Free Half Double Crochet Beanie Pattern

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This beginner free half double crochet beanie pattern is crocheted with worsted weight yarn and a 5.50 mm crochet hook.  Sizes available: baby hat pattern sizes all the way to adult crochet beanie pattern sizes.

I have had numerous requests for beanies using different yarn and hook combinations.  The first request is for a half double crochet beanie pattern using worsted weight yarn (specifically Red Heart with Love) with a 5.50 mm crochet hook. The instructions below are for a mid-ear length beanie using this specific yarn and hook combination.  If you want this beanie to reach the base of your earlobe instead – the information you need to increase the length is included at the very end of the post.

I have started the project by working a double magic ring (see this tutorial) but you can just as easily crochet a regular magic ring or begin by crocheting a chain-3 and slip stitch to join to the first chain to form a ring and then work your stitches directly into that ring.

When I finish off and weave in the ends for my hats, I use the invisible join technique. You can read more about this technique in this post: Invisible Join Technique

Please note, you do not need to slip stitch to join the rounds – or add any chain stitches at the end of the round to increase the stitch height to begin the next round.

If you are changing colors in your hat I do recommend finishing off your old color using the Invisible Join Technique and then beginning a new round in your new color. This will give you a much more finished and seamless look to your hat.

Simple Half Double Crochet Beanie Pattern

Half Double Crochet Adult Beanie free pattern

(Worsted Weight/5.50 mm Hook)

Half Double Crochet Beanie Pattern Details

SUPPLIES

  • Yarn: Red Heart with Love Yarn [4] Medium Weight Yarn (Red Heart Super Saver also works for this pattern)
  • Hook: 5.5 mm (I) Crochet hook
  • Finished Project Yardage: each size uses a different amount of yarn but you do not need more than 1 ball of yarn for any size
  • Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)

DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Easy

FINISHED SIZE

see individual sizes below – please note hats are slightly smaller than the actual head size because they stretch to fit the head (so they don’t fall off)

GAUGE

3 hdc per inch
2.75 rounds per inch

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.

ABBREVIATIONS

US Terminology used

ch – chain
ch1sp – chain 1 space
DMR – double magic ring
hdc – half double crochet
R – row
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
() – Repeat the instructions between the brackets the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

HELPFUL TUTORIALS

Stitch Anatomy

Magic Ring

HELPFUL VIDEO TUTORIALS

Double Magic Ring

Quick Stitch Guide 

Notes:

  • Some repeats include instructions you need to repeat 6 times (rather than 8). This is correct and necessary in order to reach the specific hat size. The remaining stitches in the round will only receive 1 hdc each – this is how we reach the specific number of stitches found at the end of the row [30].  I’ve done this because each head size requires a specific number of stitches to be the right size. If I had continued repeating for the full 8 times the hat would end up being too large by the time it was finished.
  • You may omit R11 of the hat if you slip stitch tightly – in order for the slip stitch edge to work it must be crocheted at the same gauge as the rest of the hat. If you are unable to make these sl st 3 sts per inch then I recommend you omit this round. Slip stitches which are worked too tightly will decrease the final size of the hat and it will not fit the intended head size. You may alternately add 1 single round of crab stitch if you would prefer, or omit one rounds of the repeat section and work 1 round of single crochet instead of the slip stitch round.
  • The longer ear length hat instructions have been included at the end of the post. To make the hat even longer – slouch size – feel free to work additional increase rounds until you reach your desired hat length.

Are you looking for an embellishment for your hat? Here are some options:

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Half Double Crochet Beanie Pattern Instructions

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Preemie Hat (fits 12″ circumference, 4″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR  [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 6 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [30]
R5: 1 hdc in each st around [30]
R6-10: repeat R5 [30]
R11: 1 sl st (loosely) in each st around [30]

Newborn Hat (fits 13.5″ circumference, 4.5″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 3 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around  [35]
R6: 1 hdc in each st around [35]
R7-12: repeat R6 [35]
R13: sl st (loosely) in each st around [35]

0-3 months Hat (fits 16″ circumference, 5.25″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times  [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the 4 sts) 2 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [42]
R7: 1 hdc in each st around [42]
R8-15: repeat R7 [42]
R16: sl st (loosely) in each st around [42]

3-6 months Hat (fits 17″ circumference, 5.5″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times  [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts) 5 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [45]
R7: 1 hdc in each st around [45]
R8-15: repeat R7 [45]
R16: sl st in each st around [45]

6-12 months Hat (fits 18″ circumference, 5.75″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times  [40]
R6: (2hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts) 8 times [48]
R7: 1 hdc in each st around [48]
R8-16 : repeat R7 [48]
R17: 1 sl st  (loosely) in each st around [48]

12-24 months Hat (fits 19″ circumference, 6.25″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts) 8 times [48]
R7: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the  next 5 sts) 3 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [51]
R8: 1 hdc in each st around [51]
R9-17: repeat R8 [51]
R18: 1 sl st (loosely) in each st around [51]

3-5 years Hat (fits 20″ circumference, 6.5″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts) 8 times  [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts) 8 times [48]
R7: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts) 6 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [54]
R8: 1 hdc in each st around [54]
R9-17: repeat R8 [54]
R18: 1 sl st (loosely) in each st around [54]

6-10 years Hat (fits 21″ circumference, 7″ height)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times  [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts) 8 times [48]
R7: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts) 8 times [56]
R8: 1 hdc in each st around [56]
R9-18: repeat R8 [56]
R19: 1 sl st (loosely) in each st around, F/O [56]

Adult Crochet Beanie Patterns

Adult Small Hat (fits circumference 22″, height 7.25″)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times  [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts) 8 times [48]
R7: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts) 8 times [56]
R8: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sts) 4 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [60]
R9: 1 hdc in each st around [60]
R10-19: repeat R9 [60]
R20: 1 sl st (loosely) in each st around, F/O [60]

Medium Hat (fits circumference 23″ height 7.5″)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts) 8 times [48]
R7: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts) 8 times [56]
R8: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sts) 7 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [63]
R9: 1 hdc in each st around [63]
R10-19: repeat R9 [63]
R20: 1 sl st in each st around, F/O [63]

Adult Large  Hat(fits circumference 24″, height 7.75″)

R1: 8 hdc in DMR [8]
R2: 2 hdc in each st around [16]
R3: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in the next st) 8 times [24]
R4: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts) 8 times [32]
R5: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts) 8 times  [40]
R6: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sts) 8 times [48]
R7: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sts) 8 times [56]
R8: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sts) 8 times  [64]
R9: (2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the next 7sts) 2 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st around [66]
R10: 1 hdc in each st around [66]
R11-20: repeat R10 [66]
R21: 1 sl st in each st around, F/O [66]

How to Make Your Crocheted Hat Longer!

If you would like this beanie to reach the base of the earlobe, instead of mid-ear, please add additional rounds of repeats (the rounds you work without increasing any stitches) as follows:

Preemie & Newborn: add 1 additional repeat round

0-3 months, 3-6 months: add 2 additional repeat rounds

6-12 months: add 3 additional repeat rounds

12-24 months: add 2 additional repeat rounds

3-5 years: add 3 additional repeat rounds

6-10 years: add 3 additional repeat rounds

Adult small (teen): add 3 additional repeat rounds

Adult medium (women): add 3 additional repeat rounds

Adult large (men): add 3 additional repeat rounds

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82 Comments

  1. Hi Julia, If you are asking based on the Simple Half Double Crochet Basic Beanie pattern which is being crocheted in the round, the Right Side (RS) would be the outside of the hat. The WS (wrong side) is the inside of the hat. When you are crocheting the hat and it begins to take shape be sure to work around the outside of the hat so it takes form like a ‘bowl’ and you are crocheting on the outer side of the bowl. If you are crocheting on the inside of the bowl, flip your hat to make that side be outside and continue working. Hope this helps! Rhondda

  2. Hi Sally, The slight difference in height created by working in spirals is practically invisible once the person is wearing the hat. Once the stitches stretch by putting the hat on and off you should not be able to tell anymore. Some people work 1 sc in the last stitch instead of 1 hdc to make the jump to the invisible join seam less noticeable. It may seem very visible when you first finish crocheting but after you do the invisible join seam edge to mimic the edges of the other stitches and weave in your ends try manipulating the fabric with your fingers slightly to pull down on the last stitches and up on the first stitches to even them out. It is much less noticeable than the line seam all the way up the back of the hat 🙂 Hope this helps! Rhondda.

  3. Since I don’t do a slip stitch or chain to end each e row, my hat is uneven. What should I do to fix this? Sally

  4. Hi Jane, The slip stitch is used as a decorative stitch (not a tight closing stitch) and worked at the same tension (gauge) as the other stitches. If you tend to crochet slip stitches tightly please feel free to substitute with 1 round of single crochet, otherwise the hat will be too tight. If you can crochet them at the same tension (gauge) as the rest of the hat was done then the hat will fit properly and not become overly stretched out from being worn. All the best, Rhondda

  5. Hello! I just got to row 25 of the simple hdc beanie for adult man but I have never ended a beanie with slip stitch all the way around. Are the instructions correct saying slst row 26 or is it meant to say sc?

  6. Hi Mary, A couple of reasons you may be gaining stitches are if you are joining your rounds with a slip stitch and beginning each round with a chain 2 (this pattern does not use a slip stitch to join and it it does not use a ch 2 at the beginning of the rounds). This would add extra stitches and increase the hat size. If you accidentally work into those slip stitches and chain 2 stitches it would also increase your stitches each round. The other thing that might be happening is that when the instructions say to repeat 6 times instead of all the way around, the repeat is being crocheted all the way around instead accidentally. To get the hat size there needs to be a certain number of stitches so instead of repeating all the way around and having extra stitches the pattern is written to stop increasing when we have enough stitches. Some rows will show a smaller repeat and then the phrase, work 1 st in each remaining st around. Hope this helps! Rhondda

  7. I love this pattern and would like to use it to make chemo hats to donate to the American Cancer Society or any online groups which take donated hats. I am having a devil of a time with this pattern with the beginning and ending of each round. Each time I try this pattern, I end up a stitch or two short. What exactly am I doing wrong??? Could you please explain this process for me as I would love to get starting making these hats.

  8. Hi Brittani, No you don’t need to ch 2. For my patterns if I don’t write it in the instructions, or in the notes section then you don’t need to 🙂 I usually only do a ch 2 or ch 3 to start on stitches taller than a dc. I do recommend you have a stitch marker because when we work in spirals (there is no seam which is great) you will need to be able to track which is your starting stitch 🙂 I’m happy you found my site too! Have a lovely day, Rhondda

  9. Hi!!! I am so glad I came across your patterns! For this pattern, do I chain 2 for each row?

  10. Hi Lora, Of course 🙂 You can start by chaining 4 and then slip stitching that to form a ring. Then you can work into the slip stitch ring instead. If you use this method be sure to weave in that yarn end in multiple directions once you are finished making the hat to make the top nice and strong 🙂 All the best, Rhondda

  11. Is there anywsy to do this pattern without the magic circle? i have ao much trouble using it.

  12. Hi Victoria, I don’t understand. Do you mean at the end of the hat where the last row meets up it isn’t quite even? This is because the hat is worked in a continuous spiral so it is slightly ‘offset’ to compensate for ‘no seam’ down the entire back of the hat. To make it almost completely invisible use an invisible join to finish off your hat. Then once it is being worn it stretches slightly to fit the head and you will be hard pressed to find the spot you joined the hat.

    I’m not sure what the ‘swirling look’ means though. Unless you mean because it doesn’t have the seam? and is spiraling around the hat in rounds?

    Hope I helped a bit – if you can clarify I can perhaps assist you better. Thank you, Rhondda

  13. This is a great pattern.. When making this hat, I followed the instructions to the tee, but the back has a swirling look and not even. What have I done wrong? Thank you

  14. Hi Tori, If you only want to add a bit of length then yes you can just add a couple rounds of the repeat section at the end of the hat 🙂 if you need to make it bigger to fit a larger sized head though you would need to increase the top of the hat in size first – so if you take the person’s finished head circumference and subtract 2 inches – then take the gauge of the pattern and multiple that by the hat size you just found it will give you the number of stitches your hat needs to be around to fit their head. You would then need to work the repeat sections at the top of the hat where it increases a certain number every round – until you have the number of stitches you needed. Then work that same number around until you reach the length of the hat you’d like. Hope this makes sense – working on my first coffee right now 😉 I’m happy you found the instructions easy to follow and your Aunt and Mom both liked it 🙂 Let me know if you have any questions – I check in a couple times a day to see if anyone needs help. All the best in the New Year! Rhondda

  15. This is going to sound sooo stupid but, I really need to know lol and I searched all the comments and no one has asked yet. Prob gonna be the only one to because I’m sure it’s a common sense question… when making the hay longer do you add the suggested amounts to each round or just the last round lol I think I know the answer but I just want to make sure. Thanks in advance and also, just wanted to say how easy your patterns are…I made another one of your hats for my mama for her birthday and apparently my aunt kim loved it sooo much my mom gave it to her so here I am again

  16. Hi Sarah, Are you perhaps using a single crochet stitch rather than a half double crochet stitch? The 12-24 months flat circle diameter is 5.4 inches across after round 7. It will take shape and form the circumference when you are working the rounds without any increases but if your initial FCD is less than 5.4 inches the hat is going to be too small.

    This pattern is written in US Crochet Terms – so if you were working single crochets (hdc in the UK) it may explain the difference in the stitch height.

    The only other reason it will be smaller is if your gauge is much tighter than my gauge. The gauge for the pattern is 3 sts per inch / 2.75 rounds per inch. If you have more than 2.75 rounds per inch the stitch height is much shorter than what I crochet. You can either try to crochet more loosely or you can move up a hook size (or 2) until you reach the gauge for the pattern.

    Since hats are based on Maths – the gauge needs to be met – or else the hat will not be the correct finished size.

    I hope this helps!
    Rhondda

  17. I followed the 12-24 until R8 and somehow my circle is only 3.5 inches across. I’m using red heart and a 5.5mm hook. any ideas what im doing wrong? I’ve counted my stitches and I do have 51. thanks!

  18. Hi Rieta, I apologize for the confusion! The video player that pops off to the sidebar is a collection of all my available video tutorials. It may not be specific to the pattern you are viewing online. If the video sticks to the post and doesn’t ‘fly away’ as you scroll down the post then the video is for that specific pattern. Let me know if you have any questions I’d be happy to try to help, Rhondda

  19. Hi, I love this pattern and have watched your tutorial several times. In the printed directions it only says “HDC” but in the video you are also using “Double Crochets” . I’m confused. Am I looking at the wrong pattern? Thank you for your help. I really am eager to make this hat.

  20. Hi Sina! I’m so happy you like this pattern 🙂 Thank you for letting me know 🙂 Have a great week, Rhondda

  21. This is my go to pattern for a quick gift, or just because I love the pattern. I’ve done various finishes concluding a final round of reverse single crochet.

  22. Hi 🙂 You just keep going around. Mark the first stitch of the round with your stitch marker. Then when you get there again, remove the stitch marker and make your half double crochet. Place the stitch marker in the new half double crochet to mark your place and keep crocheting. The height of the stitches is not that much different between the 2 rounds so you can just keep going. If you are working taller stitches though (like dc or tr) you would need to join at the end of the round otherwise you would have a gaping hole at the end/beg of every round due to the difference in height of the stitches. Hope this helps, Rhondda

  23. but how are you starting each round without joining it or doing a turning chain/standing stitch? sorry probably missing something silly!

  24. Hi Asta,

    The invisible join is only used when we are going to cut the yarn and is used at the end of the hat to finish it. Or, if you are using different colors for each round and you would like a seamless color change, you would finish off at the end of every round and weave in those ends and then rejoin with a new color of yarn to begin the next round. It is more work but it will give you the most professional looking color changes. Hope this helps 🙂 Rhondda

  25. i’m struggling to understand how you use the invisible join unless you are cutting and joining after each round? If you’re not doing that how do you finish/start each round.

    Apologies for the caps, it won’t type in lowercase for some reason

  26. Trying to make adult medium beanie. Getting started how many chains to get started. How to start.

  27. Hi Anon 🙂 My tension / gauge is fine and the hats do fit because they are based on maths. Stitches per inch…a set number of stitches will make a very specific sized hat so long as you are able to reach the same gauge as indicated in the pattern.

    Perhaps you crochet your slip stitches tightly? They are often used for closing rounds and in that instance you would need to make them ‘smaller’ so they are somewhat hidden. For the hat the slip stitches are being used to create a decorative edge so you do need to crochet them at a relaxed tension to match the gauge for the rest of the hat. If you have difficulties making the final round to the same tension / gauge as the rest of the hat (i.e. they are tighter than the row previous – more stitches per inch) then please feel free to omit the final round, or use 1 round of single crochet stitches, or go up a hook size or too to match the gauge specified in the pattern 🙂 All the best, Rhondda

  28. I love this hat but I have one major criticism and that is that the final round of slip stitch simply makes the hat too tight, I had to use a hook size larger and keep my tension extra loose to avoid making the hat unbearably tight (It wouldn’t even go on my head, and once it did it hurt!) so I would suggest you write a suggestion to change your tension and hook in the pattern somewhere.

  29. This has to be my favorite of yours. It is my go to beanie. I have made several in varying color and stripes for many family members of all sizes.

  30. Hi Denise, As long as you can reach the gauge provided in the pattern, any yarn and hook combination you choose should work. The stitches (or spaces between the stitches) will look different depending on the type of yarn you use and this may change the overall finished look of the hat. The yarn I used is a bit less compact than most (the fibres seem to fill in the spaces between the stitches). Hope this helps, Rhondda

  31. Hi Rhondda,
    Just a question. Would a wool blend work for this pattern?

  32. Hi Denise, You are very welcome! I’m happy I was able to provide the pattern you were looking for 🙂 Have a lovely weekend, Rhondda

  33. Finally a simple beanie pattern! Most are just too complicated! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!!

  34. This is so simple and easy. I made several of these for my grandkids this month!

  35. Love this easy-to-follow pattern. Half-double is my favorite. I’ve made several of these beanies as they are so much fun to make and give away.

  36. Yay, a hat with a simple stitch! I think I’ve found one for my first hat to give my youngest grandson. Thanks!

  37. Hi Pam, I hope you Grandson is doing very well! It is very kind of you to knit and crochet items for the Preemie unit 🙂 My son was in the NICU (Newborn ICU here) because he was 5 plus weeks early and I know the other Parent’s (and us) loved and appreciated the generosity of the little hats and blankets we each received. All the best, Rhondda

  38. Hi, I live in England and I was so excited to see the preemie Beanie hat pattern, I have a grandson who weighed two pounds ten ounces at birth being only 30 weeks into my daughters pregnancy and I knit hats and little cardigans for the preemie unit where he was born. So now I have a lovely new pattern to make some crochet ones for these special babies, regards Pam x

  39. Thanks for including all sizes! It gets tiresome when great patterns are only in one size and leave you guessing on how to make for another size — thanks so much for your work and thoughtfulness. This is a great pattern and great stitch.

  40. Thank you Irene 🙂 No, I do not join the rounds or add chain stitches to reach the level of the next round. If you are doing any colour changes I would suggest finishing off your current colour and doing and invisible join before beginning the new colour – to give it a more professional look. For the solid colour though you need not join or add chain stitches 🙂 Have a lovely day! Rhondda

  41. Your cap looks so easy to make, but I’m also wondering if you join the rounds? and do you add any chains to start the next round? Thanks for sharing your patterns

  42. Lovely pattern. Thanks for taking the time to write all the sizes out. I knit and crochet and have been asked to share patterns that only exist in my head. I find it quite a bit of work to write them out so others can get the same results.

  43. Very welcome Terri 🙂 I’m so pleased you find the pattern easy to follow and teach!! All the best, Rhondda

  44. You have a calling for making easy to follow, easy to teach patterns ~ Thank You! I adore this Basic Beanie ~ it’s the groundwork for many types of embellishments!
    Blessings,
    Terri

  45. This is awesome ♥ Thank you for posting this pattern! I Love having all the sizes that I might need.

  46. Thank you so much for sharing the bennie sizes. I’ve always had trouble getting them right. God Bless.

  47. Hi Diane, The hats should be approximately 2 inches smaller in circumference than the head measurements listed for each size, when completed.

    Adult small hat circumference measures: 20 inches
    The hat has 60 sts and the gauge is 3 sts per inch; 60 stitches/3 stitches per inch gives you a finished circumference of 20 inches 🙂

    and You are very welcome for the instructions 🙂

    Hope this helps!
    Rhondda

  48. In regards to the sizes, is the circumference of pattern, is it head size? If so should the hat measure 1-2 inches less when completed? I’m crocheting adult small and it is measuring 22 in circumference. I really love your instructions and appreciate all the work you do. Thanks

  49. Thank you for leaving me such a lovely message Teresa 🙂 I’m very happy you like my hat patterns and are able to use them for such a generous purpose!! All the best, Rhondda

  50. I love your patterns for hats. I belong to a group that meets 2 times a week and we do hats, booties and blankets for charity. I have used your patterns numerous times. Thank you so much. Teresa