Free Baby Seal Crochet Pattern. #CALCENTRAL Softie CAL
Welcome! Today I am releasing a brand new baby seal crochet pattern. This free pattern requires Super Fine Weight Yarn and a 2.25 mm (B)hook. If you would like to make a larger version of the crochet seal, you can use any medium weight yarn with a 3.5 mm (E) hook. You can see the larger seal in the photo with my son below.
This pattern was designed as part of the second-annual Softie Crochet Along with CAL Central! You can learn more about this fantastic CAL, join the great group of Crocheters at CAL Central and find out how you can enter for a chance to win great prizes by participating in this CAL, right >HERE<
[disclaimer] I received the Crafter’s Choice Dry Polyester Fiber Fill from Fairfield World. I received the yarn I used to make this project from Red Heart Yarn. This post includes affiliate links. If you make a purchase after you click on one of my affiliate links in the post, I will receive a small commission for referring you, at no additional cost to you. [/disclaimer]
I really liked using the Crafter’s Choice Dry Polyester Fiber Fill with this project. As you can see in the images in my post, the fiber fill is not popping out from between my stitches and I haven’t accidentally crocheted into it as I’ve been working. It leaves my project with a lovely finish on the outside and my stuffie seems to be retaining its shape very well even after all the hugs it is getting from my kids. I’d like to thank Fairfield World for sending me the sample to use with this year’s CAL design. I would definitely recommend the Crafter’s Choice Dry Polyster Fiber Fill for amigurumi projects. If you want to see the texture difference between the regular Fiber Fill and the Crafter’s Choice Dry Polyester Fiber Fill, please visit Marie’s post here: Zebra Pocket Pillow. She has included a great photo of the two types of fill, side-by-side.
Free Baby Seal Crochet Pattern
Supplies
-
- Yarn: Red Heart Amigurumi.3.5 oz (100 g) and 239 yds (219 m). 100% Acrylic. Super Fine Weight Yarn [1]. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, tumble dry.
- Colors: 1 skein in Narwhal E885
- Hook: 2.25 mm (B). I used this hook.
- Finished Project Yardage:
- Crafter’s Choice Dry Polyester Fiber Fill, Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker, two black 12-mm safety eyes
Difficulty Level
Easy
Finished Size
Seal length approximately 9 inches X 9 inches width with flippers outstretched
Gauge
Approximately 4 rounds per inch and 5 sts per inch
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
beg – beginning
ch – chain
DMR – double magic ring
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together
R – round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
() – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space
Special Techniques
Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog) – I work this under the front loops of the stitch only.
Helpful Tutorials
Helpful Video Tutorials
Notes:
- Initial ch 1 is not counted as a stitch.
- Slip Stitch is not counted as a stitch unless specified.
- Weave in ends as you go.
- For assembly and finishing instructions, proceed to the finishing section at the end of the post.
- I start rounds where I join with a new color, with a standing st. If you prefer to begin with a sl st join and a turning ch, feel free to substitute. New color rounds are started in the same spot as the previous rounds started.
- hdc2tog – I work under the front loops only to make a neater and less noticeable decrease stitch – see special techniques above for images if you want to try this technique
- Color A: White, Color B: Turquoise, Color C: Teal, Color D: Light Grey. All 4 colors are available in one cake of the Amigurumi Yarn. I hand rolled each color in the cake into a separate ball and worked them in whichever order I wanted.
Baby Seal Pattern Instructions
The baby seal is crocheted from the tip of his nose to his tail. You will be sewing the two side flippers into position and the face muzzle after you complete the body of the seal. You may change yarn colors as you wish, or use a solid color for your seal. The pattern is written following my color changes for Baby Seal.
Using your 2.25 mm (B) hook (or size required for gauge):
R1: With Color A in a DMR: Ch 1 and work 8 hdc. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [8]
R2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [16]
R3: Ch 1. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [24]
R4: Ch 1. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [32]
R5: Ch 1. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [40]
R6: Ch 1. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [48]
R7: Ch 1. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [56]
R8: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. Finish off. [56]
R9: Join Color B in the next st. 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [56]
R10-R13: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [56]
R14: Ch 1. *1 hdc in each of the next 26 sts, hdc2tog**. Rep from * to ** 2 times. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [54]
R15-R16: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. Finish off. [54]
R17: Join Color C in the next st. Hdc2tog. *1 hdc in each of the next 24 sts, hdc2tog**. Rep from * to ** 2 times. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [51]
R18: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [51]
R19: Ch 1, 1 hdc in the next st, hdc2tog. *1 hdc in each of the next 22 sts, hdc2tog**. Rep from * to ** 2 times. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [48]
R20: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [48]
At this point I recommend adding the safety eyes to the seals face and stuffing the head and upper body of the seal with Fiber Fil.
R21: Ch 1. *1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc2tog**. Rep from * to ** 8 times. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [40]
R22: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [40]
R23: Ch 1. *1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc2tog**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [30]
R24-R25: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [30]
R26: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each of the next 15 sts, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [28]
R27: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. Finish off. [28]
At this point I recommend adding some additional stuffing to the seals body.
R28: Join Color D in the next st. 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [28]
R29: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each of the next 19 sts. Place a marker in the 6th stitch worked. Leave rem stitches unworked. Sl st to the 6th hdc worked to join. This sl st will count as 1 stitch. [15]
R30: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [15]
R31: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [17]
R32: Ch 1, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [17]
R33: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [17]
R34: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 11 sts, hdc2tog. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [14]
R35: Ch 1, (hdc2tog) 7 times. Finish off leaving a 5-inch tail of yarn to weave the end closed.
At this point I recommend adding stuffing into the first part of the tail.
We will now be adding the second part of the tail to the unworked stitches from R29. Join yarn in the next unworked stitch following the first part of the tail.
Tail Part 2
R1: Join Color D in the next unworked st. 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [15]
R2: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [15]
R3: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the last 5 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [17]
R4: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [17]
R5: Ch 1, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 9 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [17]
R6: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [17]
At this point I recommend adding as much stuffing as you think you need to the seals body and tail sections. You will not be able to add much after we decrease over the next 2 rounds.
R7: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 11 sts, hdc2tog. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [14]
R8: Ch 1, (hdc2tog) 7 times. Finish off leaving a 5-inch tail of yarn to weave the end closed.
Muzzle
R1: With Color A in a DMR: Ch 1 and work 8 hdc. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [8]
R2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [16]
R3: Ch 1. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [24]
R4: Ch 1. *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. Finish off leaving a 11-inch tail of yarn for attaching the muzzle to the seal’s face. See finishing instructions at the end of this post. [32]
Flippers (make 2)
R1: With Color B in a DMR: Ch 1 and work 6 hdc. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [6]
R2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [12]
R3: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [12]
R4: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [13]
R5: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [14]
R6-R7: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [14]
R8: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [12]
R9: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [12]
R10: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the rem 8 sts. Sl st to the first hdc to join. Finish off leaving a 6-inch tail of yarn for assembly. [10]
Finishing
Tail: Using this closing technique, close the tips of the tail and weave in your ends.
Flippers: Using the image below, attach the 2 flippers on opposite sides of the seal’s body.
Muzzle: Using the image below, attach the muzzle to the seals face. Stuff the muzzle slightly to give it shape after you have whip stitched about ¾ of it in place.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Nose and Mouth: Using black embroidery thread, or black super fine weight yarn, hand stitch a nose and mouth on the seal. Please see the above image as an example.
#fairfieldworld @fairfieldworld #CALCentral #redheartyarns #joycreators #freepattern
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You are very welcome!!
thank you so much for the seal- my kids love them- and a really sea- hype is on 🙂 happy crocheting
sara