305

Round 11: https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=548

Arms:  https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1335

Wings: https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1505

Halo: https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1913

DMR – Double Magic Ring

Invisible Join

Stitch Anatomy

Front Post Single Crochet

Front Post Double Crochet

Single Crochet Two Together – I recommend you only go under the front loop while doing the sc2tog for this project

Notes

• Find all my Angel Patterns here: Angel Crochet Patterns
• This project is worked in continuous rounds. You will need to use a stitch marker so you do not lose your place.
• Do not slip stitch to join at the end of rounds unless specified.
• When joining with a sl st the sl st will not be included as a stitch in the row-end stitch totals.
• Do not work into slip stitches unless specified.
• When you work the sc2tog decreases work under the front loop only (it makes the stitch less thick).
• Ch 3 at the beginning of a round counts as 1 dc.
• Options – easily stitch the hands together to make your angel ‘pray’ or give her something to hold in her hands.
• Add hair to her head if you’d like!
• Stitch a bell under her skirt, or add a ribbon to her back (above her wings) to make her an ornament for your tree.
• Add a handmade paper (or plastic) cone under her skirt to help her stay in shape on the top of your Christmas Tree.

Patience. A Crochet Angel Pattern Instructions

You are beginning at the top of the Angel’s head and working in continuous rounds to the base of the dress, all in one piece.

R1: Work 6 sc in a DMR. [6]

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. [12]

R3: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18]

R4: 1 sc in each st around. [18]

R5-R6: Rep R4

R7: *Sc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [12]

I recommend you firmly stuff the head at this point.

R8: Sc2tog around. [6]

R9: 1 FPsc in each st around. [6]

R10: 1 sc and 1 FPsc in each st around.  Sl st to the first sc to join. [12]

R11:  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPdc in the next FPsc, ch 2, sk the next sc and the next FPsc.  *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPdc in the next FPsc**. Rep from * to ** one more time. Ch 2, sk the next sc and the next FPsc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPdc in the next FPsc. Sl st in the top of the initial ch 3 to join.  [4 dc, 4 FPdc, 2 ch2sp]

R12: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st (the FPdc), 1 dc in the bl of each of the next 2 chs, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 1 dc in the bl of each of the next 2 chs, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts.  [12]

R13: 1 FPhdc in each st around. Sl st to the first FPhdc to join. [12]

R14: (Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st. Sk 1 FPhdc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next FPhdc**. Rep from * to ** around to the last FPhdc. Sk the last FPhdc. Sl st to the first dc to join. [24 dc, 6 ch1sp]

R15: Sl st into the first ch1sp. (Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch1sp. *Sk 4 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch1sp**. Rep from * to ** around to the last 2 dc. Sk the last 2 dc. Sl st to the first dc to join. [24 dc, 6 ch2sp]

R16: Sl st into the first ch2sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the ch2sp. *Sk 4 dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch2sp**. Rep from * to ** around to the last 2 dc. Sk the last 2 dc. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36 dc, 6 ch2sp]

R17: Sl st in the next dc, sl st into the first ch2sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the ch2sp. *Sk 6 dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch2sp**. Rep from * to ** around to the last 3 dc. Sk the last 3 dc. Sl st to the first dc to join. [36 dc, 6 ch2sp]

R18: Sl st in the next dc, sl st into the first ch2sp. (Ch 3, 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the ch2sp. *Sk 6 dc, (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch2sp**. Rep from * to ** around to the last 3 dc. Sk the last 3 dc. [48 dc, 6 ch2sp]

R19: *FPsc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 sc in the ch2sp, FPsc in each of the next 4 dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [48 FPsc, 6 sc]

Arms

Make 1.

The arm is created in one piece; worked flat and then seamed on the long edges with a slip stitch seam. Once the arm is complete you thread it through the openings on either side of the angel’s body, being sure to keep an equal amount of “arm” on each side. You can whipstitch these in place if you wish – I did not. I simply used 2 small stitches to attach the hands together in a “prayer” pose.

R1: Ch 21, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn [20]

R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [20]

R3: Rep R2, ch 1, turn [20]

Fold the rectangle in half (along row 2) and seam the long edges using a slip stitch seam. Finish off and weave in any remaining ends.

Wings

Make 2

R1: Ch 10, beg in the 2nd ch from the hook and work 1 sl st in the bl of each ch across, ch 1, turn [9]

R2: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 8 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [8]

R3: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [8]

R4: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 7 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [7]

R5: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [7]

R6: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 6 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [6]

R7: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [6]

R8: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 5 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [5]

R9: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [5]

R10: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 4 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [4]

R11: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [4]

R12: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 3 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [3]

R13: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn to work along the row ends. [3]

You will be making a sc7tog. Insert hook in every other row end (there is a small space you will see) and pull up 1 loop in each. You will have 8 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Ch 1 and finish off leaving a long yarn tail to sew the wings in place.

To attach the wings use a whipstitch and secure them like this:

Halo

The halo is the only part of this project to use a different hook and thread. Please use the 2.25 mm (B) hook and the Gold Bowdabra Bow Wire. This is a thin piece of wire wrapped in gold metallic thread. I found mine at Michael’s in the ribbon section. It can stand on it’s own which is why I like it – and it is much thinner than pipecleaner (which was what I had been considering).

I crocheted the halo like this:

Ch 20, finish off leaving a tail of the bow wire. Now take the tail and thread it through the 7th chain from the opposite end. This will create the halo loop. Now twist (like a twist-tie) the two remaining ends together to make it straight and stiff. Take that one end (since you twisted them together you have one wire now) and thread it through the back of the angel’s head and down to the base of the neck before cutting off any of the excess wire. If you want to dab a bit of fabric glue in there to keep it in place you can.

The image below is for my Crochet Angels Pattern but the Halo design is the same:

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