Fitted Crochet Neck Warmer | Free Pattern

This is a very simple design – you can easily modify it and work it completely in double crochet stitches if you would prefer to have a solid neckwarmer. I have included these instructions at the very end of the post!

For those cool days when you do not want, or need a bulky scarf, or cowl this will be a great option. The size I have included full instructions for below will also work as a wide headband – it stretches to 22 inches which is the approximate head-size of the average adult woman.

Difficulty

EASY

Supplies

Yarn: Red Heart Midnight (Medium Weight Yarn) Color: Moonlight
Hook: 6.0 mm (J)

Gauge:

15 sts is approximately 3.75 inches wide
6 rows is approximately 4 inches long

Finished Size

3.75 inches wide before adding the 2 edging rounds
4.5 inches wide after adding the 2 edging rounds

26 rows approximately 17″ long (stretches to approximately 22 inches)
32 rows approximately 21″ long (stretches to approximately 27 inches)
36 rows approximately 24″ long (stretches to approximately 31 inches)

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

beg – beginning
bl – back loop
ch – chain
ch1sp – chain 1 space
dc – double crochet
R – row/round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Helpful Tutorials

Standing Double Crochet

Pattern Instructions

R1: Ch 17; beg in the 4th ch from the hook (the skipped 3 chs count as 1 dc) and work 1 dc in each of the next 2 chs. *Ch 1, sk 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 chs**. Rep from * to ** 2 more times. Turn. [12 dc, 3 ch1sp]

R2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1sp), sk the dc at the base of the ch 4 and the next 2 dc. Work 3 dc in the next ch1sp, ch 1, sk 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch1sp. Ch 1, sk 2 dc, work 1 dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. [11 dc, 4 ch1sp]

R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the ch1sp, *Ch 1, sk 3 dc, 3 dc in the ch1sp.** Rep from * to ** 2 more times. Turn. [12 dc, 3 ch1sp]

Alternate R2 and R3 until you have completed 26 rows in total.

This will give you a neck warmer with a finished circumference of approximately 17 inches. It will stretch to approximately 22 inches if you are using the same yarn as I used – Red Heart Boutique Midnight.

If you would like your neck warmer to be longer here are 2 other size options.

32 rows approximately 21″ long (stretches to approximately 27 inches)
37 rows approximately 24″ long (stretches to approximately 31 inches)

Now join the ends from the beginning R1 and your final R26 (R32 or R37 if you used a longer option). I turned my project right sides facing inward and worked a joining row of slip stitches. You can alternately whipstitch those ends together if you prefer. Finish off and weave in ends. Turn your project right-side facing outward before continuing.

Option: If you prefer to keep this completely adjustable you can choose to use a button closure instead of seaming the edge. I recommend moving up to at least 32 rows to accommodate for the buttons and the slight overlap you will need to close the piece.

Edging

I edged the bottom edge only to widen the neck warmer to sit comfortably on the base of the neck and shoulders.

NOTE: JOINING STITCH: Join your yarn with a standing double crochet in any space created by a ch 3 edge (basically if there is one dc, or a ch 3 alone on the edge join around it as though it were a ch1sp) I made them in pink font above so you know which ones I mean! If you don’t want to do a standing double crochet; slip stitch join and ch 2.

R1: JOINING STITCH (see above note), work 3 additional dc stitches into this same space. Ch 1. *Sk the side edge of the next row (it will have block of 3 dc together there). Work 4 dc in the next space created by the ch 3 edge.  ** Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the first joining double crochet. Work 1 sl st in each of the next 3 dc and once into the ch1sp.

R2: Ch 3 and work 3 additional dc stitches into this same space. *Ch 1.  Sk the next 4 dc.  Work 4 dc in the next ch1sp.**. Rep from * to ** around. Ch 1. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join and finish off.

Note: to add more length continue to repeat R2 but instead of working it with 4 dc in each ch1sp work R3 with 5 dc in the ch1sp. This will add more width to the piece to accommodate the collar bone and allow it to sit more comfortably. Then work R4 with 5 dc again. R6 with 6 dc sets. R7 with 6 dc sets…

Solid Double Crochet Option

Yarn: Red Heart Soft
Hook: 6 mm (J)

R1: Ch 18; beg in the 4th ch from the hook (the skipped 3 chs count as 1 dc) and work 1 dc in the bl of each st across. Turn. [15]

R2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), work 1 dc in the bl of each st across. Turn. [15]

R3-R26: Rep R2

If you would like your neck warmer to be longer here are 2 other size options.

32 rows approximately 21″ long (stretches to approximately 27 inches)
36 rows approximately 24″ long (stretches to approximately 31 inches)

Now join the ends from the beginning R1 and your final R26 (R32 or R37 if you used a longer option). I turned my project right sides facing inward and worked a joining row of slip stitches. You can alternately whipstitch those ends together if you prefer. Finish off and weave in ends. Turn your project right-side facing outward before continuing.

Option: If you prefer to keep this completely adjustable you can choose to use a button closure instead of seaming the edge. I recommend moving up to at least 32 rows to accommodate for the buttons and the slight overlap you will need to close the piece.

Edging

NOTE: JOINING STITCH: Join your yarn with a standing double crochet  in the space beside any of the dc stitches on the edge of the project. Essentially you will be working into the space between the side dc and the next dc in.

R1: JOINING STITCH (see above note), work 3 additional dc stitches into this same space. Ch 1. *Sk the side edge of dc in the next row. Work 4 dc in the space beside the dc at the edge of the next row**.  ** Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the first joining double crochet. Work 1 sl st in each of the next 3 dc and once into the ch1sp.

R2: Ch 3 and work 3 additional dc stitches into this same space. *Ch 1.  Sk the next 4 dc.  Work 4 dc in the next ch1sp.**. Rep from * to ** around. Ch 1. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join and finish off.

Note: to add more length continue to repeat R2 but instead of working it with 4 dc in each ch1sp work R3 with 5 dc in the ch1sp. This will add more width to the piece to accommodate the collar bone and allow it to sit more comfortably. Then work R4 with 5 dc again. R6 with 6 dc sets. R7 with 6 dc sets…