I have been planning on making one of these for a very long time! My Mother-In-Law has a store-bought grocery bag holder in her pantry and it is fantastic for keeping those plastic bags hidden away until you have need of one!

Our plastic bags are in other plastic bags and hanging on the back of a chair in the kitchen – this has been driving me a bit crazy – so here is my easy solution – and since my grocery bag holder will be hanging in plain-site (we do not have a pantry) I wanted it to be a little bit more fun than a regular double crochet bag holder.

Crochet Grocery Bag Holder

Free Pattern

Yarn: Red Heart Supersaver (Worsted Weight)
Hook: 5.0 mm (H)

Finished Measurements:

Long: ~ 23″
Wide: ~ 12.5″ (flattened in half)

Abbreviations: R – row, ch – chain, beg – begin, sl st – slip stitch, sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, hdc – half double crochet, tr – triple crochet, sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together over 2 stitches, sc3tog – single crochet 3 stitches together over three stitches, sk – skip, tr3tog – triple crochet 3 stitches together over 3 stitches, tr2tog – triple crochet 2 stitches together over 2 stitches, (# at end of row) – this is the stitch count total for the row

Note: This pattern begins at the bottom ribbed cuff. The bag is worked flat in one piece and then folded in half and whip stitched up the side seam to form the tube. Then you attach the hanging handle on the inside of the bag.

Helpful Tutorials:

sc2tog & sc3tog
tr2tog & tr3tog

Wave and Chevron Stitch Photo Tutorial

Whip Stitch Seams

Pattern:

Note: I carried my black yarn up the side of the piece loosely. If you carry it too tightly it will cause your fabric to buckle. If you prefer you can cut the yarn end at the end of each colour leaving a 6″ tail for weaving in later.

I only cut the white yarn at the end of the rows when changing colours. Leave at least a 6″ tail to allow you to weave in your yarn ends at the end of the pattern.

R1: Leave a 10″ tail of yarn to allow you to close the cuff edge when you are finished. Ch 8, beg in the 2nd ch from the hook work 1 sl st in each st across, ch 1, turn (7)
R2: work 1 sc in the back loop of each st across, ch 1, turn (7)
R3-25: repeat R2

Turn your work to allow you to continue to crochet along the row ends of R25 (along one edge of the cuff)

R26: work 25 sc evenly across the row ends, ch 1, turn (25)
R27: 1 sc in the 1st st, *1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st* repeat from * to * 4 times
change colour to white on the last yarn over, ch 1, turn (33)
R28: sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, *3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc3tog over the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts*, repeat from * to * 3 times, work 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn (33)
R29: repeat R28, (*change colour on the last yarn over), ch 4, turn, (33)
R30: sk the 1st st, work 1 tr in the next st, *1 dc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, work a tr3tog over the next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 dc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, tr2tog over the next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (25)
R31: (1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times, 1 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn, (31)
R32: (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st) 6 times, 1 sc in the last st, ch 1, turn (37)
*R33: 1 sc in the 1st st, *1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, 3 tr in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st* repeat from * to * 6 times
change colour to white on the last yarn over, ch 1, turn (49)

R34: sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, *3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc3tog over the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts*, repeat from * to * 6 times, work 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn (49)

R35: repeat R34 (*change colour on the last yarn over), ch 4, turn, (49)

R36: sk the 1st st, work 1 tr in the next st, *1 dc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, work a tr3tog over the next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * 3 times, 1 dc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 1 dc in the next st, tr2tog over the next 2 sts, ch 1, turn (37)

R37: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn (37)

*R38: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn (37)

Repeat R33-R38; 6 more times

Leave a very long tail to allow you to whip stitch the 2 side edges together to form a tube.

Assembly:

Step 1: Place the bag down on a flat surface. This is showing you the right side facing up.

This is the wrong side facing up (so you can see the difference).

Step 2: Fold your project in half with the right sides facing in (wrong sides will face out as shown below). Then whip stitch up the side seam using the black yarn (or whatever colour you chose to use in place of the black yarn). Finish off and weave in ends. Turn right side out. Then proceed to the pattern for the strap below to make the strap.

Strap:

Length: 23″

Leave a long tail to allow you to sew the strap end to the bag when you are finished.

R1: Chain 3, beg in 2nd ch from hook and work 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn (2)

R2: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn (2)

R3-R36: repeat R2 (2)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing the strap to the bag. You will hand stitch it to the inside of the bag on opposite sides with the seam of the bag running directly down the middle of the bag.