Long Eared Bunny Crochet Pattern Free
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I love making toys – they are not always the most practical thing to crochet but they are so cute and my kids (and I) love them. This long eared bunny crochet pattern was designed to be made with just one ball of Bernat Pop! yarn and a 3.5 mm (E) crochet hook. You can of course substitute your favorite Medium Weight Yarn [4] for the project too!
Other supplies you will need include a pair of 12 mm safety eyes (or buttons) and fiberfill stuffing. You may also want a pom pom maker to make the tail, but I’ve included instructions on how to make your own pompoms just in case you don’t have one on-hand.
I recommend you hand stitch the eyes if you are giving this toy to a small child. Safety eyes are secure but they can break under pressure so it is best to be safe and sew the eyes like the nose has been done if you are gifting this to a baby.
I hope you love your Long Eared Crochet Bunny as much as we love ours! This is one of my favorite toys to make for Easter.
Long Eared Bunny Crochet Pattern Free
Supplies
- Yarn: 1 Ball of Bernat Pop! (5 oz / 140 g; 280 yds / 256 m). Medium Weight [4] yarn. 100% acrylic yarn.
- Color: Lipstick on Your Collar
- Crochet Hook: 3.5 mm (E)
- 12 mm safety eyes (2), Scissors, Yarn Needle, PolyFil, Pom Pom Maker, Stitch Marker (optional)
Difficulty Level
- Easy
Finished Size
- 17 inches tall (including ears); 4 inches wide across the bottom
Gauge
Gauge is not imperative for this project – please ensure that the stitches you make are close enough together for the fiberfil not to show through between them. If you can see spaces between your stitches please move down a hook size.
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
- bl – back loop
- CC – contrast color
- ch – chain
- dc – double crochet
- DMR – double magic ring
- g – grams
- hdc – half double crochet
- hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together (hdc decrease)
- m – meters
- MC – main color
- oz – ounces
- R – row
- Rnd – round
- rem – remaining
- rep – repeat
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- st/sts – stitch/stitches
- yds – yards
- * – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
- () – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
- [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Helpful Tutorials
Helpful Video Tutorials
Notes
- The head of the bunny is worked in a single color.
- The rest of the bunny is worked in stripes.
- You may wish to unroll the ball of yarn into individual colors to make the stripes smaller for the arms, legs and ears. Or you can alternately just work the bunny using the yarn as it comes out of the ball for larger and longer color stretches.
- This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch to join or chain additional stitches unless it is specified. You will need a stitch marker to mark your place.
- If you are comfortable placing your ‘increases’ (i.e. when you make 2 hdc in a stitch) you can scatter them throughout the round instead of placing them in the same spot in each round. By scattering them it will give you a rounder shape to the finished project. The bunny I crocheted does not have scattered stitches so you may see the increases as the pattern is written. She still looks just fine 🙂
- Color Changes – I have indicated where I made my color changes in the instructions and the colors I have used. If you want to make your bunny striped too I recommend that you make your color changes on the last yarn over of the last st of the round.
- MC: dark pink, CC: light pink, CC1: dark grey, CC2 light grey, CC3 white
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Library here.
Free Long Eared Bunny Crochet Pattern
The pattern is worked from the top of the bunny’s head to the bottom of his body. The arms, legs and ears are stitched on afterwards using a simple whip stitch sewing method.
You will use your 3.5 mm (E) crochet hook for the entire project.
Eye Patches
(make 2)
Make these first as you will need them in order to assemble the bunny’s head in the next step.
With CC2 (light grey):
Rnd 1: Crochet 12 sc in a DMR (see video tutorial on how to begin you double magic ring here). [12 sc]
Finish off with an invisible join, leaving a long tail for sewing to the bunny body.
- Put these 2 eye patches aside until it is time to position the eyes on the head after R13 of the BODY.
Muzzle
With CC3 (light grey):
Rnd 1: In a DMR, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) and work 11 dc. [12 dc]
Finish off with an invisible join, leaving a long tail for sewing to the bunny body.
- Put this aside until after you have finished the body.
Head
I began crocheting with the first color available in the ball of yarn.
TIP: If you would like to use a different color as the main head color, please separate the yarn colors in your ball before you begin.
- The first color in my ball was dark pink and I used dark pink.
With MC (dark pink):
Rnd 1: Crochet 6 hdc in a DMR (see video tutorial on how to begin your double magic ring here). [6 hdc]
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around. [12 hdc]
Rnd 3: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18 hdc]
Rnd 4: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [24 hdc]
Rnd 5: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [30 hdc]
R6: 1 hdc in each st around. [30 hdc]
Rnd 7-Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 6
Rnd 11: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [24 hdc]
Rnd 12: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [18 hdc]
Rnd 13: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around [12 hdc]
I recommend you stuff the head at this point and then position the safety eyes.
Here’s how I do this: I stuff the head completely and place the patches (crocheted first – above) and the safety eyes in position without putting on the back washers. Next, I remove the stuffing and place the washers on the backs of the safety pegs. Once I am certain they are safely secure, I re-stuff the head firmly – but not to the point that it stretches the stitches apart.
Rnd 14: 1 hdc in each st around. [12 hdc]
Rnd 15: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18 hdc]
Rnd 16: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [24 hdc]
With CC (light pink):
Rnd 17: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [30]
Rnd 18: 1 hdc in each st around [30]
I recommend you stuff the neck firmly at this point – this will ensure it can support the head of the bunny. We will stuff the body after Rnd 32.
Rnd 19: Rep R18
Rnd 20: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [36]
Rnd 21: 1 hdc in each st around [36]
With CC1 (dark grey):
Rnd 22-Rnd 23: 1 hdc in each st around [36]
Rnd 24: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [42]
With CC2 (light grey):
Rnd 25-Rnd 27: 1 hdc in each st around. [42]
With MC (dark pink):
Rnd 28: 1 hdc in each st around [42]
Rnd 29: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [36]
Rnd 30: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [30]
Rnd 31: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around [20]
TIP: We just did a decrease of 10 stitches in R31. Please check to be sure you have 20 stitches.
Rnd 32: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 6 times. 1 hdc in each of the last 2 sts. [14]
I recommend you stuff the body firmly at this point.
Rnd 33: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 4 times. 1 hdc in each of the last 2 sts. [10]
Finish off leaving a tail of yarn to close the bunny.
- The way I do this is the same as how I weave to close my mittens and hats worked from the bottom up. Thread the yarn end on your needle and working through the front loops (the ones closest to you) weave your yarn in and out of the last 10 stitches before pulling and tightening the round to close it completely. I have a tutorial here to show you how this is done: Simple Closing Method
Tip: When I am crocheting two of something which need to match I make the time to crochet both in the same sitting. I find my gauge is closer and both pieces are the same if I work them in a single sitting.
Arms
(make 2)
We are beginning at the hands and work to the shoulders. I planned my bunny colors to make the stitches at the shoulders match the color of the stitches at the shoulder of the bunny body. This makes joining look neater.
With CC3 (white):
Rnd 1: Crochet 8 hdc in a DMR. [8]
Rnd 2: 1 hdc in each st around. [8]
Rnd 3: Rep R2
With CC1 (dark grey):
Rnd 4: 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts. [9]
With MC (dark pink):
Rnd 5: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 5 [9]
With CC3 (white):
Rnd 7: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
With CC2 (light grey):
Rnd 8-Rnd 10: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
With CC (light pink):
Rnd 11: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
With MC (dark pink):
Rnd 12-Rnd 16: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn for assembly.
- Stuff both arms firmly and set aside.
Legs
(make 2)
We are beginning at the feet and working to the top of the thigh. As with the arms I planned for the color of yarn at the top of the thigh to match the body color where it would attach.
With CC3 (white):
Rnd 1: Crochet 10 hdc in a DMR. [10]
Rnd 2-Rnd 6: 1 hdc in each around. [10]
With CC1 (dark grey):
Rnd 7-Rnd 10: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
With MC (dark pink):
Rnd 11-Rnd 15: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
With CC3 (white):
Rnd 16-Rnd 18: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
With MC (dark pink):
Rnd 19: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn for assembly.
- Stuff both legs firmly and set aside.
Ears
(make 2)
We are beginning at the tip of the ears and working toward the part that will attach to the top of the head. As with the arms and legs, I planned for the color which joins to the head to be the same color as the top of the head.
TIP: for longer ears, add 1 additional round of each color!
With CC2 (light grey):
Rnd 1: Crochet 6 hdc in a DMR. [6]
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. [18]
Rnd 4: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
With CC3 (white):
Rnd 5-Rnd 6: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
With CC1 (light pink):
Rnd 7-Rnd 11: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
With MC (dark pink):
Rnd 12- Rnd 15: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
Rnd 19: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts**. Rep from * to ** one more time. [16]
Rnd 20: 1 hdc in each st around. [16]
Rnd 21: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sts**. Rep from * to ** one more time. [14]
Rnd 22: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** one more time. [12]
Finish off leaving a long tail for assembly.
- The ears are NOT stuffed.
TIP: for a floppy eared bunny skip the next bit. Do not fold the ears in half to create the seamed fold in the ear.
For standing ears:
- Fold the ears in half lengthwise.
- The 12 stitches of R22 will be folded in half to create a double layer 6 stitches wide.
- Line up those 6 stitches and then whipstitch them closed together. (i.e. Thread your yarn end on your yarn needle and whip stitch through both layers of the ear at R22.)
- This creates a fold in the ear.
- Do not finish off as you will still need to attach these to the top of the head.
Tail
- Create a Pom Pom for the tail.
- I used this tool and then trimmed A LOT of the extra yarn off to make it super firm.
- My finished pom pom tail is 2 inches by 2 inches.
- Put this aside until you are ready to attach it to the body.
If you don’t have a pom pom maker I have a tutorial here on how to make your own pom pom without one: How to Make A Pom Pom
Nose
I used one of the colors of yarn (CC – light pink) in the ball and working from the center hole in the muzzle, simply stitched up to top of the dc stitches (beneath the front and back loop of the stitches) to create the nose shape.
It took about 10 stitches to create the nose.
Finish off and weave in ends on the backside of the muzzle in the same section where you added the nose color.
Assembly Instructions
I began by adding the nose to the muzzle for the bunny, then I attached the arms and the legs.
I added the ears next and finally the tail.
Next position the muzzle where you would like it on the face.
You can see mine for an example here:
Working around the post of the dc stitches beneath the front and back loops, hand stitch the muzzle in place two thirds of the way around.
Try to work into the spaces between the stitches and try not to split the yarn to make it nice and neat.
Stuff the muzzle with a bit of Poly-fil and then finish stitching the muzzle in place.
For a visual for how I worked around the posts of the stitches please see the image below. This is an example from my Not Another Owl Hat Pattern.
Arms, Legs and Ears
If you are nervous about where you are going to attach your pieces, you can attach the pieces with a safety pin, or long sewing pin and move it around until you like how it looks.
I simply whip-stitched each piece on securely before weaving in my ends.
If you’d like your ears to flop downwards instead you can easily sew them onto the top of the head facing downward, instead of sewing them firmly on each side to face upward.
You can see my bunny here and decide if you like where the parts are located – or try a different position.
For a whip stitch tutorial please see this post.
Tail
I tied one more strand of the white yarn around the center of the pompom tightly before sewing it directly into the body of the bunny.
Add a Ravelry Project Page for your Long Eared Bunny here
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Happy crocheting!
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