Our Little Bunny – A Free Crochet Toy Pattern
I love making toys – they are not always practical but they are so cute and my kids (and I) love them. This is just a little bunny pattern I created using one ball of Bernat Pop! yarn and a 3.5 mm hook. Other supplies you will need include 12 mm safety eyes (or buttons) and fiberfill stuffing. You may also want a pom pom maker but I have included instructions on how to make your own pom poms in the post too. I hope you love our little bunny and let me know in the comments if you’d like to see more toy patterns – I love designing them – so if there is interest I can start doing more. I recommend you hand stitch the eyes if you are giving this toy to a small child. Safety eyes are secure but they can break under pressure so it is best to be safe and sew the eyes like the nose has been done if you are gifting this to a baby.
Supplies
- Yarn: 1 Ball of Bernat Pop! (5 oz / 140 g; 280 yds / 256 m) Medium Weight [4] yarn. 100% acrylic. Color: Lipstick on Your Color
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E)
- 12 mm safety eyes (2), Scissors, Yarn Needle, PolyFil, Pom Pom Maker, Stitch Marker (optional)
Difficulty Level
EASY
Finished Size
17 inches tall (including ears); 4 inches wide at her bottom
Gauge
Gauge is not imperative for this project – please ensure that the stitches you make are close enough together for the fiberfil not to show through between them. If you can see spaces between your stitches please move down a hook size.
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
bl – back loop
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
DMR – double magic ring
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together (hdc decrease)
R – row
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Helpful Tutorials
Helpful Video Tutorials
Notes
- The head of the bunny is worked in a single color. The rest of the bunny is worked in stripes.
- The pattern is worked from the top of the bunny’s head to the bottom of his body. The arms and legs and ears are stitched on afterwards using a simple whip stitch.
- You may wish to unroll the ball of yarn into individual colors to make the stripes smaller for the arms, legs and ears. Or you can alternately just work the bunny using the yarn as it comes out of the ball for larger and longer color stretches.
- This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch to join or chain additional stitches unless it is specified. You will need a stitch marker to mark your place.
- If you are comfortable placing your ‘increases’ (i.e. when you make 2 hdc in a stitch) you can scatter them throughout the round instead of placing them in the same spot in each round. By scattering them it will give you a rounder shape to the finished project. The bunny I crocheted does not have scattered stitches so you may see the increases as the pattern is written. She still looks just fine 🙂
- Color Changes – I have indicated where I made my color changes in the instructions with CC and the color I used. If you want to make your bunny striped too, make your color changes on the last yarn over of the last st of the round.
Little Bunny Pattern Instructions
EYE PATCHES
(make 2) and make these first as you will need them in order to assemble the bunny’s head in the next step
R1: Crochet 12 sc in a DMR (see video tutorial on how to begin you double magic ring here). [12]
Finish off with an invisible join, leaving a long tail for sewing to the bunny body. Put these 2 eye patches aside until it is time to position the eyes on the head after R13 of the BODY.
MUZZLE
R1: In a DMR, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) and work 11 dc. [12]
Finish off with an invisible join, leaving a long tail for sewing to the bunny body. Put this aside until after you have finished the body.
HEAD
I began crocheting with the first color available in the ball of yarn. If you would like to use a different color as the main head color, please separate the yarn colors in your ball before you begin.
The first color in my ball was dark pink and I used dark pink.
With dark pink: R1: Crochet 6 hdc in a DMR (see video tutorial on how to begin your double magic ring here). [6]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around. [12]
R3: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18]
R4: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [24]
R5: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [30]
R6: 1 hdc in each st around. [30]
R7-R10: Rep R6
R11: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [24]
R12: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [18]
R13: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around [12]
I recommend you stuff the head at this point and then position the safety eyes.
Here’s how I do this: I stuff the head completely and place the patches (crocheted first – above) and the safety eyes in position without putting on the back washers. Next, I remove the stuffing and place the washers on the backs of the safety pegs. Once I am certain they are safely secure, I re-stuff the head firmly – but not to the point that it stretches the stitches apart.
R14: 1 hdc in each st around. [12]
R15: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [18]
R16: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [24]
CC – light pink: R17: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [30]
R18: 1 hdc in each st around [30]
I recommend you stuff the neck firmly at this point – this will ensure it can support the head of the bunny. We will stuff the body after R32.
R19: Rep R18
R20: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [36]
R21: 1 hdc in each st around [36]
CC – dark gray: R22-R23: 1 hdc in each st around [36]
R24: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. [42]
CC – light gray: R25-27: 1 hdc in each st around. [42]
CC – dark pink: R28: 1 hdc in each st around [42]
R29: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [36]
R30: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts**. Rep from * to ** around [30]
R31: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around [20]
We just did a decrease of 10 stitches in R31. Please check to be sure you have 20 stitches.
R32: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 6 times. 1 hdc in each of the last 2 sts. [14]
I recommend you stuff the body firmly at this point.
R33: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 4 times. 1 hdc in each of the last 2 sts. [10]
Finish off leaving a tail of yarn to close the bunny. The way I do this is the same as how I weave to close my mittens and hats worked from the bottom up. Thread the yarn end on your needle and working through the front loops (the ones closest to you) weave your yarn in and out of the last 10 stitches before pulling and tightening the round to close it completely. I have a tutorial here to show you how this is done: Simple Closing Method
Tip: When I am crocheting two of something which need to match I make the time to crochet both in the same sitting. I find my gauge is closer and both pieces are the same if I work them in a single sitting.
ARMS
(make 2)
We are beginning at the hands and work to the shoulders. I planned my bunny colors to make the stitches at the shoulders match the color of the stitches at the shoulder of the bunny body. This makes joining look neater.
With white: R1: Crochet 8 hdc in a DMR. [8]
R2: 1 hdc in each st around. [8]
R3: Rep R2
CC – dark gray: R4: 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts. [9]
CC – dark pink: R5: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
R6: Rep R5 [9]
CC – white: R7: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
CC – light gray: R8-R10: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
CC – light pink: R11: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
CC – dark pink: R12-R16: 1 hdc in each st around. [9]
Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn for assembly. Stuff both arms firmly and set aside.
LEGS
(make 2)
We are beginning at the feet and working to the top of the thigh. As with the arms I planned for the color of yarn at the top of the thigh to match the body color where it would attach.
With white: R1: Crochet 10 hdc in a DMR. [10]
R2-R6: 1 hdc in each around. [10]
CC – dark gray: R7-R10: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
CC – dark pink: R11-R15: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
CC – white: R16-R18: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
CC – dark pink: R19: 1 hdc in each st around. [10]
Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn for assembly. Stuff both legs firmly and set aside.
EARS
(make 2)
We are beginning at the tip of the ears and working toward the part that will attach to the top of the head. As with the arms and legs, I planned for the color which joins to the head to be the same color as the top of the head.
With light gray: R1: Crochet 6 hdc in a DMR. [6]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around. [12]
R3: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. [18]
R4: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
CC – white: R5-R6: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
CC – light pink: R7-R11: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
CC – light pink: R12-15: 1 hdc in each st around. [18]
R19: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts**. Rep from * to ** one more time. [16]
R20: 1 hdc in each st around. [16]
R21: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sts**. Rep from * to ** one more time. [14]
R22: *Hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts**. Rep from * to ** one more time. [12]
Finish off leaving a long tail for assembly. The ears are NOT stuffed.
Fold the ears in half lengthwise. The 12 stitches of R22 will be folded in half to create a double layer 6 stitches wide. Line up those 6 stitches and then whipstitch them closed together. (i.e. Thread your yarn end on your yarn needle and whip stitch through both layers of the ear at R22.) This creates a fold in the ear. Do not finish off as you will still need to attach these to the top of the head.
TAIL
Create a Pom Pom for the tail. I used this tool and then trimmed A LOT of the extra yarn off to make it super firm. My finished pom pom tail is 2 inches by 2 inches. Put this aside until you are ready to attach it to the body. If you don’t have a pom pom maker I have a tutorial here on how to make your own pom pom without one: How to Make A Pom Pom
ASSEMBLY
I began by adding the nose to the muzzle for the bunny, then I attached the arms and the legs. I added the ears next and finally the tail.
NOSE
I used one of the colors of yarn (light pink) in the ball and working from the center hole in the muzzle, simply stitched up to top of the dc stitches (beneath the front and back loop of the stitches) to create the nose shape. It took about 10 stitches to create the nose. Finish off and weave in ends on the backside of the muzzle in the same section where you added the nose color.
Next position the muzzle where you would like it on the face. You can see mine for an example here:
Working around the post of the dc stitches beneath the front and back loops, hand stitch the muzzle in place two thirds of the way around. Try to work into the spaces between the stitches and try not to split the yarn to make it nice and neat.
Stuff the muzzle with a bit of polyfil and then finish stitching the muzzle in place. For a visual for how I worked around the posts please see below (this is from my Not Another Owl Hat Pattern):
Arms and Legs and Ears
If you are nervous about where you are going to attach your pieces, you can attach the pieces with a safety pin and move it around until you like how it looks. I simply whip stitched each piece on securely before weaving in my ends. You can see my bunny here and decide if you like where the parts are located – or try a different position. For a whip stitch tutorial please see this post.
Tail
I tied one more strand of the yarn around the center of the pompom tightly and then I sewed it directly into the body of the bunny.
Darla asked me to make some clothes for Bunny with the leftover yarn – I will add those in a separate post soon! She has a little poncho and ear warmer set 🙂
Please let me know if you find an error in the pattern. I try my very best to ensure it is 100% accurate; but I can make mistakes from time-to-time. Thank you 🙂 Rhondda
#yarncake #amigurumi #freepattern #freecrochetpattern #toy #bunny
