Amigurumi Sally Crochet Doll Free Pattern
Welcome Crocheters! Today I am excited to share with you my newest design, my Amigurumi Sally Crochet Doll Pattern.
I have included patterns for a simple dress and for overalls and a t-shirt – so if you would like to make Sally into Sam instead – you can! Or if Sally wants to wear pants that’s ok too!
PIN this pattern for later here
Remember there is a PrintFriendly button at the top of my post. You can click it and then remove the images to make this a written post only. You can also change the size of the front and save it as a PDF, or print it if you prefer.
This amigurumi crochet doll pattern was designed as part of the 2020 Softie Crochet Along.
This Crochet Along is a Group CAL with #CALCentralCrochet on Facebook and Ravelry.
Along with a new pattern every Monday, from March 30 to June 1st (10 in total), there are also giveaway prizes!
You can learn more about the CAL, the designs and the prizes (and how to enter!) in Marie’s Softie Crochet Along Post here.
[disclaimer]The Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber Fill and Poly-Pellets used to create this pattern was given to me by Fairfield World.[/disclaimer]
Poly-Pellets are a 100% polypropylene weighted stuffing material that adds a bit of weight and form to your amigurumi projects.
I really loved the convenient “Easy Pour and Store” spout on the bag!
I’d never seen this type of bag before. The bag can be opened and closed, just like a reusable water bottle. The bottle-top feature made it extremely EASY to pour the Poly-Pellets into the body of the doll. Plus, now I can store the bag anywhere because the lid twists back and keeps the pellets inside and the bag stands up by itself! No more spills!
Why do I like using Poly-Pellets?
I like how it makes the amigurumi feel more solid. I find my toys are less prone to losing their shape with playtime and pressure. I also like the extra weight it gives to toys. I like to use a combination of the Poly-Pellets and Fiber Fill in my toys.
When I make toys using yarns that are heavier weight and there are small spaces between the stitches I put the pellets into a nylon, or sock before placing them inside my project. This keeps them from slipping out from between the stitches.
Amigurumi Sally Crochet Doll Pattern
Access the full written pattern in the blog post below. (scroll down)
For an Ad-Free PDF copy please visit Ravelry.
To celebrate the release of this brand new design I am offering 50% off coupon for the Ad-Free PDF on Ravelry.
Don’t forget to enter the Coupon Code
SALLYDOLL
to get 50% OFF the Ad-Free PDF
This coupon is valid until May 12, 2020 at 11:59 pm ET.
Link to Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/redeem/oombawka-design?code=SALLYDOLL
Double check your total is showing free $0.00 owing
and click “checkout now“.
Refunds will not be given for improperly applied or forgotten coupons.
If you have trouble making the coupon code work please contact me before you pay so I can help!
Thanks! Rhondda
Supplies
- Yarn: CotLin Yarn (wecrochet) 50 g and 123 yds. 70% Tanguis Cotton, 30% Linen. DK Weight Yarn [3]. Machine wash and tumble dry low.
- Colors: 1 skein in each Linen (for the doll), Whisker (for the top), Ash (for the overalls and shoes), Cashew (for the hair), Raindrop (for the dress) and Swan (for the hem on the dress). For the lips and the tiny tied bow I used scraps of Knit Picks Comfy Sport Yarn in Flamingo but you can substitute or use embroidery thread.
- Hook: Doll: 2.75 mm (C); Clothing (except dress): 5 mm (H) and Dress: 4 mm (G)
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker, Fairfield Poly-Fil, Fairfield Poly-Pellets, Safety Eyes 12 mm (X2), white felt for under the eyes (optional), small snap fasteners (11 mm) to use for closures, sewing needle and thread
Difficulty Level
Easy-Intermediate
Finished Size
Doll height 10 inches tall X 4 inches wide (flat)
Gauge
Doll: 2.75 mm [C] hook: approximately 5 rows per inch and 6 sts per 1 inch
Clothes (except dress): 5 mm [H] hook: approximately 10 rows in 2 inches and 7 sc in 2 inches
Dress: 4 mm [G] hook: 5 rows per inch and 4 sc per inch
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.
Abbreviations
US Terminology used
beg – beginning
BL – back loop
ch – chain
ch4sp – chain 1 space
DMR – double magic ring (video tutorial below)
R – row or round
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st/sts – stitch/stitches
WS – wrong side (back of project)
* to **– Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain multiple instructions.
[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
() – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space
Special Stitch
For amigurimi projects I work the sc2tog under the flo of the stitches, like this:
sc2tog
Insert hook under fl of next st Yarn over Pull through 2 loops Yarn over Pull through rem 2 loops
Helpful Tutorials
Helpful Video Tutorials
Double Magic Ring Tutorial (DMR)
Notes:
- Do not slip stitch to join (unless specified).
- Color A: Linen (Doll body, head, hand/arm and foot/leg)
- Color B: Whisker (Doll Top)
- Color C: Ash (Doll Overalls and Doll Shoes)
- Color D: Raindrop (Doll Dress)
- Color E: Cashew (Doll Hair)
Amigurumi Sally Free Crochet Doll Pattern
The doll body and the doll head are crocheted in continuous rounds using your 2.75 mm [C] hook; please use a stitch marker to mark your place.
Using your 2.75 mm (C) hook (or size required for gauge):
Crochet Doll Body
R1: With Color A (Linen): ch 12, sk the first ch, 2 sc in the next ch, 1 sc in each of the next 9 chs, 3 sc in the last ch, rotate your work to crochet along the bottom of the foundation chain. Sk the base of the last ch (that has 3 sc in it already), 1 sc in each of the next 9 chs and 1 sc in the initial sk ch. [24 sc]
R2: 3 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts. [31 sc]
R3: 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts. [35 sc]
R4: 1 sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 33 sts. [36 sc]
R5-R11: 1 sc in each st around. [36 sc]
R12: 1 sc in the first st, (1 sc in the next st, sc2tog) 3 times, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, (sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 3 times, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [30]
R13: 1 sc in each st around. [30]
R14: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, (sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, (sc2tog, 1 sc) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts. [26]
R15: 1 sc in each st around. [26]
R16: 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, (sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, (sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog. [20]
R17: 1 sc in each st around. [20]
R18: (1 sc in the next st, sc2tog) 6 times; sc2tog. [13]
R19: 1 sc in each st around. Finish off, leaving an 8-10 inch tail of yarn for assembly. [13]
Crochet Doll Head
R1: With Color A (Linen): ch 9, sk the first ch, 3 sc in the next ch, 1 sc in each of the next 6 chs, 3 sc in the last ch, rotate your work to crochet along the bottom of the foundation chain. Sk the base of the last ch (that has 3 sc in it already), 1 sc in each of the next 6 chs, plus 1 sc in the initial sk ch. [19]
R2: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around to the last st. 1 sc in the last st. [28]
R3-R10: 1 sc in each st around. [28]
R11: (Sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 9 times, 1 sc in the last st. [19]
R12: (Sc2tog, 1 sc in the next st) 6 times, 1 sc in the last st. Finish off, leaving an 8-10 inch tail of yarn for assembly. [13]
Crochet Doll Hand/Arm (make 2)
The hand/arm is crocheted in one piece in continuous rounds; beginning at the hand and working up the arm to the shoulder.
R1: With Color A (Linen): DMR: 6 sc. [6 sc]
R2: 2 sc in each around. [12 sc]
R3-R4: 1 sc in each st around. [12 sc]
R5: Sc2tog around. [6 sc]
R6-R18: 1 sc in each st around. [6 sc]
Do not stuff the hands.
Flatten the arm and work through the 3 stitches of both layers. We will be working in ROWS from this point to the end of R22.
R19: Ch 1, 1 sc through both layers across. [3 sc]
R20-R22: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Finish off leaving a long tail for assembly. [3 sc]
Crochet Doll Foot/Leg (make 2)
The doll foot/leg is crocheted in continuous rounds, in one piece from the toe to the hip.
R1: With Color A (Linen): DMR: 8 sc. [8 sc]
R2: *2 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** twice. [12 sc]
R3: 1 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [16 sc]
R4: (Sc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [12 sc]
R5: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [10 sc]
R6: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [8 sc]
R7-R13: 1 sc in each st around. [8 sc]
R14: *2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. [12 sc]
R15-R22: 1 sc in each st around. [12 sc]
R23: 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, ch 1.
Stuff the foot and leg with Poly-Fil.
Flatten the leg and continue working through both layers of R23, there will be 6 stitches when flattened. We will be working in ROWS from this point to the end of R26.
Work 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [6 sc]
R24-R26: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Finish off leaving a long tail for assembly. [6 sc]
Repeat for second leg.
Crochet Doll Clothing
Crochet Doll Top
Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):
R1: With Color B (Whisker): ch 34, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [33]
R2: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [31 sc]
R3: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 15 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [29 sc]
R4: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 13 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [27 sc]
R5: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [25 sc]
R6: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [23 sc]
R7: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [21 sc]
R8: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [19 sc]
R9: 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts. [17 sc]
R10-R11: 1 sc in each st around. [17 sc]
R12: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. [11 sc, 2 ch4sp]
R13: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in the BL of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 1 sc in the BL of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. [19 sc]
Edging for the Top (worked on all 4 sides): Ch 1, 1 sc in each row end down the side edge to the corner (12 sc), ch 1 at the corner and rotate to work along the foundation chain, work 33 sc across, ch 1 at the corner and rotate to work up the side edge (12 sc), ch 1 at the corner and work across the top of R13. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [76 sc, 4 ch1sp]
Attach a snap to the top of the shirt to keep it closed.
Crochet Doll Sleeves
Join your yarn in the sleeve opening in one loop of a stitch.
R1: With Color B (Whisker): work 10 sc evenly around the sleeve opening. [10 sc]
R2-R5: 1 sc in each st around. [10 sc]
R6: 1 sl st in each st around. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [10 sl st]
Repeat R1-R6, for the second sleeve.
Crochet Doll Overalls
We begin by making a pair of pants before adding the front bib and straps. The pants are worked in rows before being seamed into shape.
Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):
R1: With Color C (Ash): ch 29, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [28 sc]
R2-R10: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. [28 sc]
R11: Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 24 sc, sc2tog. [26 sc]
R12: 1 sc in each of the first 13 sts, leave remaining sts unworked, ch 1, turn. [13 sc]
R13-R24: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Finish off leaving a long tail for seaming. [13 sc]
Second Pant Leg
Rejoin yarn in the first unworked st of R12, to work the second pant leg.
R12-R24: With Color C (Ash): 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Finish off leaving a long tail (6-8 inches) for seaming. [13 sc]
Fold the pants like this:
Next, we need to seam the pants. Begin at the ankle and seam up the inside of the pant leg seam up to the top of each pant leg. Then, seam up the backside of the pants to the waist.
Turn the pants over and place on a flat surface. Find the center-most stitch in the middle front of the pants and mark this stitch with a stitch marker.
Count over 4 sts and place a second stitch marker. Count over 4 sts to the opposite side of the middle stitch marker and place the third stitch marker.
These 9 stitches will be used to create the front of the overalls.
Front of the Overalls
Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):
Join your yarn in the first stitch marked with the stitch marker, with the front of the pants facing you.
R1: With Color C (Ash): 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, ch 1, turn. [9 sc]
R2: 1 sc in each st across, do not ch 1, turn. [9 sc]
R3: Sk the first st, 1 sc in each st across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. [7 sc]
R4: 1 sc in each st across, do not ch 1, turn. [7 sc]
R5: Sk the first st, 1 sc in each st across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn, ch 1, turn. [5 sc]
Next we create the first overall strap.
R6: 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, leave rem sts unworked, ch 1, turn. [2 sc]
R7-R18: 1 sc in each st across, finish off and weave in end. [2 sc]
Second Overall Strap
Rejoin yarn in 8th st of R6.
R1: With Color C (Ash): 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 1, turn. [2 sc]
R2-R12: 1 sc in each st across, finish off and weave in ends. [2 sc]
Work sc sts evenly around the upper band of the pants and the overall straps. Finish off and weave in ends. You can sew the overall straps to the pants at the back, or add snaps to allow them to be opened and closed.
Front Overall Pocket
Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):
The Front Overall Pocket is crocheted in rows.
R1: With Color C (Ash): Ch 5, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each rem st across, ch 1, turn. [4 sc]
R2-R3: 1 sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.
Rotate your work to single crochet around the 3 sides of the pocket; working 1 sc in each row end and chaining 1 in each of the corners. Finish off leaving a long tail of yarn to seam to the pants. Whipstitch the pocket to the pants on the 2 side edges and the bottom. See image below:
Crochet Doll Shoes (make 2)
Using your 5 mm (H) hook (or size required for gauge):
R1: With Color C (Ash): DMR: 8 sc. [8 sc]
R2: *2 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** twice. [12 sc]
R3: 1 sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts. [16 sc]
R4: (Sc2tog) 4 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [12 sc]
R5: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [10 sc]
R6: (Sc2tog) 2 times, 1 sc in each rem st around. [8 sc]
R7: 1 sc in each st around. Finish off and weave in the ends. [8 sc]
Repeat R1-R7 for the second shoe.
Crochet Doll Dress
Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):
The Doll Dress is crocheted in rows before being seamed into shape.
R1: With Color D (Raindrop): ch 40, sk the first ch, 1 sc in each st across. [39]
R2: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 23 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [37 sc]
R3: 1 sc in each st across. [37 sc]
R4: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 21 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [35 sc]
R5: 1 sc in each st across. [35 sc]
R6: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 19 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [33 sc]
R7: 1 sc in each st across. [33 sc]
R8: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [31 sc]
R9: 1 sc in each st across. [31 sc]
R10: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 15 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [29 sc]
R11: 1 sc in each st across. [29 sc]
R12: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 13 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [27 sc]
R13: 1 sc in each st across. [27 sc]
R14: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [25 sc]
R15: 1 sc in each st across. [25 sc]
R16: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [23 sc]
R17: 1 sc in each st across. [23 sc]
R18: 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts. [21 sc]
R19-R21: 1 sc in each st across. [21 sc]
R22: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, ch 4, sk the next 3 sts, 1 sc in the last 3 sts. [15 sc, 2 ch4sp]
R23: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in the front loop of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, 1 sc in the front loop of each of the next 4 chs, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts. [23 sc]
Next, using the yarn end you left from R1, seam up the back of the dress; leaving the last 7 rows open to create the neckline. Finish off and weave in the yarn end.
We will now work around the neckline to create a basic finished edge. Work sc sts evenly around the neckline. Finish off and weave in any remaining ends. You can add a snap closure if you wish, or leave it open.
Dress Sleeves
Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):
Join your yarn in the sleeve opening in one loop of a stitch.
R1: With Color D (Raindrop): work 10 sc evenly around the sleeve opening. [10 sc]
R2-R3: 1 sc in each st around. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends. [10 sc]
Repeat R1-R3, for the second sleeve. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any remaining ends.
Bottom Edging for the Dress
Using your 4 mm (G) hook (or size required for gauge):
R1: With Color E (Whisker): join your yarn in the st at the back seam of the dress with a slip stitch. Sk 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, sk 1 st. *1 sl st in the next st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, sk 1 st**. Rep from * to ** around. Sl st in the first sl st of the round to join. Finish off and weave in end.
You can either add a snap closure or leave the dress as it is for the neckline. Here are 2 photo examples:
Crochet Doll Finishing Instructions
Crochet Doll Body
Fill the body with Poly Pellets and then add a little Poly-fil to the top to hold them in place (if you are having trouble keeping them from spilling out). Sally is approximately 8-inches around at her belly.
Using your remaining yarn end, weave it in and out through one loop of each remaining stitch and pull to cinch and close the top of the body. The technique used is the same as the one I use to close my mittens and slouch hats. If you need help here is my tutorial: Closing Method
Doll Arms
Whipstitch Sally’s 2 arms together along the end of each arm. Place Sally’s joined arms on top of the body and sew them to the body.
See how the third image demonstrates a straight seam? Just down the center of the joined arms?
Crochet Doll Head
To finish Sally’s head we need to place and position the eyes. If you want your eyes in the same position as my doll’s eyes please use these photos to assist you.
I placed a piece of white craft felt behind each of the eyes and just cut them to shape with my sharp embroidery scissors. This is optional.
Step 2 Step 3
Once you have placed your eyes where you like them, secure the safety eyes securely.
Now stuff the head with Poly-Fil.
Using the yarn end you left on her head (neck), sew the head to the doll’s body; the arms will be sandwiched in between the head and body.
Crochet Doll Legs
Sew the two legs to the bottom of the body of the doll. Use this photo to guide you.
Crochet Doll Face (optional nose stitch and lips)
If you are adding the nose, hand sew it on the face using the following image for positioning. I used the same color of yarn (Color A: Linen) as I used for the rest of the doll.
If you are adding the mouth to the doll I used a light pink yarn. Please use the following image for positioning. You can also use embroidery thread.
Crochet Doll Hair
Sally’s doll hair is crocheted onto the doll’s head. I worked around 1 post of each stitch and for the most part, followed the spiral at the top of her head and then the rows down the back and sides of her head. The posts were located between the rows of stitches. See the following image for an idea of where to look on the doll:
I worked (1 sc, ch 12, 1 sc) to create each hair loop for the back of the head. For the top of the head at the front I worked (1 sc, ch 6, 1 sc) because I wanted it to be shorter at the top and front.
You can vary the number of chains you make to create shorter (less than 6 chains) or longer hair (more than 12 chains). This will let you make Sally into Sam (which is why I provided both a dress and overalls for you with this pattern).
I worked 1 sc for every post stitch of the head and I always tried to work the st beside the previous st I’d made to make the loops stay close together.
If you make Sally, or Sam, I’d love to see your photos! If you are sharing on Instagram, tag your photos with #sallycrochetdoll or #samcrochetdoll and @oombawkadesigncrochet
#CALCentralCrochet # wecrochetofficial #wecrochet #fairfieldworld #2020CAL #amigurumi #crochetdoll #crochettoy #freepattern #instacrochet #crochetersofig #crochetersofinstagram
