April Scarf of the Month Club Patterns – Sea Blues Cowl Pattern
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Here’s how it works.
Crochet this beautiful Sea Blues Cowl with 2 balls of light-weight yarn [3] and a 4 mm [G] hook. This easy-to-remember stitch pattern is worked in rounds so you can carry your yarn up the inner seam and still use multiple colors. The top and bottom edges are mirror images of one another so you can wear this cowl without worrying about which end is up. The edging is completely reversible so you can fold it over and still have a finished look. Simple, pretty and balanced, the Sea Blues Cowl makes a beautiful accessory and a lovely gift.
[disclaimer] The hook used in this post was given to me by Furls. The yarn used in this post was given to me by Red Heart Yarns. This post includes affiliate links. If you make a purchase after clicking on an affiliate link, I may receive a small commission for the referral at no additional expense to you.[/disclaimer]
Welcome to our April Scarf of the Month Club Event! This month we have 3 brand-new free crochet patterns for you to make. We hope you enjoy making these beautiful scarves and cowls. See you again next month!
April #Scarfofthemonthclub2018
Learn how you can add your project to Ravelry.
Here are your April Scarf of the Month Club Scarves!
Get Amy’s Scarf of the Month Pattern Here > Diamond Picot Lace Cowl
Get Kim’s Bonus Scarf of the Month Pattern Here > Wild Raspberries Scarf
Create your Project Page on Ravelry for the Sea Blues Cowl
Scarf of the Month Club 2018 – April
Sea Blues Cowl
Supplies
-
- Yarn: Cleckheaton at Red Heart 2.3oz. (65g) / 142 yds (130 m). 100% Super Fine Merino Wool. Light Weight [3] Yarn. Colors: Jade and Ice Green.
- Hook: 4 mm [G] Furls Streamline
- Finished Project Yardage: 2 balls. 284 yds / 260 m.
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)
Difficulty Level
Easy
Finished Size
Circumference: 28 inches
Height: 7.5 inches
Gauge
Worked in Pattern: *2 dc, ch 1**. 7 sets of *2 dc, ch 1** = 4 inches
Worked in Pattern rounds beginning with R3 (double crochet round) 13 rounds = 4 inches
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
ch – chain
ch1sp – chain 1 space
ch2sp – chain 2 space
dc – double crochet
R – row
RS – right side (pretty side)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
st/sts – stitch/stitches
WS – wrong side
WST – waistcoat stitch
* to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
() – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space
Helpful Tutorials
Working into the back bar of the chain stitch
Helpful Video Tutorials
You can watch the Invisible Join technique demonstrated in this video at this specific video frame: Invisible Join Video
Notes
- multiple of 3 + 1
- this project is worked in rounds
Sea Blues Cowl Pattern Instructions
This project is crocheted in continuous rounds after R1.
R1: (RS) With Color A: ch 145, 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook (sk 3 ch count as 1 dc). *Ch 1, sk 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 chs**. Rep from * to ** across. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [96 dc, 95 ch1sp, 1 sl st]
Bring the ends of R1 closer together to allow yourself to continue working in rounds.
I just left the edge as it was and seamed my edges at the end of my project but you can join the bottom chain edge now if you’d like. Or use a safety pin or stitch marker to hold the edges together.
R2: Working in the ch1sp around only. Sk all other sts unless indicated. With Color B: Ch 3, 1 sc in the first ch1sp. *Ch 2, 1 sc in the next ch1sp**. Rep from * to ** around and working the last sc in the sp beneath the sl st to join. Change your yarn color to Color A on the last yarn over the last sc. Sl st in the next ch2sp to join. [48 ch2sp, 96 sc, 1 sl st]
R3: Working in the ch2sp around only. Sk all other sts unless indicated. Continue with Color A: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in the same ch2sp. *Ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch2sp**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st to the top of the initial ch 3 to join. [96 dc, 95 ch1sp, 1 sl st]
R4 – R21: Rep R2-R3
R22: Working in the ch1sp around only. Sk all other sts unless indicated. With Color B: Ch 3, 1 sc in the first ch1sp. *Ch 2, 1 sc in the next ch1sp**. Rep from * to ** around and working the last sc in the sp beneath the sl st to join. Change your yarn color to Color A on the last yarn over the last sc. [48 ch2sp, 96 sc, 1 sl st]
R23: With Color A: Ch 2, 1 WST in the first sc. *Ch 2, 1 WST in the next sc**. Rep from * to ** around. Change your yarn color to Color B on the last yarn over the last WST. [48 ch2sp, 96 WST, 1 sl st]
R24: With Color B: Ch 2, 1 WST in the first sc. *Ch 2, 1 WST in the next sc**. Rep from * to ** around. Ch 2 and sl st to the initial WST to join (or use the invisible join technique to join instead of the sl st). Finish off and weave in ends. [48 ch2sp, 96 WST, 1 sl st]
If you would prefer to see it demonstrated in a video tutorial please see my video >HERE< I’ve linked it to start at the point where I demonstrate the technique.
Turn your project to work around the beginning chain edge. If you did not seam your edge together yet, please seam the edge closed now.
Finishing Edging
We are going to mimic the edge we just added in R22-24, by adding 3 more rounds to the initial chain row.
R1: Working into the ch1sp created by skipping the 1 chs in R1. Sk all other sts unless indicated. Join Color B yarn with 1 sc in the ch1sp after the first 2 dc of R1. *Ch 2, 1 sc in the next ch1sp**. Rep from * to ** around and working the last sc in space between the first and last set of dc where you seamed the edges together. Change your yarn color to Color A on the last yarn over the last sc. [48 ch2sp, 96 sc, 1 sl st]
R2: With Color A: Ch 2, 1 WST in the first sc. *Ch 2, 1 WST in the next sc**. Rep from * to ** around. Change your yarn color to Color B on the last yarn over the last WST. [48 ch2sp, 96 WST, 1 sl st]
R3: With Color B: Ch 2, 1 WST in the first sc. *Ch 2, 1 WST in the next sc**. Rep from * to ** around. Ch 2 and sl st to the initial WST to join (or use the invisible join technique to join instead of the sl st). Finish off and weave in ends. [48 ch2sp, 96 WST, 1 sl st]
If you would prefer to see it demonstrated in a video tutorial please see my video >HERE< I’ve linked it to start at the point where I demonstrate the technique.
Visit these posts to see and get those free patterns too:
Where To Share Your #SCARFOFTHEMONTHCLUB2018 Progress Online
- Ravelry – Create your project pages HERE
- Instagram and tag us! @thestitchinmommy and/or @oombawkadesign
- Facebook Crochet With Us CAL Group (ask questions and share here!)
- Share using #SCARFOFTHEMONTHCLUB2018 (so we can search online for it!)
If you would like to be notified when the new free scarf patterns are published, you can sign up for our FREE monthly newsletter >HERE<
#redheartyarns #cleckheaton #joycreators #freepattern #scarfofthemonthclub2018 #crochet
Hi Norma, This project is actually worked in rounds. We don’t turn at the end of the rows so it would not translate well into a shawl worked in rows. It would need to be finished off at the end of every row and then rejoined at the beginning of the next (without turning) which would give you 2 yarn ends for every row you work. If this is what you want to do 🙂 though you would need to chain a multiple of three stitches. So chain your shawl width as many chains as it takes and make sure it is divisible by 3. Then add 1 additional chain to start for your first row.
Hope this helps! Rhondda
Great Day, Can you alter the instruction to do a shawl. I love that stitch, but need help.