I have a special treat for you today! Meghann Chupp from Twisted Arrow Designs has written a beautiful cardigan pattern for you to crochet! The Parker Cardigan Crochet Pattern is customizable to any size – that’s right – you can make this beautiful project no matter how big, or how small you are! So go get your yarn, a light worsted weight yarn will work perfectly and your crochet hook and let’s get started!
The yarn used in the pattern is Joy DK.
If you would like to have a sweater in the same weight yarn, here are some substitutes for Loops & Threads Joy DK if you do not have that specific brand of yarn available in your area:
Lion Brand Ice Cream Yarn, Patons (Astra), Premier Yarns DK Colors, Premier Yarns Luna, Deramores Studio DK, Elle Pure Gold DK, Caron CupCakes, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK
Be sure to pop by one of Meghann’s Social sites to say “Hi!” and to thank her for this pattern!
I’m hoping I can find time to make this one for myself too!
PIN this pattern for later here
INSTAGRAM: @twistedarrowdesigns
FACEBOOK: @twistedarrowcalligraphy
EMAIL: twistedarrowdesigns@gmail.com
RAVELRY: Twisted Arrow Designs
ETSY: twistedarrowcrochet
The Parker Cardigan Crochet Pattern
MATERIALS:
-Size J hook (6 mm)
-Light worsted weight yarn. I used “Joy DK” as it is a heavy dk.
-Tapestry needle
-Scissors
-Measuring tape
DIFFICULTY:
Advanced Beginner
YARDAGE:
Varies due to size. I used Approximately 1000 yards for an XL
ABBREVIATIONS:
Sl St = slip stitch
Ch = chain
SC = single crochet
ESC = extended single crochet
HDC= half double crochet
SPECIAL STITCH:
Extended Single Crochet = Put hook in the stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull yarn through 1 loop, yo and pull through both loops to finish stitch.
MEASUREMENTS
This Pattern is based off of measurements rather than on specific sizes so no need to guess what size you need and end up with an ill fitting garment. You will need to have these following measurements and write them down for reference later. Keep measuring tape handy for later on in the pattern.
- CHEST: measure around the largest part of your bust. Add 4-6 inches depending on how loose you want your sweater and if you want it to meet in the middle.
- BACK: from bottom of the neck to where you want the sweater to end.
- ARM: from inside wrist to armpit (up to where your arm meets your torso). Add 1 inch (if you want shorter sleeves, measure down to the place where you would like the sleeves to end).
- WRIST: measure around your wrist and add 3 inches (for shorter sleeves, measure around your arm where you would like the sleeves to end).
MEASURING TIPS:
- Be honest. There will be no tag in the back to advertise your size so don’t be afraid of the numbers. 🖤
- It can be helpful to have someone help you measure but it isn’t a must.
- Use any favorite sweater/shirt measurements as desired.
- Don’t be intimidated. This will be easier than you think and is less time consuming than ripping out a bunch of rows if you are just guessing on size.
SWEATER BACK
*This and the front panels are worked from the bottom up.
Take your CHEST measurement (remembering your added inches) and divide that in half. That is as wide as you want your Sweater Back to be.
Row 1: Chain 8, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 6 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)
Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 7 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)
Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until you reach your width measurement, making sure to have an even number of rows. (You will need to have an even number of rows for your sweater bottom to match up well.)
*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.
Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC.
Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.
Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until your back panel reaches your BACK measurement. Knot off and cut yarn.
SWEATER FRONT
(make 2)
To find the measurement for your front panels, fold your Sweater Back in half. With your panel folded, give it a light stretch. Starting at your middle fold at the top of your panel, measure over 4.5”and mark that stitch. Now lay your tape from the marked stitch over to the edge. That is as wide as you will need to make your front panels.
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Step 1.
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Step 2.
Row 1: Chain 8, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 6 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)
Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 7 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)
Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until you reach your needed measurement, making sure to have an even number of rows. (You will need to have an even number of rows for your sweater bottom to match up well.)
*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.
Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC
Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.
Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until your front panel reaches the same length as your sweater back. Knot off and cut yarn.
*TIP: Leave a long tail before cutting off to use for sewing the shoulders together later.
SLEEVES
(make 2)
Take your WRIST measurement including the one extra inch. You will use that measurement for your sleeve cuff and then work the main sleeve from the bottom up.
Row 1: Chain 8, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 6 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)
Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 7 sts. Turn. (7 HDC)
Row 3-?: Repeat row 2 until you reach your measurement making sure to have an even number of rows. (You will need to have an even number of rows for your sweater bottom to match up well.)
*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.
Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC. **Make sure that you end with an ODD number of stitches. You may need to add an extra stitch.
Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.
*Row 3: Ch 1, 2 ESC in first st, ESC in next stitch and across putting 2 ESC in last st. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, ESC in every stitch across. Turn.
Row 5: Repeat Row 4. Row 6: Repeat Row 4. Row 7: Repeat Row 4.
Repeat rows 3-7 until you reach your ARM measurement. It does not matter which row that you need to end at. Knot off and cut yarn.
(make 2)
Row 1: Chain 6, HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC in next 4 sts. Turn. (5 HDC)
Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in back loop only (BLO) in all 5 sts. Turn. (5 HDC)
Row 3-14: Repeat Row 2.
*We will start the numbering again at 1. The first row of this section will be worked along the long edge of the previous rows.
Row 1: Ch 1, For every section of 2 HDC you will work 3 SC.
Row 2: Ch 1, ESC in first st and in every st across. Turn.
Row 3-13: Repeat Row 2. Knot off and cut yarn.
DECORATIVE BUTTON STRAP
(make 2)
Row 1: Ch 13, SC in 2nd ch from hook and in remaining 11 ch. Turn. (12 SC)
Row 2: Ch 1, SC in every stitch. Turn. (12 SC) After row 3, knot off and cut yarn.
Row 3: Ch 1, SC in every stitch. Turn. (12 SC) Knot off and cut yarn.
ASSEMBLING CARDIGAN
INSIDE EDGING
Ch 1, SC in the same stitch, work one SC in the side of each ESC row all the way up the side. When you reach the top, work 2 SC in the shoulder corner where you attached your front and back panels, SC in every stitch across the back, 2 SC in the corner stitch, Sc in the side of each ESC row all the way down the side.
sts. (7 HDC) This will bring you to the inside of your
sweater again. Sl St in the next 3 sts, turn.
St, HDC in the Back Loop Only (BLO) across, Ch 1,
turn. (7 HDC). HDC in BLO across. The last stitch can
be hard to find. Look behind and it will be back there.
It can be helpful to count as you go to make sure you
are not missing or adding stitches.
Depending on how many rows that you have, you may need to fudge the last couple of rows if you don’t have exactly enough to complete a sequence. On mine I ended up with 2 extra rows so I only made one Sl St and finished out to the edge before cutting off and any funny shape got fixed when I sewed in the ends.
ATTACHING POCKETS
half over the middle and pin down. Lay your button
on where you want it to be and sew it down making
sure to go through all layers to be sure everything is
well tacked down. Knot off and cut yarn.
would like it to be.
with your rows. Whip stitch around both sides and
bottom. Knot off and cut yarn.
(If your button is heavy, you might like to get a large
sew on snap to attach to the inside.)
Congratulations!
You have completed your sweater!
I would LOVE to see pictures of your finished projects. Use #theparkercardigan on Instagram. If you are a Ravelry user, consider making an official Ravelry project.
Thank you so much for using my pattern!
FACEBOOK: @Twistedarrowcaligraphy | INSTAGRAM: twistedarrowdesigns
EMAIL: twistedarrowdesigns@gmail.com | RAVELRY: Twisted Arrow Designs
This pattern is a work of love and labor. Please do not copy the pattern to share it or alter slightly and claim it as your own.
Please be kind and link to my Instagram or Ravelry store if posting online.
Rhondda says
Hi Annette, You can use the PrintFriendly button at the beginning of the post to create a PDF copy of the pattern. Meghann will be offering a Premium PDF copy too, from her shop I think. She hasn’t given me a link yet but I believe she is creating a professional copy to have available for sale in the near future. Thanks! Rhondda
Annette L. Specht says
Love it! how do you download it?