This quick to crochet project can be finished in just a couple hours, making her a great last minute gift or decoration for your tree or tabletop. My Mistletoe Christmas Crochet Angel Ornament Pattern is the seventh free crochet angel pattern available. I enjoy designing these, so as long as you still enjoy crocheting them too, I will try to come up with a few more Angels before the end of the week. Leave me a comment on the post to let me know if you’d like a couple new ones to make this year 🙂
Mistletoe is crocheted with Red Heart Super Saver (medium weight) yarn; beginning at the top her head and worked in continuous rounds to the base of her skirt. You will add the wings to the back of her dress using simple whip-stitches at the end, crochet the ‘arm’ and simply insert it through the small holes in her dress you created by following the crocheting instructions and slip the crocheted halo between the stitches at the back of her head.
This Angel stands on her own and she does not need to be ‘stiffened’. Her halo is designed with a thin bow wire I purchased at Michael’s (our local craft store) so it holds its shape and stays in place easily.
There are a few other little angel crochet patterns available from last year too and I have linked them here below:
- add a ribbon above her wings at the base of her neck to hang her from your tree
- add a bell under her skirt to create an angel bell
- add a battery operated tealight or candle under her skirt to light her up
- sprinkle glitter on her so she glitters in the lights from the tree
- add yarn hair or embroidery to her simple white outfit
- use some glue and glitter to accent her wings
- use her as a table-top angel
- use her as a tree-topper for your tree
- you can create (or purchase) a paper, or plastic cone to insert under her skirt to help her maintain her shape or simply use your fingers to rearrange her skirt into position.
- trouble getting her to stay on top of the tree? simply insert part of a paper towel roll (or toilet paper roll) beneath her dress and over the bendy bit on the tree (or use the cone mentioned in the point above)
Mistletoe Christmas Angel Ornament Pattern
- Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver – (7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m), 100% acrylic. Medium  Weight.
Color: White. My finished angel used 72 yards.
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G) Furls Odyssey (pictured) was used for the entire project EXCEPT the halo
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (is recommended – safety pins work/paper clips too/hoop earrings)
- HALO: Bowdabra Bow Wire – Color Gold and 2.25 mm (B) crochet hook, Dollar store Holly Sprigs – cut a small piece for her to hold – you can also check out miniature ornaments to find other fun things for the Angels to hold, like poinsettias, bells, candles, etc.
5 inches tall (not including the halo), 3.75 inches wide when standing and measuring the diameter of the skirt
Not imperative but if your stitches have big spaces between them that you can see through you need to go down a hook size (or two) until you are crocheting a more solid fabric. Only a few rounds of the skirt are meant to have a more open appearance. All the top rounds are meant to be solid.
beg – beginning
bl – back loop
ch – chain
ch2sp – chain 2 space
ch3sp – chain 3 space
ch4sp – chain 4 space
dc – double crochet
DMR – double magic ring
FPdc – Front Post double crochet
FPhdc – Front Post half double crochet
FPsc – Front Post single crochet
R – row/round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
 – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Single Crochet Two Together – I recommend you only go under the front loop while doing the sc2tog for this project
- This project is worked in continuous rounds. You will need to use a stitch marker so you do not lose your place.
- Do not slip stitch to join at the end of rounds unless specified.
- When you work the sc2tog decreases work under the front loop only (it makes the stitch less thick).
- Ch 3 at the beginning of a round counts as 1 dc.
- Do not work into slip stitches unless specified.
- Options – easily stitch the hands together to make your angel ‘pray’ or give her something to hold in her hands.
- Add hair to her head if you’d like!
- Stitch a bell under her skirt, or add a ribbon to her back (above her wings) to make her an ornament for your tree.
- Add a handmade paper (or plastic) cone under her skirt to help her stay in shape on the top of your Christmas Tree.
Mistletoe Christmas Angel Ornament Crochet Pattern
You are beginning at the top of the Angel’s head and working in continuous rounds to the base of the dress, all in one piece.
R1: Work 6 sc in a DMR. 
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. 
R3: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. 
R4: 1 sc in each st around. 
R5-R6: Rep R4
R7: *Sc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. 
I recommend you firmly stuff the head at this point.
R8: Sc2tog around. 
R9: 1 FPsc in each st around. 
R10: 1 sc and 1 FPsc in each st around. Sl st to the first sc to join. 
R11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 FPdc in the next FPsc, ch 2, sk the next sc and the next FPsc. *1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPdc in the next FPsc**. Rep from * to ** one more time. Ch 2, sk the next sc and the next FPsc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 FPdc in the next FPsc. Sl st in the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [4 dc, 4 FPdc, 2 ch2sp]
R12: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st (the FPdc), 1 dc in the bl of each of the next 2 chs, 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 1 dc in the bl of each of the next 2 chs, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts. 
R13: 1 FPhdc in each st around. 
R14: 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in the first sc to join. 
R15: 1 sc in the first st, ch 3, sk the next 3 sts. *1 sc in the next st, ch 3, sk the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first sc to join. [6 sc, 6 ch3sp]
R16: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same st (in first st where the sl st is already). 1 sl st in the next ch3sp. *3 dc in the next st, 1 sl st in the next ch3sp**. Rep from * to ** across. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [18 dc, 6 sl st]
R17: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same dc (in first dc where the sl st is already). 1 sl st in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, ch 1, sk the sl st. *2 dc in the next dc, 1 sl st in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, ch 1, sk the sl st**. Rep from * to ** around. [24 dc, 6 sl st, 6 ch1sp]
R18: 1 sc in the first dc, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts (the next 1 dc, 1 sl st, 1 dc), 1 sc in the next dc. *Ch 4, sk the ch1sp, sk the next 4 sts (the 2 dc, 1 sl st, 1 dc), 1 sc in the next dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sk the final ch1sp. Sl st to the first sc to join. [7 sc, 6 ch4sp]
R19: Move the ch4sp behind and out of the way while you work this round. Work 5 dc in the first sc, 1 FPdc around the sl st 2 rounds prior, ch 1, 1 FPdc around the same sl st 2 rounds prior. *5 dc in the next sc. 1 FPdc around the sl st 2 rounds prior, ch 1, 1 FPdc around the same sl st 2 rounds prior.**. Rep from * to ** around finishing by skipping the final sc of the round. Sl st to the first dc to join. [30 dc, 12 FPdc, 6 ch1sp]
R20: 1 sl st in each of the next 4 dc, 1 FPsc around the next FPdc, sk the ch1sp, 1 FPsc around the next FPdc. *1 sl st in each of the next 5 dc, 1 FPsc around the FPdc, sk the ch1sp, 1 FPsc around the next FPdc.** Rep from * to ** around. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any loose ends.
The arm is created in one piece; worked flat and then seamed on the long edges with a slip stitch seam. Once the arm is complete you thread it through the openings on either side of the angel’s body, being sure to keep an equal amount of “arm” on each side. You can whipstitch these in place if you wish – I did not. I simply used 2 small stitches to attach the hands together in a “prayer” pose.
R1: Ch 21, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn 
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn 
R3: Rep R2, ch 1, turn 
Fold the rectangle in half (along row 2) and seam the long edges using a slip stitch seam. Finish off and weave in any remaining ends.
R1: Ch 10, beg in the 2nd ch from the hook and work 1 sl st in the bl of each ch across, ch 1, turn 
R2: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 8 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn 
R3: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn 
R4: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 7 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn 
R5: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn 
R6: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 6 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn 
R7: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn 
R8: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 5 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn 
R9: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn 
R10: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 4 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn 
R11: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn 
R12: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 3 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn 
R13: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn to work along the row ends. 
You will be making a sc7tog. Insert hook in every other row end (there is a small space you will see) and pull up 1 loop in each. You will have 8 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Ch 1 and finish off leaving a long yarn tail to sew the wings in place.
To attach the wings use a whipstitch and secure them like this:
The halo is the only part of this project to use a different hook and thread. Please use the 2.25 mm (B) hook and the Gold Bowdabra Bow Wire. This is a thin piece of wire wrapped in gold metallic thread. I found mine at Michael’s in the ribbon section. It can stand on it’s own which is why I like it – and it is much thinner than pipecleaner (which was what I had been considering).
I crocheted the halo like this:
Ch 20, finish off leaving a tail of the bow wire. Now take the tail and thread it through the 7th chain from the opposite end. This will create the halo loop. Now twist (like a twist-tie) the two remaining ends together to make it straight and stiff. Take that one end (since you twisted them together you have one wire now) and thread it through the back of the angel’s head and down to the base of the neck before cutting off any of the excess wire. If you want to dab a bit of fabric glue in there to keep it in place you can.
The image below is for my Crochet Angels Pattern but the Halo design is the same: