Free Crochet Pattern
As with many of my patterns – my designs come from a need in my life, or in another’s. This mitten is my solution to a huge problem I experienced when going anywhere with my son last winter.
I find it very difficult to hold onto Drew’s hand when he is wearing a mitten – especially when I am also wearing a mitten. All last winter I went without a mitten – even in the -30 degree weather we experienced because I just did not feel like I could maintain a secure hold on him (he is so curious and active!). Let me tell you – my hand was FREEZING! and his wrist was too – because I had to hold somewhere and if I held his hand when he tried to pull away to look at something his mitten would slide off – so I had to hold his wrist with my bare hand…so his wrist was always a bit exposed to the cold…
My solution – because I refuse to have another winter with an ice cold hand -is this mitten – which allows Drew and I to hold hands – skin to skin – inside the warmth of a combined mitten.
When we don’t need to hold hands we both put our own mittens back on.
Warm, safe and secure –
I have to tell you I am very, very happy to have this mitten and I think you will be too 🙂
Mommy Hold My Hand Mitten Pattern
Hook: 4.00 mm hook and 6.00 mm hook
Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver or Red Heart with Love (shown in photos) – I have tested both 🙂
You will want a stitch marker for this project.
Gauge: 13 rows is 4″, 8 Xsc in 4″
Finished Measurements: 14″ from cuff to cuff, widest point is 5″
To fit: Toddler / small child and adult medium
Abbreviations: R – row / round, ch – chain, st – stitch, sts – stitches, blsc – back loop single crochet (i.e. single crochet in the back loop of the indicated stitch only), sc – single crochet, sk – skip, Xsc – crossed single crochet stitch, sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
Xsc – Crossed Single Crochet Stitch – skip 1 stitch, work 1 sc in the next stitch, return to the skipped stitch and work 1 sc in the skipped stitch
Use the 4.00 mm hook
You will be working this part ‘flat’.
R1: Leave an 8 inch tail of yarn and ch 9 sts, turn and beginning in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 blsc in each st across, ch 1, turn (8)
R2: 1 blsc in each st across, ch 1, turn (8)
R3-R21: repeat R2 (8)
R22: 1 blsc in each st across, do not finish off (8)
This cuff measures 4.5″ unstretched
Now, ch 1 and turn and work along the row ends working 1 sc in each row end across (22 sc)
Fold the cuff in half to line up the first sc and last sc you just worked in the previous row – to allow you to continue to work in continuous rounds (make it look like a cuff)
You will continue working in continuous rounds (no slip stitch to join or chain stitches to build up height are required).
Use 6.00 mm hook
R1: 1 sc in each st around (22)
R2: (sk 1 st, 1 sc in the next st; go back and work 1 sc in the sk st) repeat around (22) (11 Xsc st sets)
R3: (2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts) 5 times, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the last st (28)
R4: Repeat R2 (28) (14 Xsc st sets)
R5: 1 sc in each st around (28)
R6: repeat R2
R7: (2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts) 4 times (32)
R8: Repeat R2 (32) (16 Xsc st sets)
R9: (2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sts) 4 times (36)
R10: Repeat R2 (36) (18 Xsc st sets)
R11: 1 sc in each st around (36)
R12: Repeat R10
R13: Repeat R11
R14: Repeat R10
R15: Repeat R11
R16: Repeat R10
R17: Repeat R11
R18: Repeat R10
R19: 1 sc in each of the first 29 sts, ch 7, skip each of the next 6 sts, 1 sc in the next st, go back and work 1 sc in the last skipped st (38)
R20: (sk 1 st, 1 sc in the next st, go back and work 1 sc in the sk st) repeat 14 times; skip the next st, work the next sc into the ch 7 space, return to the skipped st and work 1 sc, work 6 sc around the chain 7, skip the next st, 1 sc in the next st, go back and work 1 sc in the sk st (38)
R21: (1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, sc2tog) 2 times (36)
R22: (sk 1 st, 1 sc in the next st, go back and work 1 sc in the sk st) repeat 18 tunes (36)
R23: (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog) 6 times (30)
R24: (sk 1 st, 1 sc in the next st, go back and work 1 sc in the sk st) repeat 15 times (30)
R25: (1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog) 5 times (25) and finish off
The cuff is worked flat
Use a 4.00 mm hook:
R1: Leave an 8″ tail, ch 15, beginning in the 2nd ch from the hook 1 blsc in each st across, ch 1, turn (14)
R2: 1 blsc in each st, ch 1, turn (14)
R3 – R37: repeat R2 (14)
R38: ch 1, turn to work along row ends, sc 36 times evenly across (36)
R39: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, (1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog) repeat 7 times, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog (26)
Switch to the 6.0 mm hook (J)
R40: 1 sc in each st across, finish off and weave in ends
Fold the cuff in half to to line up the first sc and last sc you just worked in the previous row with the right sides (‘the good side’) facing inwards – make it look like a cuff!
Whipstich the seam shut.
Now, you have a two options:
Option 1: turn the mitten inside out and align the mitten edge with the cuff edge and whipstitch them together finish off and weave in ends, turn your mitten right side out.
OR as I did because I liked the decorative edge
Option 2: turn the cuff right side out again and align the stitches with the mitten edge and work 1 sl st through both loops on the cuff and both loops on the mitt around (25), finish off and weave in ends
Note: when I said work the sl st through both loops – what I mean is work the sl st through the front and back loop of each sc of the cuff (R40 of Adult Cuff) and through the front and back loop of each sc of the mitten edge (R25 of mitten)
Now move to the thumb – if you want to add one 🙂
Use the 6.0 mm hook (J)
R1: Join your yarn with a single crochet stitch (Need Help? Refer to this tutorial – How to Join with A Single Crochet Stitch) to the corner of the thumb opening – into the st directly to the right of the stitches worked over the chain 6. Work 14 more sc around the thumb opening (evenly spaced) (15 total)
R2: Sl st to join and work 1 sc into the same first st, 1 sc in each of the next 12 sts, sc2tog in the last st (14 total not counting the sl st)
Now continue without the sl st join so use a stitch marker to mark your place!
R3: (skip the first st, 1 sc in the next st, now go back to the skipped st, 1 sc in the skipped st) repeat around 7 times (14)
R4: 1 sc in each of the next 14 sts (14)
R5: (skip the first st, 1 sc in the next st, now go back to the skipped st, 1 sc in the skipped st) repeat around 7 times (14)
R6: (sc2tog) 7 times (7)
R7: (skip the first st, 1 sc in the next st, now go back to the skipped st, 1 sc in the skipped st) 3 times, 1 sc in the last st (7)
R8: (sc2tog) 3 times, 1 sc in the last st (4)
Leave a long tail (at least 6 inches) for sewing in ends, finish off and turn the mitten inside out and weave the yarn through the remaining sts and pull tightly to cinch closed, weave in ends.
Note: When I say to weave the yarn through the remaining sts what I mean is – you have 4 sts at the end of the thumb left open take your yarn needle and insert it from front loop to back loop in the first st, from back loop to front loop in the next st, from front loop to back loop in the next st and from back loop to front loop in the last st. This weaving of the yarn back and forth through the stitches will allow you to close that hole nice and neat – when you pull on the yarn end.
Optionally you can make the same weaving of the yarn through only one loop. If you do this work the loop closest to the actual hole (so the back loop since the loop name is derived from its position to you!) and it will be a less bulky close.
Your mitten is done!
…and since Drew can be a bit difficult to photograph – (long sigh!) Darla volunteered to help me with a couple of photos to show you the mitt in use!