Dolly wants to go outside with Darla so I was asked to crochet her a Coat and Hat. The crocheted coat and hat will fit most 18″ dolls. The Coat for Dolly Pattern is relatively simple as it is worked in rows in one piece and then the sleeves are crocheted directly to the armholes on the coat itself.
This pattern fits (I have tried it on all 3 of these brands): My Life as Dolls, Our Generation 18 Inch Dolls and American Girl Dolls. The pattern is not affiliated or designed for any one single ‘brand’ and I honestly cannot recommend one brand over another as my children love each doll equally.
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Coat and Hat for Dolly
This simple to crochet doll coat is perfect for Dolly! Sized and shaped to fit an 18″ doll, the doll coat is crocheted using medium weight  yarn and a 5.5 mm (I) hook. The body of the coat is worked back and forth in rows and all in one piece. The sleeves are added directly to the coat by crocheting in the armhole stitches in rounds. This is a fun to crochet and a simple project to make for 18″ dolls. The hat is worked in rounds from the top-down and a brim similar to the edging on the coat has been added to the hat to create the set.
- Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver. Medium Weight  Yarn. No-Dye-Lot Solids: 7 oz (198 g) / 364 yds (333 m). 100% Acrylic.
- Hook: 5.5 mm (I)
- Finished Project Yardage (Coat): 126 yards / 115 m
- Finished Project Yardage (Hat): 30 yards / 27 m
- Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional), Snaps (optional) to fasten coat, sewing needle and sewing thread
Coat: 7 inches wide (flat surface folded to wear), approximately 16 inches wide (flat surface open); 8.5 inches tall; sleeve length: approximately 4.5 inches long and 2.5 inches wide (widest on flat surface)
Hat: 5.5 inches wide (flat surface); 4 inches tall; approximately 12 inches circumference
approximately 4 rows of sc per inch; 4 sc per inch and 3 dc per inch
approximately 2.75 hdc per inch; 2.5 rounds per inch
You can substitute any yarn and hook for this stitch pattern – just remember when you substitute if your gauge is different, the finished size of your project will also be different.
US Terminology used
BPdc – Back Post double crochet
BPhdc – Back Post half double crochet
BPsc – Back Post single crochet
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
FPdc – Front Post double crochet
FPhdc – Front Post half double crochet
FPsc – Front Post single crochet
R – row
RS – right side (pretty side of the project)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
st/sts – stitch/stitches
* – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated.
 – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches
Helpful Video Tutorials
- Coat: This project is worked in rows until you add the edging. The edging is worked in rounds around the outside edges. The sleeves are added to the left-over armholes stitches and they are worked in rounds.
- Hat: The hat is worked in rounds in one piece, from the top-down.
- Fits 18″ Dolls like American Girl, Our Generation and My Life as
- Ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as 1 dc.
- Count the ch 6 as 6 stitches.
- Ch 1 at the beginning of a row is not counted as a stitch.
Coat and Hat for Dolly Pattern Instructions
18 Inch Doll Clothes
R1: RS: Ch 23, 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook. 1 dc in each of the next 10 chs. 1 sc in each of the next 10 chs. Turn. 
R2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 
R3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 10 sts. 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. 
R4: Rep R2
R5: Rep R3
R6: Rep R2
R7: Rep R3
R8: Rep R2
R9: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 10 sts. 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 6, sk 6 sts, 1 sc in each of the last 2 sts. Turn. 
R10: Ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of the 6 ch (working through 2 of the loops for each ch), 1 sc in each of the next 13 sts. Turn. 
R11: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 10 sts. 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. 
R12: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 
R13 – R24: Rep R11 and R12 in order.
R25: Rep R11
R26: Ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, ch 6, sk 6 sts, 1 sc in each rem st across. Turn. 
R27: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 10 sts. 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts. 1 sc in each of the 6 ch (working through 2 of the loops for each ch), 1 sc in each of the last 2 sts. Turn. 
R28: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 
R29: Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 10 sts. 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. 
R30: Rep R28
R31: Rep R29
R32: Rep R28
R33: Rep R29
R34: Rep R28 do not finish off but remember to turn to make the right side of the project face you before you begin the Edging Section.
When we work the edging section we work around the outside edges of the finished vest, in rounds. There is no specific stitch count for this but please try to ensure you have an even number of stitches when you are finished (so divisible by 2). The final 2 rounds are worked in alternating front post and back post stitches.
Round 1: Work 1 round of single crochet stitches evenly around the outside of the vest. I worked 3 sc in each corner, 1 sc in each sc row end and 2 sc in each dc row end. Be sure to work 3 in each corner. If you are facing the vest as though it is being worn, you should be finishing at the bottom left corner. Remember to work 3 in that corner (I forgot my first time around!).
Round 2: Working up the front of the vest toward the collar, work 1 FPdc in the first st, 1 BPdc in the next st up to the corner 3 stitches. Switch to FPsc, and BPsc around the collar section only (so around the back of the neck and to the front of the best again. When you reach the front again, work your FPsc, BPsc for the corner 3 stitches and switch back to FPdc and BPdc to edge the remaining of the round.
You work all stitches using FPdc and BPdc except the collar behind the neck. Those are worked in FPsc and BPsc. Please see the image above. The green arrows show the area where we work the FP and BP sc stitches. The remainder of the edging is worked using FP and BP dc stitches.
Round 3: Repeat R2. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in any ends you have.
The sleeves are added to the leftover loops and 2 adjacent sc at the top (shoulder) and bottom (armpit) of the armhole section.
To create the sleeve, we will work 1 st into each of the 6 unworked sc (in the example from Row 8 they are in blue) we will place 1 stitch into each of the 2 sc that border the armhole, 1 st into the remaining loops of each of the 6 ch sts and 1 st into each of the 2 sc that border the armhole. I prefer starting in the base of the armhole to begin. Please follow the instructions in Round 1 below.
When I join, I use a standing single crochet stitch but you can substitute a slip stitch, ch 1 and then work 1 sc in the bottom-most unworked loop. Be sure you do not work into that slip stitch when you get back to it though or your sleeves will have 1 extra stitch in them.
Round 1: Join to the bottom-most unworked loop (see image above) with a standing sc. 1 sc in each of the next 2 loops. 1 dc in each of the next 3 loops. 2 dc in the next loop, 1 dc in each of the next 2 loops, 2 dc in the next loop. 1 dc in each of the next 3 loops, 1 sc in each of the next 3 loops. 
We are working in continuous rounds (no slip stitch to join is used). Please use a stitch marker of some sort to mark the first stitch of your round.
Round 2: 1 sc in each st around. 
Round 3: 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 12 sts, 1 sc in each of the last 3 sts. 
Round 4-9: Rep Round 2 and Round 3 in order
Round 10: Rep Round 2
Round 11: 1 FPsc in the first st, 1 BPsc in the next st. *1 FPsc in the next st, 1 BPsc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around.
Round 12: Rep Round 11. Finish off and weave in ends.
Repeat this section one more time for the other armhole, for the second sleeve.
After you have woven in any remaining ends you need to decide if you want to add buttons, ties (ribbon), or clasps to close the coat. Or if you would prefer you can let the coat hang freely. The post-stitch edging on the coat makes it easy to add buttons of different sizes for fastening, or you can use handy sew in snaps like I have added to Dolly’s coat and sew them on the inside of the front flap of the coat so they are hidden.
I used regular sewing thread and a sewing needle for these snaps.
You can see in the following photos where I hand stitched the two snaps in place. You may wish to add a third snap midway down the front.
- Dolly’s hat is worked in continuous rounds (no slip stitches or extra chains are used at the beginning of the rounds). Please use a stitch marker to mark your place.
- Additional Abbreviations: R – round; DMR – double magic ring; FPhdc – front post half double crochet; BPhdc – back post half double crochet
R1: DMR: 8 hdc. 
R2: 2 hdc in each st around. 
R3: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. 
R4: *2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts**. Rep from * to ** around. 
R5: 1 hdc in each st around. 
R6-9: Rep R5
R10: *1 FPhdc in the next st, 1 BPhdc in the next st**. Rep from * to ** around. 
R11-13: Rep R10. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends.
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The doll pictured today is an Our Generation Doll. She is available on amazon here: