Guardian Angel Crochet Pattern #cijmakealong2019

Welcome to Oombawka Design Crochet! Today I am sharing a new free crochet Angel pattern with you as part of the Christmas In July Make Along with Underground Crafter.

Throughout the course of this Make Along, 31 original projects will be presented for you to create. The projects include crochet, knitting and sewing crafts. Along with the great free patterns designed for this event, there is also a fun giveaway with prizes you can enter. Learn all about the CAL and how you can participate here: Christmas in July Make Along 2019

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This Angel is crocheted with Red Heart Super Saver (medium weight) yarn; beginning at the top her head and worked in continuous rounds to the base of her skirt. You will add the wings to the back of her dress using simple whip-stitches at the end, crochet the ‘arm’ and simply insert it through the small holes in her dress you created by following the crocheting instructions and slip the crocheted halo between the stitches at the back of her head.

Add your project to Ravelry >HERE<

I’d like to introduce you to my Guardian Angel Crochet Pattern.

This Angel is crocheted with medium weight yarn and a 4 mm (G) hook. Like my other crochet Angels, she does not require stiffening to stand and can be crocheted in only a few short hours.

The smaller Angel is crocheted with Red Heart Fashion Crochet Thread (Size 3) and a 3.25 mm hook. She measures 4.5 inches tall and 2.25 inches wide.

Guardian Angel Crochet Pattern

Supplies

• Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver – (7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m), 100% acrylic. Medium [4] Weight.
  Color: White. My finished angel used 0.95 oz / 27 g (50 yards / 46 m)
• Hook: 4.0 mm (G) Furls Odyssey (pictured) in the photos of the wings. 
• Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (is recommended – safety pins work/paper clips too/hoop earrings)
• Poly-Fil
• HALO: Bowdabra Bow Wire – Color Gold and 2.25 mm (B) crochet hook

Difficulty Level

EASY-INTERMEDIATE

Finished Size

6.5 inches tall (not including the halo), 3 inches wide when standing and measuring the diameter of the skirt 

Gauge

Not imperative but if your stitches have spaces between them that you can see through you need to go down a hook size (or two) until you are crocheting a more solid fabric.

 

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

beg – beginning

bl – back loop

BPsc – back post single crochet

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

DMR – double magic ring

FPsc – Front Post single crochet

R – round

rem – remaining

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 together

sk – skip

sl st – slip stitch

Sp-sc – special single crochet

st/sts – stitch/stitches

* to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.

[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

() – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space

Special Stitches

Special Single Crochet (sp-sc)

Insert hook into the specified stitch, yarn over and pull up 1 loop, ch 3, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. 

Click to enlarge the photos:

Helpful Tutorials

Stitch Anatomy

Invisible Join

Front Post Single Crochet

Single Crochet Two Together – I recommend you only go under the front loop while doing the sc2tog for this project

 

Helpful Video Tutorials

Quick Stitch Guide 

Slip Knot and Starting Chain

DMR – double magic ring

I demonstrated how to make one of my other Crochet Angel Patterns (Patience) in a full length YouTube Video Pattern Tutorial. You can view the video tutorial for the arms, wings and halo here:

Arms:  https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1335

Wings: https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1505

Halo: https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1913

Notes

• This project is worked in continuous rounds. You will need to use a stitch marker so you do not lose your place.
• Do not slip stitch to join at the end of rounds unless specified.
• When you work the sc2tog decreases work under the front loop only (it makes the stitch less thick).
• Ch 3 at the beginning of a round counts as 1 dc.
• Do not work into slip stitches unless specified.
• Options – easily stitch the hands together to make your angel ‘pray’ or give her something to hold in her hands.
• Add hair to her head if you’d like!
• Stitch a bell under her skirt, or add a ribbon to her back (above her wings) to make her an ornament for your tree.
• Add a handmade paper (or plastic) cone under her skirt to help her stay in shape on the top of your Christmas Tree.

 

Guardian Angel Crochet Pattern

You are beginning at the top of the Angel’s head and working in continuous rounds to the base of the dress, all in one piece.

Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: Work 6 sc in a DMR. [6 sc]

 

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. [12 sc]

 

R3: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18 sc]

 

R4-R6: 1 sc in each st around. [18 sc]

 

R7: *Sc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [12 sc]

 

I recommend you firmly stuff the head at this point.

 

R8: Sc2tog around. [6 sc]

 

R9: 1 FPsc in each st around. [6 FPsc]

 

R10: 1 sc and 1 FPsc in each st around. [6 sc, 6 FPsc]

 

R11: 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [14 sc]

 

R12: 1 sc in the first st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [10 sc, 2 ch3sp]

 

R13: 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 3 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 3 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts [16 sc]

R14: 1 sc in each st around. [16 sc]

R15: 1 FPsc in each st around. Sl st to the first FPsc to join. [16 FPsc]

R16: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) and 2 dc in the first FPsc (this is the same FPsc that you sl st to join in at the end of R15) and sk the next FPsc. *3 dc in the next FPsc, sk the next FPsc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join.  [24 dc]

R17-R19: 1 sl st in each of the next 2 dc, 1 sl st into the sp bef the next dc, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) and 2 dc in the same sp. *Sk 3 dc, 3 dc into the sp bef the next dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [24 dc]

R20: 1 sl st in each of the next 2 dc, 1 sl st into the sp bef the next dc, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) and 3 dc in the same sp. *Sk 3 dc, 4 dc into the sp bef the next dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [32 dc]

R21: 1 sl st in each of the next 3 dc, 1 sl st into the sp bef the next dc, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) and 3 dc in the same sp. *Sk 4 dc, 4 dc into the sp bef the next dc**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [32 dc]

R22: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 FPsc in each st around. [32 FPsc]

We will not be working into the FPsc from R22. Instead, we will be working into the top of the double crochet stitches (under the front and back loops) that you can still see behind the FPsc from R22.

R23: Working behind the FPsc and into the dc sts from R21: 1 sc in each st around. [32 sc]

R24: *1 sc in the first st, 1 sp-sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [16 sc, 16 sp-sc]

R25: 1 sc in each st around. [32 sc]

R26: 1 BPsc in each st around. Finish off with an invisible join. [32 BPsc]

Arms

Make 1.

The arm is created in one piece; worked flat and then seamed on the long edges with a slip stitch seam. Once the arm is complete you thread it through the openings on either side of the angel’s body, being sure to keep an equal amount of “arm” on each side. You can whipstitch these in place if you wish – I did not. I simply used 2 small stitches to attach the hands together in a “prayer” pose.

R1: Ch 21, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn [20]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [20]
R3: Rep R2, ch 1, turn [20]
Fold the rectangle in half (along row 2) and seam the long edges using a slip stitch seam. Finish off and weave in any remaining ends.

Wings

Make 2

R1: Ch 10, beg in the 2nd ch from the hook and work 1 sl st in the bl of each ch across, ch 1, turn [9]

R2: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 8 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [8]

R3: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [8]

R4: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 7 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [7]

R5: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [7]

R6: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 6 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [6]

R7: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [6]

R8: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 5 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [5]

R9: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [5]

R10: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 4 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [4]

R11: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn [4]

R12: 1 sl st in the bl of each of the next 3 sts, sk the last st, ch 2, turn [3]

R13: 1 sl st in the bl of each st across, ch 1, turn to work along the row ends. [3]

You will be making a sc7tog. Insert hook in every other row end (there is a small space you will see) and pull up 1 loop in each. You will have 8 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Ch 1 and finish off leaving a long yarn tail to sew the wings in place.

 

To attach the wings use a whip stitch and secure them like this:

 

Halo

The halo is the only part of this project to use a different hook and thread. Please use the 2.25 mm (B) hook and the Gold Bowdabra Bow Wire. This is a thin piece of wire wrapped in gold metallic thread. I found mine at Michael’s in the ribbon section. It can stand on it’s own which is why I like it – and it is much thinner than pipe-cleaner (which was what I had been considering).

I crocheted the halo like this:

Ch 20, finish off leaving a tail of the bow wire. Now take the tail and thread it through the 7th chain from the opposite end. This will create the halo loop. Now twist (like a twist-tie) the two remaining ends together to make it straight and stiff. Take that one end (since you twisted them together you have one wire now) and thread it through the back of the angel’s head and down to the base of the neck before cutting off any of the excess wire. If you want to dab a bit of fabric glue in there to keep it in place you can.

The image below is for my Crochet Angels Pattern but the Halo design is the same:

Extra Angel Photos

#RedHeartYarns

#joycreators

#cijmakealong2019