Ametrine Hooded Pocket Scarf Pattern

The Ametrine Hooded Pocket Scarf Pattern is my October Scarf of the Month Club CAL Pattern. This beginner-friendly pocket scarf is crocheted with yarn I received from Yarnspirations.

You will need approximately 461 yards (421 m) of Bulky Weight Yarn to make this project. Remember to save the leftover yarn from the second ball for next week’s hat pattern!

Scroll to the end of the post to get my free pattern!

I’ve always been a bit of a rock-hound… my parents and Uncle all studied geology in University – so fossil hunting and rock collecting has been a hobby of mine for as long as I can remember.

When you look into the metaphysical properties of Ametrine, it is described as having a strong healing energy; that it helps to enhance mental and spiritual clarity. I think I will have to have a look for some of this amethyst/citrine quartz the next time I visit the Rock Shop.

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Remember this project is just one of the three brand-new scarf patterns today!

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Ametrine Hooded Pocket Scarf Pattern

PIN this pattern for later here!
Create your project page on Ravelry here.

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Access the full written pattern in the blog post below.

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Ametrine Hooded Pocket Scarf

Supplies

• Yarn: Red Heart Gemstone Yarn. 7 oz (200 g) and 312 yds (285 m). 100% Acrylic. Bulky Weight Yarn [5]. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle. Tumble dry low. Do not iron. Do not bleach. 
• Colors: 2 skeins in Ametrine.
• Hook: 6 mm (J). I used this hook.
• Finished Project Yardage: Scarf: 10.3 oz (295 g) and 461 yds (421 m)
• Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker

Difficulty Level

Easy

Finished Size

Scarf length approximately 76 inches X 7 inches width

Hood height approximately 13 inches X 14 inches wide

Gauge

Approximately 3 rows per 2 inches and 4 sts per 2 inches

You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size, and amount of yarn used for your project will also be different.

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

beg – beginning

ch – chain

ch1sp – chain 1 space

dc – double crochet

R – row 

rem – remaining

rep – repeat

sc –  single crochet

sk – skip

sl st – slip stitch

st/sts – stitch/stitches

[] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

() – important notes AND sets of stitches to be worked within one stitch, or space

Notes:

• Initial ch 3 counts as 1 dc. This means you do not work an additional dc into the base of the stitch because that ch 3 is the stitch. 
• Since the ch 3 is counted as a st, we must remember to work into at the end of each row. If you are worried you might miss it, I recommend placing a stitch marker in the top of it so you will remember when you see the marker it needs a stitch. 
• If you want a wide pocket scarf, or a pocket shawl, simply continue working your Scarf dc rows instead of stopping after R10. As written the scarf will be 7 inches wide. If you are increasing the width of your scarf, you will need to adjust the hood width as well. 
• If you would like a hooded scarf without pockets, skip the pocket section. If you don’t want the hood, you can skip the hood section. 

Ametrine Hooded Pocket Scarf Pattern Instructions

This scarf is crocheted back and forth in rows. We begin making the scarf and then add the hoods and the pockets.

Scarf

Using your 6 mm (J) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: Ch 181, sk the first 3 chs (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each rem ch across, turn. [179 dc]

R2-R10: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st across, turn. [179 dc]

At the end of R10 finish off.

Hood

Place your scarf on a flat surface (remember you turned at the end of R10) and count over 63 sts and join in the next st. 

Using your 6 mm (J) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 52 sts, leave the rem sts unworked, turn. [53 dc]

Note: if you would like a smaller hood, you can omit rows from the repeat – this hood was designed to be oversized so omit 2 rows if you want it more fitted

R2-R9: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st across, turn. [53 dc]

At the end of R9, finish off leaving an 8-10 inch yarn tail for seaming.

Pockets (make 2)

Using your 6 mm (J) hook (or size required for gauge):

R1: (RS) Ch 18, sk the first 3 chs (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each rem ch across, turn. [16 dc]

R2-R10: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st across, turn. [16 dc]

R11: Ch 1, 1 sl st in each st across. Finish off. [16 sl st]

Finishing Instructions:

Place your scarf on a flat surface and fold the hood in half. 

Place your yarn on your yarn needle and whip stitch the back of the hood closed. Finish off and weave in end. 

Flip your scarf right side out.

Scarf Edging (and joining the pockets)

With your scarf on a flat surface with the RS facing out, place the pocket on the bottom edge of the first scarf end (see image below). 

With your 6 mm (J) hook (or size required for gauge):

Join with a (sl st, ch 1) in the bottom corner edge (see image below).  

Alternately join with a standing sc. 

Continuing to work through both layers:

R1: 1 sc in each st across the bottom of the pocket, to the corner. In the corner work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc). 

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TIP: Now lift the pocket slightly to look at the scarf beneath. You will see the stitches we need to work into (the pocket on top is the side edges of the stitches). 

You are going to be making 1 sc in each st all along the scarf edge. 

Now lower the pocket back on top of the scarf and line up the corner top corner with the 16th stitch on the scarf. 

If it makes it easier for you, you can pin the pocket in place lining up the top corner of the pocket to the 16th st along the side. 

This is to make the pockets look straight and the same size on both sides of the scarf.

Rotate your project to continue attaching the pocket.

Work 1 sc in each st (Tip: there will be 15 sts left for the pocket because we already made the 1 in the corner) across to where we added the hood.

See where the dc st is joined to the main scarf? We need to work neatly around this joining spot so it doesn’t pucker when we are done, so work 2 sc along the side of that first dc. 

Now work sc sts evenly around the hood to where it joins to the scarf on the other side; make sure to work 2 sc in the side of the last dc before rotating and continuing along the edge of the scarf toward the other pocket spot.

When you reach the 16th stitch from the end of the scarf, place your pocket on top of the scarf and continue working through both layers to the corner.

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For the corner work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc), rotate your work and crochet along the bottom edge to the next corner. Work (1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc). Rotate your work and continue working sc sts to attach the pocket, there will be 15 more to be worked after the corner.

Now continue to work along the scarf edge, 1 sc in each st to the opposite pocket. Line up the pocket to the 16th st (you already attached it on 2 sides so this should be easy. Work 16 sc to the corner (through the pocket and scarf) and ch 1. 

R2: 1 sl st in each st and ch1sp around. Finish off and weave in your ends.

TIP: the slip stitches are to add strength to the scarf and to decrease the stretch of the fabric that can happen with wear. The slip stitches should be the same size as the single crochet stitches – if yours seem to be too tight I suggest you use a large hook to help you correct your gauge OR finish off after R1 and do not add the slip stitch round.

Weave in any remaining ends.

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We hope you are crocheting along with us this year and I hope you have enjoyed the last 18 free crochet patterns!

Happy Crocheting 🙂

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