Cozy Pocket Shawl Pattern

I designed my Cozy Pocket Shawl Pattern last fall for a special online-only event. I thought you might like to make your own Pocket Shawl too, so today I am sharing the full written pattern below for free.

This pattern has been fully tested and an ad-free PDF version (with stitch diagram) is available for purchase in my Ravelry Shop (if you prefer).

PIN it for later

Supplies

• Yarn: Red Heart Hygge Charm. 7 oz (198 g) and 432 yds (395 m). 97% Acrylic, 3% Other Fibers. Medium Weight Yarn [4]. Machine washable and dryable.
• Colors: 1 skein in Moonlight and 1 skein in Fireball
• Hook: 6.5 mm (K) Furls Streamline Swirl.
• Finished Project Yardage: Shawl: 13.8 oz (388 g) / 847 yds (775 m)
• Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker

Save *15% at Furls with coupon code: ODC15
*this code cannot be combined with other discounts*

Difficulty Level

Easy

Finished Size

Shawl width approximately 19 inches X 62 inches length (not including fringe)

Shawl width before edging is added is approximately 17 inches.  Edging adds approximately 1-inch to each side.

Gauge

Approximately 2 rows per inch and 2.6 stitches per inch.

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

Our Crochet Translation Project offers translations in many languages.
Check out the Basic Crochet Terms in 10 languages here.

BPhdc – back post half double crochet

ch/chs – chain/chains

FPhdc – front post half double crochet

hhdc – herringbone half double crochet

R – row

rem – remaining

rep – repeat

RS – right side

Rnd – round

sc – single crochet

sk – skip

sl st – slip stitch

st/sts – stitch/stitches

[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

() – important notes

Special Stitches

Herringbone Half Double Crochet (hhdc)

Yarn over the hook. Insert hook into the specified stitch, yarn over and pull up 1 loop and pull that loop through the first loop on your hook. You have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops on your hook to complete the stitch.

Helpful Tutorials

Stitch Anatomy

Invisible Join (video tutorial: technique)

Quick Stitch Guide 

Slip Knot and Starting Chain

How to Join a New Ball of Yarn

Notes:

• Stitch multiple: 1 (Understanding Stitch Multiples)
• The initial ch-2 counts as the first hhdc of the row. This means we sk the stitch beneath it, since we already worked into it as the ch-2.
• When I work into the foundation chain, I prefer working into the back bar (back bump) of the chain. You can work under the back loop only if you prefer.

• Color A: Moonlight; Color B: Fireball
• Make your project page on Ravelry here. (How to make a project page on Ravelry)

The Cozy Pocket Shawl Pattern Instructions

The shawl is crocheted back-and-forth in rows, in one piece; the pockets are crocheted separately and then attached by hand. 

Using your 6.5 mm (K) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: (RS) With Color A: Ch 45, sk the first 2 chs (counts as 1 hhdc). 1 hhdc in each rem ch across. Turn. [44 hhdc]

R2-R57: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hhdc). 1 hhdc in each rem st across. Turn.  [44 hhdc]

R58: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hhdc). 1 hhdc in each rem st across, changing to Color B on the last yarn over of the last st of the row. Turn.  [44 hhdc]

R59-R116: With Color B: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hhdc). 1 hhdc in each rem st across. Turn. [44 hhdc]

R117: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 sc in each st across. Finish off and weave in ends.  [44 sc]

R118: With RS facing, rejoin your Color A yarn in the chain at the base of the last hhdc worked in R1. Work 1 sc in each ch across. Finish off and weave in ends. [44 sc]

Shawl Edging

Rnd 1: (RS) With Color A: Rejoin your yarn in the first row end (R1) following the last sc worked on R118. 1 sc in each row end to color change, changing to Color B on the last yarn over of the sc worked into R58 row end. With Color B: 1 sc in each row end to the corner, (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sl st) in the corner. Rotate your work to continue working across R117; 1 sl st in each st across, (1 sl st, ch 1, 1 sc) in the corner. Rotate your work to continue working across the side edge, working 1 sc in each row end to color change, changing to Color A on the last yarn over of the sc worked into R59 row end. With Color A: 1 sc in each row end to the corner, (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sl st) in the corner. Rotate your work to continue across sc made in R118, 1 sl st in each st across, (1 sl st, ch 1, 1 sc) in the corner, sl st in first sc to join. Finish off and weave in ends.

Shawl Side Edgings

R1: (RS) With Color A: Rejoin your yarn in the first sc worked in Rnd 1. *1 FPhdc around the next st, 1 BPhdc around the next st**. Rep from * to ** across, remembering to switch to Color B on the st before the first sc worked in Color B. Finish off and weave in ends.

Rotate your project to rejoin your yarn in the first sc following the corner ch 1.

With Color B:  *1 FPhdc around the next st, 1 BPhdc around the next st**. Rep from * to ** across, remembering to switch to Color A on the st before the first sc worked in Color A. Finish off and weave in ends.

Pockets

Make 2

Each pocket measures approximately 10 inches X 10 inches (25.5 cm X 25.5 cm). Make one pocket with Color A and one pocket with Color B.

R1: (RS): Ch 25, sk the first 2 chs (counts as 1 hhdc). 1 hhdc in each rem ch across. Turn. [24 hhdc]

R2-R20: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hhdc). 1 hhdc in each st across. Turn.  [24 hhdc]

Pocket Edging

The pocket edging begins by working across R20.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), *1 FPhdc around the next st, 1 BPhdc around the next st**. Rep from * to ** across to the last st, 1 hdc in last st, ch 1, rotate to continue working along the side edge. Work 1 sc in each row edge across to the corner, ch 1, rotate to work across the base of R1, 1 sc in each ch across to the corner, ch 1, rotate to continue working across the side edge. Work 1 sc in each row end across to the corner, ch 1 and sl st to the top of the initial ch-2 to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), *1 FPhdc around the next st, 1 BPhdc around the next st**. Rep from * to ** across to the last st, 1 hdc in last st, ch 2, rotate to continue working along the side edge. Rep from * to ** across to the corner, ch 1, rotate to work across the base of Rnd 1, 1 hdc in the first st. Rep from * to ** across to the last st, 1 hdc in the last st, ch 1, rotate to continue working along the side edge. Rep from * to ** across to the corner, ch 1 and sl st to the top of the initial ch-2 to join. Finish off and weave in ends.

Finishing

Place the Color A pocket on the RS of the Color A shawl edge. Line the pocket up with the bottom edge of the shawl (short edge) and using Color A yarn, whipstitch the pocket to the shawl 5 inches in from each side edge of the shawl. Finish off and weave in ends. Repeat for the Color B pocket using Color B yarn.

Tassel fringe (optional)

You will be attaching one tassel fringe in every other stitch along the short edge of the shawl, using the same color of yarn as the shawl edge itself.  

Note: The shawl edging adds 1 extra tassel fringe on each side, so we need to cut 24 sets of 4-strands of yarn for each shawl edge. 

Cut 96-strands, each measuring approximately 18-inches in length, in each color of yarn. 

Work each tassel fringe, using a lark’s head knot, into the stitches along the short edges of the shawl from the same direction so the tassel knot is tied the same for every knot. Trim the tassel fringe to the same length for both sides of the shawl.

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I’d like to say Thank you to Brenda for testing this pattern for me! You can see Brenda’s Project Page on Ravelry here. Brenda used a 6.5 mm (K) hook and Red Heart Hygge Yarn in Powder.

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