Fortitude Crochet Angel Pattern

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My Fortitude Angel is a beautiful, handmade crochet angel designed using Medium Worsted Weight Yarn and a 4 mm crochet hook. This elegant crochet Angel can stand on her own without any need for stuffing or stiffening, making it a lovely keepsake or heartfelt gift.

Fortitude takes very little yarn and less than 1 hour to crochet.

Find this free pattern in my post below, or if you prefer there is an ad-free premium PDF available in my shop.

This is just one of the more than 20 patterns available in the Oombawka Crochet Angel Collection. See the other crochet Angels here.

Elegant Crochet Angel Pattern – Fortitude

Supplies

• Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver – (7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m), 100% acrylic. Medium [4] Weight. Color: White.
• Hook: 4.0 mm (G) was used for the entire project EXCEPT the halo
• Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (is recommended – you can use a safety pin /paper clip / hoop earring)
• Poly-Fil
• HALO: Bowdabra Bow Wire – Color Gold and 2.25 mm (B) crochet hook

Difficulty Level

• EASY-INTERMEDIATE

Finished Size

• 6 inches tall (not including the halo), 4.25 inches wide when on a flat surface (skirt is flattened)

Gauge

Not imperative but if your stitches have spaces between them that you can see through you need to go down a hook size (or two) until you are crocheting a more solid fabric.

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

• 3-dc bobble – 3 double crochet bobble (see special stitches)
• beg – beginning
• bl – back loop
• BPsc – back post single crochet
• ch – chain
• ch2sp – chain 2 space
• dc – double crochet
• DMR – double magic ring
• dtr – double treble
• fl – front loop
• FPsc – Front Post single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• R – round
• rem – remaining
• rep – repeat
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
• sk – skip
• sl st – slip stitch
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• tr – treble
• * to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain multiple instructions.
• [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
• () – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space

Special Stitches

3-dc bobble stitch

*Yarn over, insert hook into the specified stitch, yarn over and pull up 1 loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops**. Rep from * to ** 3 times. Yarn over and pull through the rem 4 loops to complete the stitch.

Helpful Tutorials

• Online Crochet Stitch Dictionary

I demonstrated how to make one of my other Crochet Angel Patterns (Patience) in a full length YouTube Video Pattern Tutorial. You can view the video tutorial for the arms, and halo here:

Arms:  https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1335

Halo: https://youtu.be/3qe5hM-y2qQ?t=1913

Notes

• This project is worked in continuous rounds. You will need to use a stitch marker so you do not lose your place.
• Do not slip stitch to join at the end of rounds unless specified.
• When you work the sc2tog decreases work under the front loop only (it makes the stitch less thick).
• Ch 3 at the beginning of a round counts as 1 dc.
• Do not work into slip stitches unless specified.
• Add Fortitude Angel to your Ravelry Library here

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Library

PIN this pattern for later here

Fortitude Crochet Angel Pattern

You are beginning at the top of the Angel’s head and working in continuous rounds to the base of the dress, all in one piece.

Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: Work 6 sc in a DMR. [6 sc]

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. [12 sc]

R3: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18 sc]

R4-R6: 1 sc in each st around. [18 sc]

R7: *Sc2tog over the next 2 sts, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [12 sc]

I recommend you firmly stuff the head at this point.

R8: Sc2tog around. [6 sc]

R9: 1 FPsc in each st around. [6 FPsc]

R10: 1 sc and 1 FPsc in each st around. [6 sc, 6 FPsc]

R11: 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [14 sc]

R12: 1 sc in the first st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [10 sc, 2 ch3sp]

R13: 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 3 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in the bl of each of the next 3 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts [16 sc]

R14-R16: 1 sc in each st around. [16 sc]

R17: *1 sc, ch 2, sk 1 st**. Rep from * to ** around.  [8 sc, 8 ch2sp]

R18: *1 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the bl of the next ch, 1 dc in the skipped sc from R16, 1 sc in the bl of the next ch**. Rep from * to ** around.  [24 sc, 8 dc]

R19: 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 1, sk the next dc. *1 sc in each 3 sts, ch 1, sk the next dc**. Rep from * to ** around to the last st. 1 sc in the last st.  [24 sc, 8 ch1sp]

R20: *1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sk the next ch1sp, 1 FPdc in the skipped dc from R18. 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around to the last st. 1 sc in the last st. [24 sc, 8 dc]

R21: 1 sc in each st around. [32 sc]

R22: *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 3-dc bobble in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [8 bobbles, 24 sc]

R23-R24: 1 sc in each st around. [32 sc]

R25: 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st. *1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st**. Rep from * to ** around to the last st. 1 sc in the last st. [24 sc, 8 ch1sp]

R26: 1 BPsc in each of the next 2 sts. Working in front of the ch1sp, 1 dc in the FL of the sk sc from R24, sk the ch1sp. *1 BPsc in each of the next 3 sc; working in front of the ch1sp, 1 dc in the FL of the sk sc from R24, sk the ch1sp**. Rep from * to ** around to the last st. 1 BPsc in the last st. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in your ends.

Arms

Make 1.

The arm is created in one piece; worked flat and then seamed on the long edges with a slip stitch seam. Once the arm is complete you thread it through the openings on either side of the angel’s body, being sure to keep an equal amount of “arm” on each side. You can whipstitch these in place if you wish – I did not. I simply used 2 small stitches to attach the hands together in a “prayer” pose.

R1: Ch 21, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each across, ch 1, turn [20]

R2: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn [20]

R3: Rep R2, ch 1, turn [20]

Fold the rectangle in half (along row 2) and seam the long edges using a slip stitch seam. Finish off and weave in any remaining ends.

Wings

Make 2.

R1: Work ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in a DMR. Turn. [5 dc, ch2sp]

R2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr) and 2 tr in the first st, 2 dc in the next st, 3 hdc in the ch2sp, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sl st in each of the next 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. [3 tr, 2 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sl st]

R3: Sk the first sl st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 tr in the next st and 1 dtr in the next st, (the ch 4 at the beg of R2). Ch 1, turn. [1 dtr, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 5 sc]

R4: 1 sl st in each st and around the row edge back to the DMR. Finish off. [15 sl st]

To attach the wings use a whip stitch and here is an image for placement:

Halo

The halo is the only part of this project to use a different hook and thread. Please use the 2.25 mm (B) hook and the Gold Bowdabra Bow Wire. This is a thin piece of wire wrapped in gold metallic thread. I found mine at Michael’s in the ribbon section. It can stand on it’s own which is why I like it – and it is much thinner than pipe-cleaner (which was what I had been considering).

I crocheted the halo like this:

Ch 20, finish off leaving a tail of the bow wire. Now take the tail and thread it through the 7th chain from the opposite end. This will create the halo loop. Now twist (like a twist-tie) the two remaining ends together to make it straight and stiff. Take that one end (since you twisted them together you have one wire now) and thread it through the back of the angel’s head and down to the base of the neck before cutting off any of the excess wire. If you want to dab a bit of fabric glue in there to keep it in place you can.

The image below is for my Crochet Angels Pattern but the Halo design is the same:

Finishing Instructions

• Weave in any remaining ends securely.
• Insert the arm through the holes on each side of the dress.
• Insert the halo through the back stitches of the head.
• Decorate with glitter, bells or sequins or place a tea light under her skirt (or a bell) and add a hanging tie to make her an ornament.

Options

• Easily stitch the hands together to make your angel ‘pray’ or give her something to hold in her hands.
• Add hair to her head if you’d like!
• Stitch a bell under her skirt, or add a ribbon to her back (above her wings) to make her an ornament for your tree.
• Add a handmade paper (or plastic) cone under her skirt to help her stay in shape on the top of your Christmas Tree.

Did you remember to make your Ravelry Project Page? (How to Make a Ravelry Project Page.)

Add your finished Fortitude Angel project page to Ravelry here.

The Fortitude Angel is a simple yet elegant project that can be cherished for years to come. Whether you’re creating a meaningful gift or adding to your crochet collection, this pattern is a great choice. Don’t forget to check out the full Oombawka Angel Collection for more beautiful angel patterns!

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