Halloween Monster Panel in C2C Crochet

When you purchase through links on my site, I may earn an affiliate commission.
Here’s how it works.

This is the third panel I have created along the Halloween Theme. You can make your Halloween monster in any colors you want and even omit the bolts in his neck if you wish. You can get the other Halloween themed panels right >HERE<

Each panel takes me about one day to crochet so you still have plenty of time to make one, or two of them before next week – or if you prefer you can just save them (PIN them here) for next year to crochet.

You can even make multiple panels and join them together as an afghan. If you make all 4 panels you will have a 40 by 40 inch blanket. You can even add some solid color panels to increase the size, or make multiple of some of the panels instead.

Halloween Monster C2C Crochet Panel

I have helpful photo tutorials for left and right handed versions of the corner to corner stitch available on my blog (linked below in Helpful Tutorials).

In the past I’ve always used a chain 2 version of the C2C stitch but for these panels I tried using a ch 3 instead of a ch 2 for these and it gives the finished square a bit more puffiness so it is up to you whether you use the traditional (Ch 3, 3 dc), or you do the (Ch 2, 3 dc) version of the C2C stitch. If you are using the Ch 3 version, start with a ch 6. If you are using the Ch 2 version start with a chain 5. My photo tutorial demonstrates the ch 2 version so if you are using ch 3, just be sure to ch 3 instead. It has great photos in it showing which ways to turn your work and where you need to work your stitches.

I used Stitch Fiddle to create my charts and each square is approximately 1.25 inches in size (so each C2C square measures approximately 1.25 inches by 1.25 inches).

Supplies

  • Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in your choice of colors.  7 oz (198g) / 364 yds (333 m); 100% acrylic
  • Hook: 5 mm (H) Clover Amour
  • Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker, 30-inch barbecue skewer/marshmallow skewer (optional)


Difficulty Level

Easy

Finished Size

20 inches by 20 inches

Gauge

each C2C square measures approximately 1.25 inches by 1.25 inches

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

ch – chain
ch3sp – chain 3 space
dc – double crochet
R – row
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Helpful Tutorials

Corner to Corner (Right Handed)

Corner to Corner (Left Handed)

Mikey has a great video tutorial available here for video learners:

Stitch Anatomy

Helpful Video Tutorials

Quick Stitch Guide 

Slip Knot and Starting Chain

Notes

  • INCREASES:  Ch 6, beg in the 4th ch from your hook (the sk 3 ch counts as the first ch3sp) and work 1 dc in the 4th ch and in each of the next 2 chs.
  • DECREASES: Ch 3, sl st to the next ch3sp.
  • I worked my decreases by working a sl st into the final C2C square and then turning and chaining 3 and then sl st into the next ch3sp (rather than sl st across the 3 dc like I did with my dishcloths in the photo tutorial, to get back to the next square I needed to work into).
  • COLOR CHANGES: How I worked my color changes. If the next C2C square I was working into was the same color as I was currently using, I would sl st in the same color that was on my hook and then make my color change in the first ch 1 I worked of the ch 3. So if I was crocheting in black and the next C2C square I need to work was supposed to be white, I checked to see what color yarn I used in the next ch3sp. If it was black then I used the black on my hook to sl st into it and then yarned over in the white to begin my ch 3. If the ch3sp color was white, I completed the last dc using the white on the last yarn over, and then worked the sl st in white. Basically I wanted my sl st to be the same color as the ch3sp I was joining into and worked my color changes to make sure it would be.
  • EDGING: I added a very basic edging to my panel. When I was done the panel and had woven in my ends, I  already had the ch 3, sl st edging on two full sides. To add this edging to the other 2 sides, I joined my yarn in the next unworked side C2C square (where the ch 3, sl st was missing) and worked a sl st, ch 3, for each C2C square around. Once each C2C square had the sl st, ch 3 edge and I was back at the initial square, I worked a sl st, ch 4 for each square around. Then I finished off and wove in my ends.

Add this to Queue and Favorites

Halloween Monster Panel in C2C Crochet

Halloween Monster Grid Free C2C Oombawka Design

Start at the arrow in the bottom right corner and work diagonally from left to right beginning at Row 1. For written instructions for the color chart scroll to the end of my post!


To begin: Chain 3, C2C method

Row 1: Ch 6, beg in the 4th ch from your hook (the sk 3 ch becomes your first ch3sp) and work 1 dc in the 4th ch and in each of the next 2 chs. [1 C2C square = ch3, 3 dc]

Row 2: Ch 6, beg in the 4th ch from your hook (the sk 3 ch becomes a ch3sp for the next row) and work 1 dc in the 4th ch and in each of the next 2 chs. Rotate your work (view photo tutorial here for which way to rotate), sl st in the ch3sp from the first C2C square in Row 1. Ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch3sp. [2 C2C squares]

Row 3: INCREASE (Ch 6, beg in the 4th ch from your hook (the sk 3 ch becomes a ch3sp for the next row) and work 1 dc in the 4th ch and in each of the next 2 chs. Rotate your work – see tutorial for help). Sl st in the next ch3sp. Ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch3sp. Sl st in the next ch3sp. 3 dc in the same ch3sp. Turn. [3 C2C squares]

Row 4: INCREASE (Ch 6, beg in the 4th ch from your hook (the sk 3 ch becomes a ch3sp for the next row) and work 1 dc in the 4th ch and in each of the next 2 chs. Rotate your work – see tutorial for help). *Sl st in the next ch3sp. Ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch3sp.** Rep from * to ** 3 times. Turn. [4 C2C squares]

Continue the INCREASE rows working colors as per the chart included above adding one more * to ** repeat for each row worked until you reach the first corner (after you complete Row 25).

Row 26: DECREASE (Ch 3, sk the next 3 dc). *Sl st in the next ch3sp. Ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch3sp.** Rep from * to ** 24 times. Turn. [24 C2C squares]

Row 27: DECREASE (Ch 3, sk the next 3 dc). *Sl st in the next ch3sp. Ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch3sp.** Rep from * to ** 23 times. Turn. [23 C2C squares]

Row 28: DECREASE (Ch 3, sk the next 3 dc). *Sl st in the next ch3sp. Ch 3, 3 dc in the same ch3sp.** Rep from * to ** 22 times. Turn. [22 C2C squares]

Continue the DECREASE rows working colors as per the chart included above working one less * to ** repeat for each row worked until you reach the last corner (after you complete Row 49)

Finishing

Weave in all your ends. Look at your panel and find the first stitch on the edge that does not have a ch3sp. Join your yarn in the side edge of this C2C square with a sl st and then ch 3. Sl st, ch 3, for every C2C square around. Once each outer C2C square has the ch3sp, sl st into the next sl st and ch 4. Continue working around the outside of the panel and crochet 1 sl st in each sl st and ch 4, for every C2C square around. Finish off with a sl st and weave in ends.

Now you can either weave a long dowel (or use a large bamboo barbecue skewer from the dollar store like me) through the back of the panel –

Pumpkin Panel Skewer Technique ODC Free C2C panel

I went through one loop of a sl st, every 2 C2C squares to make it secure – and then display your panel in the front window using fishing line, or thread/yarn. Tie your line or thread to the two outer ends of the dowel/skewer and then hang it from a large suction cup (dollar store again!) or you can try one of these removable hooks available from Command.


WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE COLOR CHART

This includes written instructions for the color changes only.

Row 1 [WS]: C2C Stitch in white
Row 2 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 3 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 3
Row 4 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 5 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 5
Row 6 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 5, C2C Stitch in black
Row 7 [WS]: C2C Stitch in white, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in white) x 5
Row 8 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 5, (C2C Stitch in black) x 2, C2C Stitch in green
Row 9 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in green) x 2, (C2C Stitch in white) x 7
Row 10 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 6
Row 11 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in green) x 7, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 12 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 8
Row 13 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in green) x 9, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 14 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 3, (C2C Stitch in green) x 11
Row 15 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in green) x 12, (C2C Stitch in white) x 3
Row 16 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 3, (C2C Stitch in green) x 6, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 6
Row 17 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in green) x 6, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 6, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 18 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 7, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 6
Row 19 [WS]: C2C Stitch in white, (C2C Stitch in green) x 5, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 8, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 20 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 9, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, (C2C Stitch in black) x 2
Row 21 [WS]: C2C Stitch in white, C2C Stitch in black, C2C Stitch in white, (C2C Stitch in green) x 3, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 5, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 22 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, C2C Stitch in black, C2C Stitch in white, (C2C Stitch in green) x 5, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 3, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 23 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 9, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 24 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in black) x 2, (C2C Stitch in green) x 3, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in green) x 10, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 25 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 5, (C2C Stitch in green) x 13, (C2C Stitch in black) x 3, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4

Corner

Decreases begin here.

Row 26 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 3, (C2C Stitch in black) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 13, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 27 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 12, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 28 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in green) x 5, C2C Stitch in white, (C2C Stitch in green) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 29 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, (C2C Stitch in black) x 2, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 30 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in green) x 3, (C2C Stitch in black) x 2, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 31 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 8, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 32 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in green) x 8, (C2C Stitch in white) x 3
Row 33 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 3, (C2C Stitch in green) x 7, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 34 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in green) x 6, (C2C Stitch in white) x 3
Row 35 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 4, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 36 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in green) x 3, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 37 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in green) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 38 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, C2C Stitch in green, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 39 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in black) x 5, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 40 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 4, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 41 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, (C2C Stitch in black) x 3, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 42 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2, (C2C Stitch in black) x 2, (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 43 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4, C2C Stitch in black, (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 44 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 6
Row 45 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 5
Row 46 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 4
Row 47 [WS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 3
Row 48 [RS]: (C2C Stitch in white) x 2
Row 49 [WS]: C2C Stitch in white

Find my other C2C patterns >HERE<

[pt_view id=”f3aebcd8i3″]

Signature

Never miss a stitch with Oombawka Design Crochet! Subscribe for exclusive patterns, gift ideas, and tutorials delivered straight to your inbox. Follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, and Instagram for the latest updates!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.