Happy Christmas in July Crocheters! Meet Holly, our 2021 Christmas Angel. Get the free written crochet pattern for Holly, below in my post.
I’m participating in the annual #CIJmakealong2021 (Christmas in July Make Along) hosted by Marie at Underground Crafter. Every day in July there is something new to make – projects for crochet, knitting, sewing and crafts are all included. You can see the Calendar of Events, Prizes (yes did I forget to mention – there are giveaways taking place for this CAL) and join us for our make along by visiting Marie’s post here: Christmas in July Make Along
2021 Christmas Angel Pattern – Holly
- Yarn: Bernat Super Value – (7 oz/197 g; 440 yds/402 m), 100% acrylic. Medium  Weight Yarn. Machine washable and dryable.
- Color: White (164053)
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G) Furls Streamline Swirl Virgo (pictured) was used for the entire project EXCEPT the halo
- Yardage: 54 g (1.9 oz) and 121 yds (110 m)
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker
- Small amount of Poly-Fil
- HALO: Bowdabra Bow Wire – Color Gold and 2.25 mm (B) crochet hook
8 inches tall (not including the halo), 4 inches wide when standing and measuring the diameter of the skirt
Not imperative but if your stitches have spaces between them that you can see through you need to go down a hook size (or two) until you are crocheting a more solid fabric.
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.
US Terminology used
beg – beginning
bl – back loop
BPsc – back post single crochet
ch – chain
ch2sp – chain 2 space
ch4sp – chain 4 space
dc – double crochet
DMR – double magic ring
dtr – double treble
fl – front loop
FPsc – Front Post single crochet
g – grams
hdc – half double crochet
m – meters
oz – ounces
R – round
rem – remaining
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
tr – treble
yds – yards
* to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain multiple instructions.
 – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
() – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space
Front Post Single Crochet
Single Crochet Two Together – I recommend you only go under the front loop while doing the sc2tog for this project|
Quick Stitch Guide
Slip Knot and Starting Chain
DMR – double magic ring
- This project is worked in continuous rounds. You will need to use a stitch marker so you do not lose your place.
- Do not slip stitch to join at the end of rounds unless specified.
- When you work the sc2tog decreases work under the front loop only (it makes the stitch less thick).
- Do not work into slip stitches unless specified.
- Make your Ravelry Project Page here: 2021 Christmas Angel Holly
Holly features a brand-new wing design! If you prefer one of the other wing designs you can access the patterns here:
This Angel is crocheted with Medium Weight Yarn and a 4 mm (G) hook. Like my other crochet Angels, she does not require stiffening to stand and can be crocheted in only a few short hours.
See my other Angel Patterns here: Crochet Angel Patterns by Rhondda Mol
- Easily stitch the hands together to make your angel ‘pray’ or give her something to hold in her hands.
- Add hair to her head if you’d like!
- Stitch a bell under her skirt, or add a ribbon to her back (above her wings) to make her an ornament for your tree.
- Add a handmade paper (or plastic) cone under her skirt to help her stay in shape on the top of your Christmas Tree.
Holly 2021 Christmas Angel Crochet Pattern
PIN now, make later ↓
You are beginning at the top of the Angel’s head and working in continuous rounds to the base of the dress, all in one piece.
Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):
R1: Work 6 sc in a DMR. [6 sc]
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. [12 sc]
R3: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Work from * to ** around. [18 sc]
R4: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts**. Work from * to ** around. [24 sc]
R5-R7: 1 sc in each st around. [24 sc]
R8: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts**. Work from * to ** around. [18 sc]
R9: *Sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st**. Work from * to ** around. [12 sc]
Fill the head with Poly-Fil but do not overstuff.
R10: Sc2tog around. [6 sc]
R11: 1 FPsc in each st around. [6 FPsc]
R12: 2 FPsc in each st around. [12 FPsc]
R13: 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [14 sc]
R14: 1 sc in each st around. [14 sc]
R15: 1 sc in the first st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [10 sc, 2 ch3sp]
R16: 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 3 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 3 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts [16 sc]
R17: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts**. Work from * to ** around. [20 sc]
R18-R22: 1 sc in each st around. [20 sc]
R23: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts**. Work from * to ** around. [25 sc]
NOTE: from this point on you will be working in the back loop (bl) of each stitch. This leaves the front loop (fl) unworked – which is necessary for the skirt ruffles to be added.
R24-25: 1 sc in the bl of each st around. [25 sc]
R26: *2 sc in the bl of the next st, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 4 sts**. Work from * to ** around. [30 sc]
R27-R28: 1 sc in the bl of each st around. [30 sc]
R29: *2 sc in the bl of the next st, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 5 sts**. Work from * to ** around. [35 sc]
R30-R31: 1 sc in the bl of each st around. [35 sc]
R32: *2 sc in the bl of the next st, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 6 sts**. Work from * to ** around. [40 sc]
R33-R35: 1 sc in the bl of each st around. [40 sc]
NOTE: The next round is worked in both loops.
R36: 1 sc in each st around. [40 sc]
R37: 1 BPsc in each st around. Finish off with an invisible join to the first BPsc of the round. [40 BPsc]
Rejoin your yarn in the fl of the last st worked in R35.
R1: 1 sl st in the fl of the first st. *2 dc in the fl of the next st, 1 sl st in the fl of the next st**. Work from * to ** around (and around) until you have worked every fl in the skirt from R35 to R26. Finish off.
Note: if you are a little bit off and end up finishing with 2 dc, sl st in the same stitch as those last 2 dc to finish off.
Final Ruffle Round
Add the final round of skirt ruffles by joining your yarn with a sl st in fl of the last sc worked in R36.
R1: *2 dc in the fl of the next st, 1 sl st in the fl of the next st**. Work from * to ** around, making the final sl st in the first sl st worked in R1 of the Skirt Ruffles (above). Finish off. [40 dc, 20 sl st (plus joining sl st)]
The arm is created in one piece; worked flat and then seamed on the long edges with a slip stitch seam. Once the arm is complete you thread it through the openings on either side of the angel’s body, being sure to keep an equal amount of “arm” on each side. You can whipstitch these in place if you wish – I did not. I simply used 2 small stitches to attach the hands together in a “prayer” pose.
R1: Ch 26, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn [25 sc]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [25 sc]
Fold the rectangle in half (along row 2) and seam the long edges using a slip stitch seam, or whipstitch the 2 edges together. Finish off. [25 sl st]
R1: Work ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in a DMR. Turn. [5 dc, ch2sp]
R2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr) and 2 tr in the first st, 2 dc in the next st, 3 hdc in the ch2sp, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sl st in each of the next 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. [3 tr, 2 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sl st]
R3: Sk the first sl st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 tr in the next st and 1 dtr in the next st, (the ch 4 at the beg of R2). Turn. [1 dtr, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 5 sc]
R4: Ch 4, sk the first st, 1 sl st in the next st. *Ch 4, 1 sl st in the next st**. Work from * to ** across making your last sl st in the first sc of R3. Finish off. [10 ch4sp, 10 sl st]
The halo is the only part of this project to use a different hook and thread. Please use the 2.25 mm (B) hook and the Gold Bowdabra Bow Wire. This is a thin piece of wire wrapped in gold metallic thread. I found mine at Michael’s in the ribbon section. It can stand on it’s own which is why I like it – and it is much thinner than pipe-cleaner (which was what I had been considering).
You may have noticed 3 seed beads in my halo – I wanted to see if these would hold up (or if they would be too heavy) for the halo. If you like the look of the clear glass beads, you can add 15 to your bowdabra wire before you begin crocheting the halo. Then slide one down to your hook, before each ch you make for the first 15 of the 21 chains you make.
I crocheted the halo like this:
Ch 22, finish off leaving a tail of the bow wire. Now take the tail and thread it through the 6th chain from the opposite end. This will create the halo loop with approximately 15 chs.
Now twist (like a twist-tie) the two remaining ends together to make it straight and stiff. Take that one end (since you twisted them together you have one wire now) and thread it through the back of the angel’s head and down to the base of the neck before cutting off any of the excess wire. If you want to dab a bit of fabric glue in there to keep it in place you can.
Angel Finishing Instructions
Wings – You may sew the wings on the back using the yarn tail and your yarn needle, where you’d like them to be. This is how I positioned my Angel Wings:
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