My Go To Bag – A Free Crochet Pattern

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My Go To Bag is my practical, everyday crocheted bag. I wanted a bag I could use for everything – from beach bag to book bag – a single crocheted base gives this bag extra support – the first few rounds are crocheted in double crochet and then the main bag is worked up in an easy to work granny stitch stripe pattern. The Strap is wider than a regular strap to compensate for any stretch factor that will occur when you load lots of items into your new favorite bag. The yarn I chose to crochet this in is durable and from my stash. This bag is easy to crochet, strong and practical. The perfect “Go To” bag for your bag collection.

I chose to make my straps slightly wider than most bags because when you fill the bag and the straps stretch, they will remain comfortable on your shoulders. If you would like to have a narrower strap, it is very easy to change the width of the strap. Simply add one extra decrease repeat of: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. [4] in place of R11 of the straps and for R80 work: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn. [6]. Have fun making this simple, attractive and practical Go To Bag!

My Go To Bag A Free Pattern By Oombawka Design Crochet

Supplies

  • Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver, 100 % Acrylic, [No-Dye-Lot Solids: 7 oz (198g), Stripes: 5 oz (141 g) No-Dye-Lot Solids: Approx.364 yds (333 m), Stripes: 236 yards (215 m)], [4] Medium Weight Yarn, Color: Neon Stripes (1 ball), Black (1 ball)
  • Hook: 5 mm (H) Furls Gold Odyssey
  • Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Markers (optional)

Difficulty Level

Beginner-Easy

Finished Size

Straps 26 inches long and 2 inches wide

Bag 17 inches long by 15 inches wide when measured on a flat surface

Handle Drop 14 inches

Gauge

Approximately

4 dc per inch

2 rounds dc per inch

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
R – row
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Helpful Tutorials

Stitch Anatomy

Helpful Video Tutorials

Quick Stitch Guide 

Slip Knot and Starting Chain

Notes

  • This project is worked flat for the base of the bag and in rounds for the body of the bag. The straps are worked flat, beginning at the top of the bag and then slip stitched to the opposite side in position.
  • do not count the sl st as a stitch
  • count the ch 3 at the beginning of each round as 1 dc
  • the first st of each round is worked in the same st as you sl st to join
  • Strap Assembly diagrams/directions for starting will be ‘reversed’ for Left Handed Crocheters

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Pattern Instructions

My Go To Bag Base

With Black Yarn

R1: Ch 41, sk 1 ch, 1 sc in each ch across, ch 1, turn. [40]

R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [40]

R3-R12: Rep R2

We are now working around the rectangle base you just crocheted; before continuing in rounds for the rest of the bag.

My Go To Bag Body

R1:  Work 104 sc sts evenly around the base of the bag. Please see the following diagram for where I worked my stitches. [104]

Stitches around base

R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [104]

R3-R5: Rep R2

R6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st. *1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the initial ch 3 to join. [78 dc, 26 ch1sp]

With Neon Stripes

If you are changing yarns this is where I changed my yarn. Finish off and weave in your ends from the black yarn. Join your new yarn with a sl st to the top of the ch3 to begin the next round.

R7: 1 sl st in each of the next 2 dc, 1 sl st into the ch1sp. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the initial ch1sp. Sk all rem dc sts. *3 dc in the next ch1sp, ch 1**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [26 sets of 3 dc, 26 ch1sp]

R8-R24: Rep R7.

With Black

If you are changing yarns this is where I changed my yarn. Finish off and weave in your ends from the Neon Stripes yarn. Join your new yarn with a sl st to the top of the ch3 to begin the next round.

R25: Rep R7

R26: 1 dc in each dc and each ch1sp around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [104]

R27: 1 dc in each st around. Do not join. [104]

In the next round please mark the 5th and the 58th stitches with a stitch marker. Do not remove these 2 stitch markers until you are finished the entire bag.

R28: 1 sc in each st around. [104]

My Go To Bag Straps

placement bag - My Go To Bag

Strap #1

With Black

R1: Ch 1, TURN, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts. Sk all rem sts. Ch 1, turn. [10]

R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [10]

There should be 4 sts left unworked between the last st and the closest stitch marker.

R3-R4: Rep R2

R5: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. [8]

R6: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [8]

R7: Rep R6

R8: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. [6]

R9: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [6]

R10-R82: Rep R9 [6]

R83: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn. [8]

R84: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [8]

R85: Rep R84

R86: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn. [10]

R87: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [10]

R88-90: Rep R87, finish off leaving a tail of yarn to assemble the bag.

 

Strap 1 Assembly:

You will whip stitch this strap to the other edge of the same side of the bag (see diagram below).

Side 1 Bag My Go To Bag

Count over 5 sts from the stitch marker marking the 58th stitch. Beginning at this fifth stitch, whip stitch the strap to the bag, working across 10 stitches in total. This will mirror the strap on the opposite end of the side.

Finish off and weave in ends.

 

Strap #2

With Black

Flip the bag over to make the strap for the other side.

Count over 5 sts from the marker marking the 5th stitch (this would be the 10th stitch). 

 

R1: Join your yarn with 1 sc in this stitch. Work 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts. Sk all rem sts. Ch 1, turn. [10]

R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [10]

There should be 4 sts left unworked between the last st and the closest stitch marker.

R3-R4: Rep R2

R5: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. [8]

R6: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [8]

R7: Rep R6

R8: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. [6]

R9: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [6]

R10-R82: Rep R9 [6]

R83: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn. [8]

R84: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [8]

R85: Rep R84

R86: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn. [10]

R87: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [10]

R88-90: Rep R87, finish off leaving a tail of yarn to assemble the bag.

 

Strap 2 Assembly:

You will whip stitch this strap to the other edge of the same side of the bag (see diagram below).

Side 2 Bag - My Go To Bag

Count over 5 sts from the stitch marker marking the 58th stitch. Beginning at this fifth stitch, whip stitch the strap to the bag, working across 10 stitches in total. This will mirror the strap on the opposite end of the side.

Finish off and weave in ends.

Now you can remove those 2 stitch markers.

 

Finishing

Join your yarn with 1 sc and work 1 sc in each st and row end around the top of the bag and handles. You will need to join yarn twice to complete this sc round. Finish off and weave in ends.

Join your yarn with 1 sl st and work 1 sl st in each st around the top of the bag and the handles. You will need to join yarn twice to complete this final sl st round. Finish off and weave in ends.

My Go TO Bag Square ODC

#joycreators #redheartyarns

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19 Comments

  1. Hi Sandy, I do also have difficulties using black yarns – especially if it is in the evening. I actually bought a light for myself this year that I could move behind where I sit on the couch and I only turn it on when I am working on a project at night. It helps but I find the best time for dark yarn is during the day – then I sit by the window 😉 I also try to pair dark yarns with a lighter colored hook if I can. I’ve been picking up some white and cream colored ones lately for that purpose. Anyway 🙂 for the row counting – there are a few different ways – when it is dark yarn and in the round you can pop a piece of white printer paper into the bag/project to help you see the stitches and the rows to make them easier to count. Then when I count my rows I usually pick out a stitch-set – so say 3 dc worked in one spot – and for granny stitch I count on the diagonal following those 3 stitches from the bottom to the top. It is much easier than trying to count straight up when every other row will be a chain space that we have to count. At least for me 🙂 If you prefer counting straight up try counting by 2 rows. So one chain space row and one 3 dc row would be 2 rows then just count the dc rows as 2 more all the way up to the top.
    I hope this helps a bit! All the best, Rhondda

  2. I’m a beginner, love this bag, hoping I can master the pattern. I’m discovering black is a difficult color for me to easily see my stitches. I normally watch the tutorials before starting a project. Is there an easy way to count the rows? Having difficulty distinguishing one row from another.
    Thanks so much for the beautiful pattern! Sandy

  3. Hi Meri, After you finish crocheting all the rows for strap one, you need to finish off and then take a look at the assembly diagram I included in the post 🙂 It shows you where to place the first strap and where to attach it. Then once that is done you begin Strap 2. Hope this helps! Rhondda

  4. I am trying to figure out the strap situation. I got the single crochet’s through the last row. But then when it says strap one, am I supposed to be starting from the last row of single crochet‘s, or am I supposed to cut the string and move over? I’m just not real clear on that as I’m not great at reading patterns yet. So I hope you can help!

  5. Hi Esmeralda, I will add it my list of tutorials to film! It won’t be done immediately though but I will try to make it up soon. All the best, Rhondda

  6. I would really appreciate it if I could see a video of the whole making of the purse I’m a beginner and im lost at row and ul plz help me…😏

  7. Love easy market bags and this is so versatile. Thank you for the free pattern.

  8. Hi Brenda, The bag itself (the body of the bag) is crocheted in rounds, not in rows, so we will not be turning at the end of the rounds. Instead we will slip stitch to join at the end of the round, before beginning the next round. Hope this helps! Best, Rhondda

  9. When going from base of bag to body, do you ch1 each time you turn your work

  10. Hi Sonia, Yes, for R2 because the ch 3 actually counts as 1 dc you do not need to work a second dc in the same stitch. The sc it was worked into already has 1 dc in it it now (the ch 3). You’ve already worked the dc (ie the ch 3) into the first sc. So you would need to work 1 dc in each of the remaining 103 sts around. Then sl st to the top of the ch 3 (we are treating as the first dc) and begin again for the next round. Hope this helps 🙂 Rhondda
    R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [104]

  11. Thanks for the info! I’m not having an issue per se with the dc yet, I haven’t made it that far. LOL. I’m still at the sc portion. Once I’m done that, when I do the ch3, and then dc around, I end up with 105. I’m assuming after the ch 3, I need to skip the first sc that’s there, where the ch3 counts as the first dc.
    Thanks!

  12. Hi Sonia, The ch3 is counting as our first dc for the round. You sl st to the top of the ch3 (so the third chain) and then in the next round you chain 3 to begin (this counts as 1 dc). I think maybe you are working a ch3 and 1 dc in the top of the ch3 from the previous round? where you sl st to ? to increase by 1 extra dc? So you need to just do the sl st, ch 3 in the top of the ch3. Hope this helps 🙂 Rhondda

  13. Quick question! When working the body of the bag, I have the 104 sts all around. are you supposed to sl st into the beginning of the 1st one? I’m having trouble with the ch 3, and then going around, I’m ending up with 105. Thanks!

  14. Hi Barbara R28 is a round of single crochet stitches. There is no need to work both a slip stitch and single crochet in the first stitch of the round. It just adds an extra stitch where one isn’t needed (since they are both so similar in height and can hold the space closed equally well). So just begin R28 🙂 and mark your place in the round by putting in a stitch marker in your first stitch so you don’t get lost on the way back around; and you know where to stop to begin the next round. Hope this helps 🙂 Rhondda

  15. Hi, I have just finished row 27 and it said do not join. Not sure how to start row 28. Please help. Barbara

  16. Hi V 🙂 I was using stash yarn – I’m sure you can make a lovely bag in a solid yarn color instead if you have some in your stash 🙂 Thank you for your honest feedback, Rhondda

  17. Going to work on this!! I’ve been at a loss of what to use the neon stripes with because every project I’ve started with it ends up not looking “right”. But since I’ve seen this bag done with it I know it’ll work!! Thanks for sharing your pattern 🙂