Create Your Own Adorable Amigurumi Doll – Free Crochet Pattern

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Say hello to Sally, your soon-to-be favorite amigurumi doll. Crafted with love and DK Weight Yarn [3], she comes with a wardrobe full of crochet patterns ready for you to crochet. From a chic dress to cute overalls, create your own amigurumi world with Sally at the heart of it. Get started today!

Create Your Own Adorable Amigurumi Doll – Free Crochet Pattern

PIN this pattern for later here

This amigurumi crochet doll pattern was designed as part of the 2020 Softie Crochet Along.

2020-CAL-Central-Softie-Crochet-Along

This Crochet Along is a Group CAL with #CALCentralCrochet on Facebook and Ravelry.

You can learn more about the CAL, the designs and the prizes in Marie’s Softie Crochet Along Post here.


[disclaimer]The Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Fill and Poly-Pellets used to create this pattern was given to me by Fairfield World.[/disclaimer]


Poly-Pellets are a 100% polypropylene weighted stuffing material that adds a bit of weight and form to your amigurumi projects.

I really loved the convenient “Easy Pour and Store” spout on the bag!

I’d never seen this type of bag before. The bag can be opened and closed, just like a reusable water bottle. The bottle-top feature made it extremely EASY to pour the Poly-Pellets into the body of the doll. Plus, now I can store the bag anywhere because the lid twists back and keeps the pellets inside and the bag stands up by itself! No more spills!

Poly-Pellets Fairfield World Oombawka Design Crochet

Why do I like using Poly-Pellets?

I like how it makes the amigurumi feel more solid. I find my toys are less prone to losing their shape with playtime and pressure. I also like the extra weight it gives to toys. I like to use a combination of the Poly-Pellets and Fiber Fill in my toys.

When I make toys using yarns that are heavier weight and there are small spaces between the stitches I put the pellets into a nylon, or sock before placing them inside my project. This keeps them from slipping out from between the stitches.

Amigurumi Sally Crochet Doll Pattern

Make your own amigurumi doll with this free crochet pattern! Meet Sally, a charming 10-inch doll crocheted with DK Weight Yarn and accompanied by a dress, shoes, t-shirt, and overalls. Easy to follow with step-by-step images.

For an Ad-Free PDF copy please visit Ravelry.

Free Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Supplies

  • Yarn:  CotLin Yarn (wecrochet) 50 g and 123 yds. 70% Tanguis Cotton, 30% Linen. DK Weight Yarn [3]. Machine wash and tumble dry low.
  • Colors: 1 skein in each Linen (for the doll), Whisker (for the top), Ash (for the overalls and shoes), Cashew (for the hair), Raindrop (for the dress) and Swan (for the hem on the dress). For the lips and the tiny tied bow I used scraps of Knit Picks Comfy Sport Yarn in Flamingo but you can substitute or use embroidery thread.
  • Hook: Doll: 2.75 mm (C); Clothing (except dress): 5 mm (H) and Dress: 4 mm (G)
  • Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker, Fairfield Poly-Fil, Fairfield Poly-Pellets, Safety Eyes 12 mm (X2), white felt for under the eyes (optional), small snap fasteners (11 mm) to use for closures, sewing needle and thread

Difficulty Level

  • Easy-Intermediate

Finished Size

  • Doll height 10 inches tall X 4 inches wide (flat)

Gauge

  • Doll: 2.75 mm [C] hook: approximately 5 rows per inch and 6 sts per 1 inch
  • Clothes (except dress): 5 mm [H] hook: approximately 10 rows in 2 inches and 7 sc in 2 inches
  • Dress: 4 mm [G] hook: 5 rows per inch and 4 sc per inch

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

  • beg – beginning
  • BL – back loop
  • ch – chain
  • ch4sp – chain 1 space
  • DMR – double magic ring (video tutorial below)
  • R – row or round
  • rem – remaining
  • rep – repeat
  • sc –  single crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
  • sk – skip
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • st/sts – stitch/stitches
  • WS –  wrong side (back of project)
  • * to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain multiple instructions.
  • [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
  • () – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space

Special Stitch

For amigurimi projects I work the sc2tog under the flo of the stitches, like this:

sc2tog

Helpful Tutorials

Helpful Video Tutorials

Notes:

  • Do not slip stitch to join (unless specified).
  • Color A: Linen (Doll body, head, hand/arm and foot/leg)
  • Color B: Whisker (Doll Top)
  • Color C: Ash (Doll Overalls and Doll Shoes)
  • Color D: Raindrop (Doll Dress)
  • Color E: Cashew (Doll Hair)
Make your own amigurumi doll with this free crochet pattern! Meet Sally, a charming 10-inch doll crocheted with DK Weight Yarn and accompanied by a dress, shoes, t-shirt, and overalls. Easy to follow with step-by-step images.

Amigurumi Sally Free Crochet Doll Pattern

The doll body and the doll head are crocheted in continuous rounds using your 2.75 mm [C] hook; please use a stitch marker to mark your place.

Using your 2.75 mm (C) hook (or size required for gauge):

Crochet Doll Body

R1: With Color A (Linen): ch 12, sk the first ch, 2 sc in the next ch, 1 sc in each of the next 9 chs, 3 sc in the last ch, rotate your work to crochet along the bottom of the foundation chain. Sk the base of the last ch (that has 3 sc in it already), 1 sc in each of the next 9 chs and 1 sc in the initial sk ch. [24 sc]

Doll Body R1

R2: 3 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts. [31 sc]

Doll Body R2

R3: 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts. [35 sc]

Doll Body R3

R4: 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 33 sts. [36 sc]

Doll Body R4

R5-R11: 1 sc in each st around. [36 sc]

R12: 1 sc in the first st, (1 sc in the next st, sc2tog) 3 times, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, (sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 3 times, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [30]

R13: 1 sc in each st around. [30]

R14: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, (sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, (sc2tog, 1 sc) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts. [26]

R15: 1 sc in each st around. [26]

R16: 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, (sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, (sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. [20]

R17: 1 sc in each st around. [20]

R18: (1 sc in the next st, sc2tog) 6 times; sc2tog. [13]

R19: 1 sc in each st around. Finish off, leaving an 8-10 inch tail of yarn for assembly. [13]

Doll Body Done

Crochet Doll Head

R1: With Color A (Linen): ch 9, sk the first ch, 3 sc in the next ch, 1 sc in each of the next 6 chs, 3 sc in the last ch, rotate your work to crochet along the bottom of the foundation chain. Sk the base of the last ch (that has 3 sc in it already), 1 sc in each of the next 6 chs, plus 1 sc in the initial sk ch. [19]

R2: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around to the last st. 1 sc in the last st. [28]

DOLL HEAD - R2 1

R3-R10: 1 sc in each st around. [28]

DOLL HEAD R3

R11: (Sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 9 times, 1 sc in the last st. [19]

R12: (Sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 6 times, 1 sc in the last st. Finish off, leaving an 8-10 inch tail of yarn for assembly. [13]

Crochet Doll Hand/Arm (make 2)

The hand/arm is crocheted in one piece in continuous rounds; beginning at the hand and working up the arm to the shoulder.

R1: With Color A (Linen): DMR: 6 sc. [6 sc]

R2: 2 sc in each around. [12 sc]

R3-R4: 1 sc in each st around. [12 sc]

R5: Sc2tog around. [6 sc]

R6-R18: 1 sc in each st around. [6 sc]

Do not stuff the hands. 

Flatten the arm and work through the 3 stitches of both layers. We will be working in ROWS from this point to the end of R22.

R19: Ch 1, 1 sc through both layers across. [3 sc]

R20-R22: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Finish off leaving a long tail for assembly. [3 sc]

DOLL ARM 1

Crochet Doll Foot/Leg (make 2)

The doll foot/leg is crocheted in continuous rounds, in one piece from the toe to the hip.

R1: With Color A (Linen): DMR: 8 sc. [8 sc]

R2: *2 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** twice. [12 sc]

R3: 1 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [16 sc]

R4: (Sc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [12 sc]

R5: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [10 sc]

R6: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [8 sc]

R7-R13: 1 sc in each st around. [8 sc]

R14: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [12 sc]

R15-R22: 1 sc in each st around. [12 sc]

R23: 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, ch 1.

Stuff the foot and leg with Poly-Fil.

DOLL LEG POLY-FILL

Flatten the leg and continue working through both layers of R23, there will be 6 stitches when flattened. We will be working in ROWS from this point to the end of R26.

Work 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [6 sc]

DOLL LEG FLATTEN

R24-R26: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Finish off leaving a long tail for assembly. [6 sc]

Repeat for second leg.

Crochet Doll Clothing

Sall Doll Top

Crochet Doll Top

Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: With Color B (Whisker): ch 34, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [33]

R2: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [31 sc]

R3: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 15 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [29 sc]

R4: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 13 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [27 sc]

R5: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [25 sc]

R6: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [23 sc]

R7: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [21 sc]

R8: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [19 sc]

R9: 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts. [17 sc]

R10-R11: 1 sc in each st around. [17 sc]

R12: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. [11 sc, 2 ch4sp]

R13: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in the BL of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in the BL of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. [19 sc]

Doll Top Before Edging

Edging for the Top (worked on all 4 sides): Ch 1, 1 sc in each row end down the side edge to the corner (12 sc), ch 1 at the corner and rotate to work along the foundation chain, work 33 sc across, ch 1 at the corner and rotate to work up the side edge (12 sc), ch 1 at the corner and work across the top of R13. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [76 sc, 4 ch1sp]

Top with Edging

Attach a snap to the top of the shirt to keep it closed.

Doll Top with Snap

Crochet Doll Sleeves

Join your yarn in the sleeve opening in one loop of a stitch. 

R1: With Color B (Whisker): work 10 sc evenly around the sleeve opening. [10 sc]

R2-R5: 1 sc in each st around. [10 sc]

R6: 1 sl st in each st around. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [10 sl st]

Repeat R1-R6, for the second sleeve.

Crochet Doll Overalls 

We begin by making a pair of pants before adding the front bib and straps. The pants are worked in rows before being seamed into shape.

Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: With Color C (Ash): ch 29, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [28 sc]

R2-R10: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [28 sc]

R11: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 24 sc, sc2tog. [26 sc]

R12: 1 sc in each of the first 13 sts, leave remaining sts unworked, ch 1, turn. [13 sc]

R13-R24: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Finish off leaving a long tail for seaming.  [13 sc]

Second Pant Leg

Rejoin yarn in the first unworked st of R12, to work the second pant leg.

Join for Pant Leg

R12-R24: With Color C (Ash): 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Finish off leaving a long tail (6-8 inches) for seaming. [13 sc]

Fold the pants like this:

Next, we need to seam the pants. Begin at the ankle and seam up the inside of the pant leg seam up to the top of each pant leg. Then, seam up the backside of the pants to the waist.

Turn the pants over and place on a flat surface. Find the center-most stitch in the middle front of the pants and mark this stitch with a stitch marker.

Stitch markers for bib

Count over 4 sts and place a second stitch marker. Count over 4 sts to the opposite side of the middle stitch marker and place the third stitch marker.

These 9 stitches will be used to create the front of the overalls.

Front of the Overalls

Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):

Join your yarn in the first stitch marked with the stitch marker, with the front of the pants facing you.

Overalls Bib Stitches

R1: With Color C (Ash): 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, ch 1, turn. [9 sc]

R2: 1 sc in each st across, do not ch 1, turn. [9 sc]

R3: Sk the first st, 1 sc in each st across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. [7 sc]

R4: 1 sc in each st across, do not ch 1, turn. [7 sc]

R5: Sk the first st, 1 sc in each st across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn, ch 1, turn. [5 sc]

Next we create the first overall strap.

R6: 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, leave rem sts unworked, ch 1, turn. [2 sc]

R7-R18: 1 sc in each st across, finish off and weave in end. [2 sc]

Second Overall Strap

Rejoin yarn in 8th st of R6. 

Overall Strap 1

R1: With Color C (Ash): 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 1, turn. [2 sc]

R2-R12: 1 sc in each st across, finish off and weave in ends. [2 sc]

Overalls Second Strap

Work sc sts evenly around the upper band of the pants and the overall straps. Finish off and weave in ends. You can sew the overall straps to the pants at the back, or add snaps to allow them to be opened and closed.

Front Overall Pocket

Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):

The Front Overall Pocket is crocheted in rows.

Overall Pocket

R1: With Color C (Ash): Ch 5, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each rem st across, ch 1, turn.  [4 sc]

R2-R3: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. 

Rotate your work to single crochet around the 3 sides of the pocket; working 1 sc in each row end and chaining 1 in each of the corners. Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn to seam to the pants. Whipstitch the pocket to the pants on the 2 side edges and the bottom. See image below:

Overalls Pocket on

Crochet Doll Shoes (make 2)

Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: With Color C (Ash): DMR: 8 sc. [8 sc]

R2: *2 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** twice. [12 sc]

R3: 1 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [16 sc]

R4: (Sc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [12 sc]

R5: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [10 sc]

R6: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [8 sc]

R7: 1 sc in each st around. Finish off and weave in the ends. [8 sc]

Repeat R1-R7 for the second shoe.

Amigurumi Sally Doll Crochet Pattern Sally

Crochet Doll Dress

Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):

The Doll Dress is crocheted in rows before being seamed into shape.

R1: With Color D (Raindrop): ch 40, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each st across. [39]

R2: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 23 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [37 sc] 

R3: 1 sc in each st across. [37 sc]

R4: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 21 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [35 sc]

R5: 1 sc in each st across. [35 sc]

R6: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 19 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [33 sc]

R7: 1 sc in each st across. [33 sc]

R8: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [31 sc]

R9: 1 sc in each st across. [31 sc]

R10: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 15 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [29 sc]

R11: 1 sc in each st across. [29 sc]

R12: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 13 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [27 sc]

R13: 1 sc in each st across. [27 sc]

R14: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [25 sc]

R15: 1 sc in each st across. [25 sc]

R16: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [23 sc]

R17: 1 sc in each st across. [23 sc]

R18: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [21 sc]

R19-R21: 1 sc in each st across. [21 sc]

R22: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in the last 3 sts. [15 sc, 2 ch4sp]

R23: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in the front loop of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 1 sc in the front loop of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. [23 sc]

Next, using the yarn end you left from R1, seam up the back of the dress; leaving the last 7 rows open to create the neckline. Finish off and weave in the yarn end. 

Dress Back Seam

We will now work around the neckline to create a basic finished edge. Work sc sts evenly around the neckline. Finish off and weave in any remaining ends. You can add a snap closure if you wish, or leave it open.

Dress Sleeves

Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):

Join your yarn in the sleeve opening in one loop of a stitch. 

R1: With Color D (Raindrop): work 10 sc evenly around the sleeve opening. [10 sc]

R2-R3: 1 sc in each st around. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [10 sc]

Repeat R1-R3, for the second sleeve. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any remaining ends.

Doll Dress with Sleeves

Bottom Edging for the Dress

Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: With Color E (Whisker): join your yarn in the st at the back seam of the dress with a slip stitch. Sk 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, sk 1 st. *1 sl st in the next st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, sk 1 st**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st in the first sl st of the round to join. Finish off and weave in end.

You can either add a snap closure or leave the dress as it is for the neckline. Here are 2 photo examples:

Crochet Doll Finishing Instructions

Crochet Doll Body

Fill the body with Poly Pellets and then add a little Poly-fil to the top to hold them in place (if you are having trouble keeping them from spilling out). Sally is approximately 8-inches around at her belly.

BODY - Assembly

Using your remaining yarn end, weave it in and out through one loop of each remaining stitch and pull to cinch and close the top of the body. The technique used is the same as the one I use to close my mittens and slouch hats. If you need help here is my tutorial: Closing Method

Doll Arms

Whipstitch Sally’s 2 arms together along the end of each arm. Place Sally’s joined arms on top of the body and sew them to the body.

See how the third image demonstrates a straight seam? Just down the center of the joined arms?

Crochet Doll Head

To finish Sally’s head we need to place and position the eyes. If you want your eyes in the same position as my doll’s eyes please use these photos to assist you.

EYES - Assembly Placement without Felt
EYES – Assembly Placement without Felt Backing

I placed a piece of white craft felt behind each of the eyes and just cut them to shape with my sharp embroidery scissors. This is optional.

Once you have placed your eyes where you like them, secure the safety eyes securely.

Now stuff the head with Poly-Fil.

EYES - Assembly Placement
EYES – Assembly Placement with White Felt Backing

Using the yarn end you left on her head (neck), sew the head to the doll’s body; the arms will be sandwiched in between the head and body.

R1 Doll

Crochet Doll Legs

Sew the two legs to the bottom of the body of the doll. Use this photo to guide you.

Crochet Doll Face (optional nose stitch and lips)

If you are adding the nose, hand sew it on the face using the following image for positioning. I used the same color of yarn (Color A: Linen) as I used for the rest of the doll.

If you are adding the mouth to the doll I used a light pink yarn. Please use the following image for positioning. You can also use embroidery thread.

Crochet Doll Hair

Sally’s doll hair is crocheted onto the doll’s head. I worked around 1 post of each stitch and for the most part, followed the spiral at the top of her head and then the rows down the back and sides of her head. The posts were located between the rows of stitches. See the following image for an idea of where to look on the doll:

I worked (1 sc, ch 12, 1 sc) to create each hair loop for the back of the head. For the top of the head at the front I worked (1 sc, ch 6, 1 sc) because I wanted it to be shorter at the top and front.

You can vary the number of chains you make to create shorter (less than 6 chains) or longer hair (more than 12 chains). This will let you make Sally into Sam (which is why I provided both a dress and overalls for you with this pattern). 

I worked 1 sc for every post stitch of the head and I always tried to work the st beside the previous st I’d made to make the loops stay close together.

If you make Sally, or Sam, I’d love to see your photos! If you are sharing on Instagram, tag your photos with #sallycrochetdoll or #samcrochetdoll and @oombawkadesigncrochet

#CALCentralCrochet # wecrochetofficial #wecrochet #fairfieldworld #2020CAL #amigurumi #crochetdoll #crochettoy #freepattern #instacrochet #crochetersofig #crochetersofinstagram

Make your own amigurumi doll with this free crochet pattern! Meet Sally, a charming 10-inch doll crocheted with DK Weight Yarn and accompanied by a dress, shoes, t-shirt, and overalls. Easy to follow with step-by-step images.

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Meet Sally! 👋 This adorable amigurumi doll is just waiting to be brought to life by you! 🧶 With our free crochet pattern you won’t just get a friend, but a fashionista with her own dress, shoes, tee, and overalls. Grab your DK Weight Yarn [3] and let the fun begin! #AmigurumiLove 💖

Make your own amigurumi doll with this free crochet pattern! Meet Sally, a charming 10-inch doll crocheted with DK Weight Yarn and accompanied by a dress, shoes, t-shirt, and overalls. Easy to follow with step-by-step images.

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2 Comments

  1. This Sally Doll is so stinkin cute! I can’t wait to make her. Thank you for sharing!