Parker Cardigan Crochet Pattern

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Meghann Chupp from Twisted Arrow Designs has written a beautiful cardigan pattern for us. The Parker Cardigan Crochet Pattern is customizable to any size – that’s right – you can make this beautiful project no matter how big, or how small you are! So go get your yarn, a light worsted weight yarn will work perfectly and your crochet hook and let’s get started!

The yarn used in the pattern is Loops & Threads, Joy DK.

  • Weight: Light (3)
  • Contents: 100% Acrylic
  • Skein Weight: 3.5 oz / 100 g
  • Yardage: 273 yds / 250 m

If you would like to have a sweater in the same weight yarn, here are some substitutes for Loops & Threads Joy DK if you do not have that specific brand of yarn available in your area:

King Cole Fjord DK, Lincraft Double Knitting, Hobbii Butterfly, Knit Picks Brava Worsted Lite, Loops & Threads Baby Cuddles, King Cole Beaches DK, King Cole Paradise Beaches DK, King Cole Tropical Beaches DK, Bernat Softee Baby, Stylecraft Colour Twist, Stylecraft Sweet Dreams DK, King Cole Melody DK, Ice Yarns Classic DK, King Cole Shine, King Cole Baby Stripe DK, Lion Brand Ice Cream Yarn, Patons (Astra), Premier Yarns DK Colors, Premier Yarns Luna, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK

Be sure to pop by one of Meghann’s Social sites to say “Hi!” and to thank her for this pattern!

I’m hoping I can find time to make this one for myself too!

PIN this pattern for later here


INSTAGRAM: @twistedarrowdesigns
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The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design

The Parker Cardigan Crochet Pattern

MATERIALS:

-Size J hook (6 mm)
-Light worsted weight yarn. I used “Joy DK” as it is a heavy dk.
-Tapestry needle
-Scissors
-Measuring tape

DIFFICULTY:

Advanced Beginner

YARDAGE:

Varies due to size. I used Approximately 1000 yards for an XL

ABBREVIATIONS:

Sl St = slip stitch
Ch = chain
SC = single crochet
ESC = extended single crochet
HDC= half double crochet

SPECIAL STITCH:

Extended Single Crochet = Put hook in the stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull yarn through 1 loop, yo and pull through both loops to finish stitch.

MEASUREMENTS

This Pattern is based off of measurements rather than on specific sizes so no need to guess what size you need and end up with an ill fitting garment. You will need to have these following measurements and write them down for reference later. Keep measuring tape handy for later on in the pattern.

  • CHEST: measure around the largest part of your bust. Add 4-6 inches depending on how loose you want your sweater and if you want it to meet in the middle.
  • BACK: from bottom of the neck to where you want the sweater to end.
  • ARM: from inside wrist to armpit (up to where your arm meets your torso).  Add 1 inch (if you want shorter sleeves, measure down to the place where you would like the sleeves to end).
  • WRIST: measure around your wrist and add 3 inches (for shorter sleeves, measure around your arm where you would like the sleeves to end).

MEASURING TIPS:

  • Be honest. There will be no tag in the back to advertise your size so don’t be afraid of the numbers. 🖤
  • It can be helpful to have someone help you measure but it isn’t a must.
  • Use any favorite sweater/shirt measurements as desired.
  • Don’t be intimidated. This will be easier than you think and is less time consuming than ripping out a bunch of rows if you are just guessing on size.
Diagram for The Parker Cardigan. Guest Post at Oombawka Design Crochet

PARKER CARDIGAN SWEATER BACK

*This and the front panels are worked from the bottom up.

Take your CHEST measurement (remembering your added inches) and divide that in half. That is as wide as you want your Sweater Back to be.

Row 1: Chain 8, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 6 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)

Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 7 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)

Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until you reach your width measurement, making sure to have an even number of rows. (You will need to have an even number of rows for your sweater bottom to match up well.)

*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC.

Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.

Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until your back panel reaches your BACK measurement. Knot off and cut yarn.

PARKER CARDIGAN SWEATER FRONT
(make 2)

To find the measurement for your front panels, fold your Sweater Back in half. With your panel folded, give it a light stretch. Starting at your middle fold at the top of your panel, measure over 4.5”and mark that stitch. Now lay your tape from the marked stitch over to the edge. That is as wide as you will need to make your front panels.

Row 1: Chain 8, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 6 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)

Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 7 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)

Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until you reach your needed measurement, making sure to have an even number of rows. (You will need to have an even number of rows for your sweater bottom to match up well.)

*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC

Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.

Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until your front panel reaches the same length as your sweater back. Knot off and cut yarn.

*TIP: Leave a long tail before cutting off to use for sewing the shoulders together later.

PARKER CARDIGAN SLEEVES

(make 2)

Take your WRIST measurement including the one extra inch. You will use that measurement for your sleeve cuff and then work the main sleeve from the bottom up.

Row 1: Chain 8, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 6 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)

Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 7 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)

Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until you reach your measurement making sure to have an even number of rows. (You will need to have an even number of rows for your sweater bottom to match up well.)

*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC. **Make sure that you end with an ODD number of stitches. You may need to add an extra stitch.

Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.

*Row 3: Ch 1, 2 ESC in first st, ESC in next stitch and across putting 2 ESC in last st. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, ESC in every stitch across. Turn.

Row 5: Repeat Row 4. Row 6: Repeat Row 4. Row 7: Repeat Row 4.

Repeat rows 3-7 until you reach your ARM measurement. It does not matter which row that you need to end at. Knot off and cut yarn.

PARKER CARDIGAN POCKET

(make 2)

Row 1: Chain 6, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 4 sts. Turn. (5 HDC)

Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 5 sts. Turn. (5 HDC)

Row 3-14: Repeat Row 2.

*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC.

Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.

Row 3-13: Repeat Row 2. Knot off and cut yarn.

DECORATIVE BUTTON STRAP

(make 2)

Row 1: Ch 13, SC in 2nd ch from hook and in remaining 11 ch. Turn. (12 SC)

Row 2: Ch 1, SC in every stitch. Turn. (12 SC) After row 3, knot off and cut yarn.

Row 3: Ch 1, SC in every stitch. Turn. (12 SC) Knot off and cut yarn.

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ASSEMBLING THE PARKER CARDIGAN

Assembling Step 1. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Lay your sweater back on a flat surface like a table with the right side facing you. To find the right side, look at the bottom edging. The side that has a full 2 HDC rows showing on each edge is the right side.
Assembly Step 2. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Now lay you sweater front panels on top with the right sides facing down and kissing the right side of the back.
Assembly Step 3. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
At the top shoulders, pin together from the outside in on both sides making sure that the number of stitches on the front match the number of stitches on the back. Whip stitch together. *Example: If your front panels are 24 stitches wide, you will be attaching to the 24 matching stitches on the back panel.
Assembly Step 4. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Take your sweater and lay it out flat again with the right side up. Fold sleeve in half and mark the middle. Lay the sleeve over the sweater body so that the right side the body and sleeve are facing together, pin the middle of the sleeve onto the shoulder seam. Being careful not to stretch your sleeve too much, pin on either side making sure that each side of the sleeve is pinned to an equal amount of stitches on the sweater. Whip stitch together. Knot off and cut yarn. Repeat with the other sleeve making sure to pin at the same row. *Example: If the left side is pinned to the 19th row of the front panel, make sure that the right side is pinned to the 19th row of the back panel.
Assembly Step 5. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Lay your sweater flat and inside out. Being careful to match up the stripes of the ESC, pin up the side and back down the inside of the sleeve. Whip stitch together. Knot off and cut yarn. Repeat on the other side.

INSIDE EDGING

Inside Edging 1. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Flip your sweater right side out. Attach your yarn in the bottom corner of what will be the right side when you are wearing it.
Inside Edging 2. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Ch 1, SC in the same stitch, work one SC in the side of each ESC row all the way up the side. When you reach the top, work 2 SC in the shoulder corner where you attached your front and back panels, SC in every stitch across the back, 2 SC in the corner stitch, Sc in the side of each ESC row all the way down the side.
Inside Edging 3. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Ch 8, HDC in the 2nd ch from hook and in the next 6
sts. (7 HDC) This will bring you to the inside of your
sweater again. Sl St in the next 3 sts, turn.
Inside Edging 4. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Making sure you are not working in any of your 3 Sl
St, HDC in the Back Loop Only (BLO) across, Ch 1,
turn. (7 HDC). HDC in BLO across. The last stitch can
be hard to find. Look behind and it will be back there.
It can be helpful to count as you go to make sure you
are not missing or adding stitches.

Depending on how many rows that you have, you may need to fudge the last couple of rows if you don’t have exactly enough to complete a sequence. On mine I ended up with 2 extra rows so I only made one Sl St and finished out to the edge before cutting off and any funny shape got fixed when I sewed in the ends.

ATTACHING POCKETS TO THE PARKER CARDIGAN

Attaching Pockets 1. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Along the top edge of your pocket, fold your strap in
half over the middle and pin down. Lay your button
on where you want it to be and sew it down making
sure to go through all layers to be sure everything is
well tacked down. Knot off and cut yarn.
Attaching Pockets 2. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Lay your finished pocket on the front panel where you
would like it to be.
Attaching Pockets 3. The Parker Cardigan by Meghann Chupp Guest Post for Oombawa Design
Pin your pocket down making sure that it stays even
with your rows. Whip stitch around both sides and
bottom. Knot off and cut yarn.
(If your button is heavy, you might like to get a large
sew on snap to attach to the inside.)

Congratulations!

You have completed your Parker Cardigan!

I would LOVE to see pictures of your finished projects. Use #theparkercardigan on Instagram. If you are a Ravelry user, consider making an official Ravelry project.

Thank you so much for using my pattern!

Meghann Chupp Twisted Arrow Designs
Twisted Arrow Designs Logo

FACEBOOK: @Twistedarrowcaligraphy | INSTAGRAM: twistedarrowdesigns
EMAIL: twistedarrowdesigns@gmail.com | RAVELRY: Twisted Arrow Designs


This pattern is a work of love and labor. Please do not copy the pattern to share it or alter slightly and claim it as your own.

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3 Comments

  1. Hi Annette, You can use the PrintFriendly button at the beginning of the post to create a PDF copy of the pattern. Meghann will be offering a Premium PDF copy too, from her shop I think. She hasn’t given me a link yet but I believe she is creating a professional copy to have available for sale in the near future. Thanks! Rhondda