Boys Simple Striped Hat Pattern

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Here’s how it works.

When I say “boys” it is really just a unisex hat – but I made it specifically for ‘my boy’ so it has been very eloquently named “Boys Simple Striped Hat”.

This simple to follow pattern is crocheted with Bulky Weight Yarn and a 8.0 mm hook. You can crochet one of these hats within a matter of a few hours (less if you are a speedy crocheter). The pattern is written using mainly double crochet stitches and is worked in the round.

Have fun making a Simple Striped Hat!

Boys Simple Striped Hat Pattern

Boys Simple Striped Hat - Oombawka Design Crochet

Here’s Drew wearing his Cozy Hat!

Boys Simple Striped Hat Free Pattern OombawkaDesign

 Supplies

  • Yarn: Loops & Threads Impeccable Charisma (109 yds / 100 m; 3.5 oz / 100 g). 100% acrylic. Colors: Black and Yellow. Amount used depends on size you are making.
  • Hook: 8.0 mm (L) Clover Amour Crochet Hook
  • Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)

Difficulty Level

  • EASY

Finished Size

  • See instructions for specific sizes.

Gauge

  • 2 sts per inch and 1.325 rounds per inch for dc
  • 2 sts per inch and 2 rounds per inch for sc

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • MR – magic ring
  • R – row/round
  • rem – remaining
  • rep – repeat
  • sc – single crochet
  • sk – skip
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • st/sts – stitch/stitches
  • * – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
  • () – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
  • [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Helpful Tutorials

Notes

  • Since the ch 3 counts as 1 double crochet you do not work into the stitch at its base (except for R2 when you work 2 stitches in each stitch around).
  • When you slip stitch to the first double crochet of the round, skip the ch 3 and slip stitch into the next st (1st dc of the round).
  • Work into the slip stitch, as a stitch, in every round, except the rounds immediately following a sc round.
  • Color A: Black Color B: Yellow
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Pattern Instructions

Size: 12 months to 3 years 
to fit head circumference of 19″; finished height 7″

R1: Color A: MR ch 3, work 11 dc, sl st to the first dc to join [12]
R2: (Ch 3, 1 dc) in the first st, 2 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 9 times. 1 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [34]

R4: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [34]
R5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B. [34]
R6: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [34]
R7: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. [34]
R8-R9: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [34]
R10: Ch 1, 1 sc in the bl of each st around. Sl st to the first st to join. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any ends. [34]

Size: 3 to 5 years 
to fit head circumference of 20″; finished height 7.5″

R1: Color A: MR ch 3, work 11 dc, sl st to the first dc to join [12]
R2: (Ch 3, 1 dc) in the first st, 2 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [36]
R4: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [36]
R5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B. [36]
R6: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [36]
R7: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. [36]
R8-R10: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join.
R11: Ch 1, 1 sc in the bl of each st around. Sl st to the first st to join. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any ends. [36]

Size: 6 to 10 years 
to fit head circumference of 21″; finished height 8″

R1: Color A: MR ch 3, work 11 dc, sl st to the first dc to join [12]
R2: (Ch 3, 1 dc) in the first st, 2 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join.  [36]
R4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. 1 dc in each of the next 17 sts. 2 dc in the next st. 1 dc in each rem st around. Sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [38]
R5: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [38]
R6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B. [38]
R7: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [38]
R8: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. [38]
R9-R10: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [38]
R11: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around. [38]
R12: 1 sc in the bl of each st around. Sl st to the first st to join. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any ends. [38]

Size: Adult Small /Medium
to fit head circumference of 22″; finished height 8.5″

R1: Color A: MR ch 3, work 11 dc, sl st to the first dc to join [12]
R2: (Ch 3, 1 dc) in the first st, 2 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join.  [36]
R4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [40]
R5: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [40]
R6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B. [40]
R7: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [40]
R8: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. [40]
R9-R11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [40]
R12: Ch 1, 1 sc in the bl of each st around. Sl st to the first st to join. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any ends. [40]

Size: Adult Large
to fit head circumference of 23″; finished height 9″

R1: Color A: MR ch 3, work 11 dc, sl st to the first dc to join [12]
R2: (Ch 3, 1 dc) in the first st, 2 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join.  [36]
R4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [42]
R5: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [42]
R6: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B. [42]
R7: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as you sl st to join. 1 sc in each rem st around. Pull up Color A. Sl st to the first sc to join. [42]
R8: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, except the sl st; sl st to the first dc to join. [42]
R9-R11: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st around, sl st to the first dc to join. [42]
R12: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around. [42]
R13: 1 sc in the bl of each st around. Sl st to the first st to join. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any ends. [42]

Tutorial (Pull Up Color A or B)

Basically you are just pulling the loop of the new color through the existing loop on your hook and then pulling the original yarn end to tighten it; before beginning to crochet in the new color.

In the image below you will see the black yarn is the existing loop of yarn. I have created a slip knot and put it on the hook in the new color (yellow). Now just slide the new yarn through the black yarn loop and ‘ta da’ it becomes your ‘working yarn’. Pull the black yarn end snuggly to tighten it around the yellow for now and then when you weave in your ends it will remain secure. It creates a nice clean color change for the yellow yarn.

Yarn Change for Boys Simple Striped Hat

If you prefer to change on the last yarn over of the stitch, here is my tutorial to show you how to do this method instead:

Please note, the ‘cleanest and neatest’ color change you can make will happen if you finish off each color at the end of the round and rejoin your new color with a standing stitch (standing single crochet or standing double crochet) for the following round. It is more time consuming and you will have more ends to sew in but it will be perfect and you won’t have any ‘blips’ caused by carrying your yarn up the inside of your hat.

For those of you who want to see the ‘seam’ on the hat – here’s the ‘seam’ side:

Seam Side Boys Simple Striped Hat Free Pattern
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32 Comments

  1. My go to quick beanie now for a 5 yarn. The author is so patient and responsive. Just love this look and have made several sizes now. Thank you!

  2. Hi Elaine, you need to work into the final slip stitch of the round to make your last 2 stitches. Remember the notes 🙂 Work into the slip stitch, as a stitch, in every round.

  3. Me again. Ok, on round 2 it says to join to the first DC (which means you skip over the chain 3), then there’s no way to get to 24 at the end of that round. If you skip the chain, that leaves 11 stitches left x 2 =22. Now I know why I am having issues. Can you please let me know on this round, if I am misinterpreting?

  4. Hi Elaine, You are very welcome – it can be hard when everyone writes patterns differently too! I’m happy to help and I actually ran out to buy some of the yarn I used to hopefully film a video tutorial for it sometime this fall/winter. I’m in the middle of a big project right now so I’m not sure I will have time before you are done making it though so feel free to keep messaging me or email me at:
    support @ oombawka design crochet.com

    (without the spaces)
    Best wishes, Rhondda

  5. Ok, this is most helpful. I will try again. I may have not been using the dc to slipstitch as I was short. But I drew it out on paper and it should be adding up to 36 so I have a mistake some where. Been making hats for years and always have issues in the first 2-3 rounds. 🙂

    Thank you so much!!!!

  6. Hi Elaine, Please see my previous message. The repeat starts with a single stitch being worked (for the first stitch it is the ch3 and we do not work anything else in dc at the base of the ch3). The last stitch of the round is worked into that slip stitch you joined with at the end of the round before.

    The notes for the pattern have this included:
    >When you slip stitch to the first double crochet of the round, skip the ch 3 and slip stitch into the next st (1st dc of the round).
    >Work into the slip stitch, as a stitch, in every round.

    If you didn’t work into that slip stitch in Round 2 you are likely short 2 stitches in Round 3 when you begin. I suggest double checking how many stitches you have at the end of Round 2 and if you only have 22, then make those last 2 in the slip stitch at the end of that round (which you may have skipped).

    Hope this helps 🙂
    Rhondda

  7. R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st (which is one time). *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around (which is 11 times); sl st to the first dc to join. [36] (added an extra stitch twelve times so 12 extra stitches. Add this to 24 and you have 36 stitches at the end of Round 3)

    Hi Elaine, at the end of Round 2 you have 24 stitches. In round 3 you add 12 stitches. We add an extra stitch every 2 stitches. This gives us our total of 36 stitches at the end of Round 3. If you are not reaching 36 stitches I would double check that you have 24 stitches at the end of Round 2.

    So in the first stitch you put the ch3 in the next stitch you put 2dc, (in the next stitch you put 1dc, in the next stitch you put 2dc) work this section in parenthesis 11 times. This adds 12 stitches.
    Does this help?
    Rhondda

  8. Sorry to bug you. When I put the first DC in the “next” stitch it leaves a small gap between stitch 1 and 2 should it? And then I don’t get the right stitch count unless I put the DC and 2 stitches in the FIRST stitch. When you say “next” are you really not using the “first” stitch where you put the DC?

    I am squeezing in the 36/38 stitches (making both sizes) in order to get the count. Maybe I am just not using the “last” stitch and should be, but it looks like it’s not really a stitch. Please advise! Thanks.

  9. Rhondda, thanks so much for a quick reply! I understand there was an error. My big question is in that round 3, do you do the triple/double crochet and then 1 more stitch in that same stitch? Then 2 in the very next stitch? Otherwise it doesn’t get to 36. If I do that then 36 works and the next round works too. I think.
    Sometimes if my count is off I just throw another stitch in to get to that number (ie 36) but I want it to be right. thank you!!

  10. Hi Elaine, no worries 🙂 I’m happy to help.

    R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join. [36]

    So for Round 3, there is an error and as it was written you should only have been able to reach 35 stitches. It should say Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. Then the rest of the round is correct.

    Round 4 is written correctly and it will add 4 stitches to the 36 you have at the end of Round 3 for a total of 40 stitches. You are working 1 stitch in each of the first 8 stitches then 2 stitches in the next stitch, 4 times.

    Also, traditionally turning chains for double crochet (US Term) is 3 chains, for half double crochet it is 2 chains and for single crochet it is 1 chains. Treble crochet it is 4 chains. But crochet designers vary this and do not always stick to the ‘proper’ number of turning chains – I know I don’t always do this – especially when I am working in spirals, amigurumi or shorter stitches. I often skip them altogether for some stitches or uses invisible joins at the end of the round when I’m doing color changes. So yes, working an invisible join or even a slip stitch (tightly) then finishing off the color and rejoining with a standing stitch for the next round will give you a much neater color change.

    I hope this helps 🙂 if you find you only need to chain 2 then you may have relaxded chain stitches (some crocheters crochet very tightly which is why I think the standard is set to 3 chains – they can actually get 3 chains to be the same height as the double crochet).

    Best, Rhondda

  11. Sorry to bother you again. I am making the small adult size hat. Round 3 still shows 1 DC after the chain, should it be 2?
    I forced it to be 2.
    Also, I am having a hard time getting to 36 and 40 unless I put the very first stitch after the join into the same stitch as the join. But the pattern reads “next” stitch so does that mean I am doing it wrong? I wish I could see photos of where you put these stitches. Please let me know. I love your hat.

  12. thank you for clarifying!
    A 2 chain is usually used for a dc and a chain 3 for triple crochet so I think we are good. I am using the invisible dc join and hopefully that looks ok.

  13. Hi Elaine, yes I would recommend using a slip stitch, ch 1 for the single crochet rounds. I’m popping into the pattern to add this. I do start with the Ch 3 and I count that as 1 dc for the dc rounds. You can start with a double crochet instead but you’d need to pull the loop on the hook to the height of a double crochet to do this or else the first dc will be very short and tight compared to the rest of the dc of the round. I don’t recommend doing a chain 3 and then 2 dc because it will add extra circumference to the finished hat. Best wishes, Rhondda

  14. Hi
    on the rounds with sc, don’t you join then ch1? If you don’t, then the stitch slips out. Love this hat and the shape!! Been looking for something like this shape for years.

    Also, I typically don’t see 3 chain for DC each round, I see 2 DC. Wondering why it’s 3 chain.

    Thanks!

  15. Hi
    on the rounds with sc, don’t you join then ch1? If you don’t, then the stitch slips out. Love this hat and the shape!! Been looking for something like this shape for years. Thanks!

  16. Hi Patricia! Thank you SO much for catching this! Yes it should say Rep R8. I copied in pasted from the size before and did not update that to R8 for the larger sizes. I’m so sorry! I really appreciate you letting me know so I could fix the error in the instructions. Have a great day 🙂 and check your email I’ve sent you a private message too.

    All the best, Rhondda

  17. Is there an error on rows 9 through 11? It states to repeat row 7, but the hat will not be long enough because it is sc. I just dc to length.

  18. Hi Michelle 🙂 I’m so happy you were able to make it work for you! I agree Poms are so popular this year it is a perfect choice! Have a lovely week, Rhondda

  19. Hi there! I’m still a beginner crochet-er so I don’t own an 8mm hook. I grabbed the one closest, 6.75mm, repeated R4 and R5 once (lg adult), then continued on. Turned out perfect. Thank you so much for making this pattern available. Love it. Oh added a pom too since it was for me. Made it more fem. 😊

  20. Hi Sophia, My goodness there is definitely an error. I’ve gone in and updated the pattern. It should have read:

    R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [36]

    I am so sorry!! Thank you for letting me know!!

    All the best, Rhondda

  21. No matter how much I try and try (I HATE FROGGING) I cannot get R3 to 36 stitches. I’m sorry to complain but this is not making sense. I’m going to try another pattern as this is not working because I need to do this in 2 days. It looks so beautiful too.

  22. Hi Ashley, There is an error in the pattern! I apologize. I’ve rewritten and I apologize for not catching it sooner. It should read: R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** 9 times. 1 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [34] All the best, Rhondda

  23. Row three can only have a max of 32 stitches using your count. I believe you meant for the pattern to read …

    12mths-3yrs
    R3: ch 3, 2 dc in next st., *1 dc, 2 dc* until you reach 30 st. Then 1 dc in remaining 4 st. (34)
    All other sizes
    R3: ch 3, 2 dc in next st., *1 dc, 2 dc* (36)

  24. Hi Bronna, I don’t have a video for the Boys Simple Striped Hat. You may be watching a video for a different hat pattern?

  25. On the video you are talking about half double crochets. I don’t see that in the pattern directions. Am I reading it wrong?

  26. Hi Linda, the number of stitches you have for R3 will depend on which size hat you are working. If you are working the 12 mos to 3 years size, after R2 you have 24 stitches. Then in R3 you are only increasing 10 stitches to make it to 34 stitches. (Note how the repeat section says repeat 9 times and then work 1 dc in each remaining stitch?) Remember for this particular hat we are counting the ch 3 as a dc and working into it – so if you are missing it you may want to add a stitch marker to make sure you remember to work into the stitch. If you forgot to work into it in R1 and R2, by R3 you would be 2 stitches short and only have 32. ? Hope this helps, Rhondda

  27. I’m having the same issue as Rhondda. I’ve worked, reworked, worked, reworked and row 3 still comes out 32 dc. I’m ready to move on to another pattern.

  28. Thank you for a quick response. I put it aside to work on another one, now I can finish this one. Thanks again.

  29. Hi Patti, Each round is increasing 12 stitches. So for R3 the first st has 1 dc, the next st has 1 dc, the third st you need to work 2 dc into. Then you repeat this… 1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc, around the hat. See the section that indicates *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st**? That translates to 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st. This sequence of stitches is repeated all the way around the hat. So every 3rd stitch you crochet will have 2 dc in it instead of 1. This will increase your hat round by 12 sts to give you 36 sts. Remember for this particular hat we are counting the ch 3 as a dc and working into it – so if you are missing it you may want to add a stitch marker to make sure you remember to work into the stitch 🙂 Hope this helps, Rhondda

  30. someone please help me. no matter how many times i try, i cannot get r3 to be 36 dc. I am trying to make the size 3 to 5 years. i get 12 in r1, and 24 in r2, but cannot get 36 in r3. please help!

    R1: Color A: MR ch 3, work 11 dc, sl st to the first dc to join [12]
    R2: (Ch 3, 1 dc) in the first st, 2 dc in each rem st around; sl st to the first dc to join. [24]
    R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st. *1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around; sl st to the first dc to join. Pull up Color B (see tutorial at end of post) [36]

  31. That’s a net pattern for gifts! I do a lot of charity work for children, and this one would be a great one. Thanks for sharing, Rhondda!