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For “The Original Not Another Owl Hat” Toddler sized pattern pictured below, please visit this post:

The Original Not Another Owl Hat

 

For the updated and free version of the Not Another Owl Hat (Toddler Size) using Red Heart Soft Yarn, please see below!

If you are searching for the pattern in other sizes they are available as premium patterns here:

Not Another Owl Hat (Sizes Child to Adult)

Not Another Owl Hat Sizes (Baby to 5 years)

 

Not ANOTHER Owl Hat! Toddler Size

Gauge: 11 sts = 4”, 9 rows = 4”

Materials:

Yarn: Red Heart Soft Yarn: 5oz (141g), 256yd (234m) – (WPI 13) the adult size uses 1-skein each of colour A&B (this is sufficient for the main hat, earflaps, horns/ties and tassels), black, white and tangerine for the eyes/beak, iris colour and eyelids can be the same as colour A&B or your own choice

Hook: 6.50mm (K/101/2) ,5.50mm (I/9) & 5.00mm (H/8) hooks (or size needed to obtain recommended guage), yarn needle, stitch markers, measuring tape and scissors

Abbreviations:
R – rounds/rows, AL – adjustable loop (magic loop), hdc – half double crochet, sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, ss – slip stitch, st/sts – stitch/stitches, ch – chain, FO – finish off, x – times, 1st – first, ch1sp – chain one space, sc2tog – single crochet two together, hdc2tog – half double crochet two together, ch2sp – chain two space.

Unless otherwise indicated this pattern is worked in continuous rounds

 

3-5 year Hat (approximate fit for 20” head-size)

Using 2-strands of Colour A and 6.50mm hook

R1: 8hdc in an AL [8]
R2: 2hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (1hdc in the 1st st, 2hdc in the next st) 8x [24]
R4: (2hdc in the 1st st, 1hdc in each of the next 2sts) 8x [32]
R5: (2hdc in the 1st st, 1hdc in each of the next 3sts)8x [40]
R6: (2hdc in the 1st st, 1hdc in each of the next 4sts)8x, [48]
R7: (2hdc in the 1st st, 1hdc in each of the next 23sts)2x [50]
R8: 1hdc in each st around [50]
R9: 1hdc in each of the 1st 47 sts, 1sc in each of the next 2sts, 1ss in the last st [50]

FO and weave in ends (or work over ends)

Change to 2-strands of Colour B and attach the yarn in the
48th st of R9, 1sc in each of the next 2sts and begin R10

R10: 1hdc in each of the 1st 47 sts, 1hdc in the 48th st (the
sc) of R9 *not in the joining st*, 1hdc in each of the next
2sts (the 2sc in the contrast colour) [50]

R11-16: 1hdc in each st around [50]

If you want to add earflaps to your hat, please proceed to
the Earflap instructions (below).

For a beanie style hat please continue:

R17: 1sc in each st around [45]

For a contrast colour on the edge of the hat FO Colour B at
the end of R17 and switch to 2-strands of Colour A before
continuing R18

R18: 1ss in each st around, FO and weave in ends [45]

3-5 Year Earflap Instructions:

R1-3: 1 hdc in each of the next 8sts, ch1, turn [8]
R4: hdc2tog, (1 hdc in the next st) 4x, hdc2tog, ch1, turn [6]
R5: hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next 2sts, hdc2tog, ch1, turn [4]
R6: hdc2tog, ch2, hdc2tog, FO and weave in ends [2hdc and one ch2sp)
Keeping the top of the hat facing you, count 14sts (12-24 month) or 17sts (3-5 year) to the left of the base of the earflap where it joins the hat.

Attach your 2-strands of yarn and repeat R1-R6 above *do not FO*; proceed to the Finishing Section.

Finishing: (always keep the top / crown) of the hat facing you)

Continuing in the same colour yarn as the earflaps, 1 sc in each st around and along the sides of the earflaps. In each ch2sp at the ends of the earflaps, hdc 3 times. If you want a contrasting edge for the hat please complete the sc finishing round first and then FO the yarn. Attach the new colour at the base of the earflap (this will help conceal the join when you add the braids) and ss around the entire hat and both earflaps. FO and weave in ends.

Horn Instructions (make 2)

3-5 year Horn Instructions

Using 2-strands and 6.50 mm hook:

R1: ch15, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc across (back loops only), ch1, turn [14]
Fold in half; you will be working through both halves.
R2: (hdc2tog, ch1)3x, 1hdc in the end post, FO but leave a long tail for sewing [4hdc, 4ch1sp] *use the ch1 from the end of R1 as your 1st ch1sp for the tassels*

Beak – 3-5 year

Using 2-strands and 5.50 mm hook:

R1: AL, ch2, 10hdc in AL, ss to the 1st hdc of R1, ch2 [10]

R2: [(2hdc, ch1, 2hdc) in the 1st st, 1sc in each of the next 4sts] 2x [16 and 2 ch1sp]

R3: 1sc in each st around *3sc in each ch1sp* [22]

R4: 1ss in each st around, FO but leave a long tail for sewing [22]

 

Eyes 3-5 year

Whites (make 2)

Using 1-strand and a 5.00 mm hook

R1: AL, ch1, 6hdc into the AL, ss to the 1st hdc of the round, ch1 [6]
R2: 2hdc in each st around, ss to the 1st hdc of the round [12]
R3: ch1, (1hdc in the 1st st, 2hdc in the next st) 6x, ss to the 1st hdc of the round [18]
R4: (1sc in the 1st st, 2sc in the next st) 9x [27]
R5: 1ss in each st around [27], FO, but leave a long tail for sewing

Iris (make 2)

Using 1-strand and a 5.00 mm hook

R1: AL, ch1, 6sc into the loop [6]
R2: 2hdc in each st around [12]
R3: (1sc in the 1st st, 2sc in the next st) 6x [18]
R4: 1ss in each st around [18], FO, but leave a long tail for sewing

Pupil (make 2)

Using 1-strand and a 5.00 mm hook

R1: create an AL, 6hdc into the loop [6]
R2: 2sc in each st around [12]
R3: 1ss in each st around [12], FO, but leave a long tail for sewing

Eyelids – 3-5 year

(make 2)

Using 1-strand and a 5.00 mm hook

R1: ch14, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc across, ch1, turn [13]
R2: sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 9sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn [11]
R3: sc across, ch1, turn [11]
R4: sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 7sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn [9]
R5: sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 5sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn [7]
R6: sc2tog, 1sc in each of the next 3sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn [5]
R7: sc2tog, 1sc in the next st, sc2tog, [3], continue to sc around the exterior of the eyelid, FOb ut leave a long tail for sewing

Ties & Horn Tassels

Ties:

Using Red Heart Soft yarn made up of 2 or 3-colours; each strand is 60-cm (approximately 24-inches) long

*make 2 bunches*

For size 3-5 year, I use 36-strands for each side.

To measure my strands I have a piece of precut cardboard (30cm/ approximately 12 inches, wide) and I wrap the yarn around this cardboard, cutting only the bottom edge (each full wrap totals 60 cm / approximately 24 inches).

I take my pile of 36-strands and loop the middle of the pile around my finger (or a crochet hook) and hold the loose ends with my other hand.  I feed the centre (the portion looped on my finger) through the earflap end through the ch2 space at the end of the earflap) from the outside of the hat, toward the inside.

I pull the loop far enough through that I can feed the loose ends through the centre of the loop. I tighten these strands slowly.  Then I divide the strands into 3-piles of 24 and braid the yarn. Once I am near the end, I tie the ends of the yarn in a lose knot around the  braid and slide the knot toward the bottom of the braid. Once it is where I want it to be I tighten it by pulling firmly. If you have any stragglers you can pull each strand until you find the ‘right’ one to
make it align with the rest, or undo the knot and try again.

**An alternate method for tying: I tie the end of the braid with an extra strand of yarn (instead of knotting the whole strand) and then I use a second strand to wrap snuggly around the tied strand (10x) and secure it into the strand. It gives a less bulky look to the tie.

Tassels:

For 3-5 year size I use 8-strands in each ch1sp.

The “tassels” that are threaded through the 4 ch1sp(s) at the end of the horns are made-up of 8-strands of yarn (each tassel) and each strand is 6-inches long. For each horn you will need 32-strands. They are threaded through in the same manner as the ties are threaded through the chain-2 spaces at the end of the earflaps.

Please see the photo tutorial for further assistance.

Assembly:

When stitching the pieces together I weave the yarn around the posts of the stitches (it tends to hide the assembly stitches within the work).

Try not to stitch through the actual yarn (splitting the strands), but within the spaces of your work.
When assembling the eyes, I stitch the iris to the white section first (lining them up at the bottom edge of the eye) – then the pupil to the iris before stitching the assembled eye to the hat.

I keep the ’ending point’ of the eye at the top (12 o’clock position); when you add the eyelid this hides any unevenness from the finishing point of the eye rounds.
I add the eyelids last and they are stitched directly to the hat (not to the eyes).

Please see the Assembly photo for further assistance on working between the stitches/ around the posts.

To attach the beak, fold the beak in half (so the ch1sps face downward) – you will only be attaching the bottom half of the beak to the hat – stitch the beak to the hat using the same colour yarn as the beak.

To determine placement for the facial features I find the midpoint (middle stitch) along the bottom edge of the hat and line-up the beak first. I usually place the beak close to the bottom edge of the hat. From there, I line up the eyes to be ‘equal’ distance from the beak and each other. The eyelids are sewn on last. Finally I attach the horns – lining them up with the facial features.

Please use the photos for placement ideas for the facial features.

 

 

Happy crocheting!

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